Zinc oil supplement

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No.
I’m taking the advice of a trusted engine builder and machinist that makes his entire living from high performance engines. I wouldn’t just abandon his opinions for some random guy in a forum.
yeah and i would as well if my engine was built buy a trusted engine builder.. they know the clearances they are the guys providng some kind of warrnanty why wouldn't ya

but my point is if you have a high zddp oil already adding more makes little sense
and it is easier just to buy a high zddp oil in the first place to avoid polluting the manufactueres good work...

basically avoid the 1 bottle good 2 bottles better 3 bottles etc situation you can have too much of a good thing.. you need the correct amount.

however i'm not going to ignore the advice of the builder.... i would want some piece of mind that if it all goes wrong I as owner am above criticism.

Dave
 
The product I have been using for the last 15 years has been discontinued.
What would you suggest to add zinc when I do my oil changes?
STP oil treatment which contains zinc. I have been using this for the last 25 years in both of my HP SB Mopars and I have had zero issues..
 
LOL. Been running 20w-50 Valvoline racing since the 70s. Not molasses or even close. I even run it in a 96 Neon and 2001 Cherokee, that both still run like new. Where do people get these wrong ideas?
Yep. Anyone who's pulled a drain plug on a hot engine full of 20W-50 isn't thinking about molasses.
The difference in viscosity between a grade 30 and grade 50 at 100°C is small, yet there is a difference in oil film thickness.
 
VR-1 Valvoline 10w-30 I buy 5 quarts from Summit Racing... Once a year fall oil change and a Wix filter. No Zinc additive added as it's already formulated with Zinc and they do not advise using any additives. It already has 1400 ppm Zinc and 1300 ppm Phosphorous (conventional formulation). Use it and forget it $8 a quart and it's cheaper than steel.
 
Chart on different rating

Oil cross reff.png
 
This chart was a favorite of mine. I mostly used it to show people that just because the number is higher for SAE grades of gear oil, they aren't thicker than the lower numbered motor oils. The higher numbers starting back then at 75W were chosen so folks would know it's a gear oil. The chart has been updated since then to show 0W, 5W, 8 & 60 grades of motor oil, and gear oils 250 and lighter than 75W. I forgot what those lighter ones are.
A lot more can be learned studying the chart. One thing is how close the different grades are at 100°C. To really understand that, it helps to know how the testing is done. But you can get an idea just looking at the viscosity numbers.

This is also a favorite graphic. It shows that despite the vast difference in viscosity in grades at cold temperature, when hot they are much closer.
Screenshot_20231008-210748.png
 
I use it when shopping for ISO machine oil. Most times a 10W30 or 15W40 will work for an ISO 68-100 in Chinese Mills/Lathes.
I'd use it to help someone who wanted a non-detergent motor oil. There was an older gent who had an unrestored Hupmobile. I asked the tech folks what to recommend. They said the hydraulic oil sold at the time was what he wanted. It had anti rust, wear and foam additives. It was only sold in ISO grades, so if they wanted SAE 30, using the chart, they got ISO 100. Believe it or not, after getting past the idea of using hydraulic oil for engine oil, the biggest roadblock to them buying it was the smallest container was a 5 gallon pail that cost about $10 in 1985.
 
I can’t remember where, but I found it online for $5.88 a quart, my local O’Reilly’s matched it.
O'Reilly matched an online price? I thought they only.matched brick and mortar store prices? I should have shown them those $22 ceramic brake pads I just bought online...
 
O'Reilly matched an online price? I thought they only.matched brick and mortar store prices? I should have shown them those $22 ceramic brake pads I just bought online...
It totally depends on management. O'Reilly's policy is they will match prices on any "legitimate" regular price, whether it's brick and mortar, or online. They won't match places like ebay and such, but they are supposed to match big online outfits like Rock Auto, Amazon and the like. Notice I said "supposed to". Money hungry management will refuse though. And as for oil prices? I've had a regional manager look me in the eye and say "we're not in the oil business, we don't match oil prices" and yet, it's right in their policy that they are supposed to match prices on anything. So it all depends on the type of management that's running a particular region of stores.
 

i wonder if these guys know what they are talking about?

As much as it pains me to say it, the Valvoline guy is spot on. While he addresses flat tappet camshaft engines, he doesn't mention the high PSI valve springs that many of us have. Those make me want more than the 800 ppm of ZDDP limited by the modern spec oils. For stockish 318s and slantys, the new stuff is fine.
 
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