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i was wondering the same. 67cuda had said at the begining he had a mild 273. but its been one heck of a learning session hasnt it!

the wavey snap ring was used as a cushion for reverse. using a flat snap ring will firm up the apply. a stall convertor eased the shock a little. rule of thumb is about .010 clearance per friction, so you need at least .050.

nice piece but should have included a spirol snap ring.

more springs in the front drum will help reduce 2-3 overlap. while i wouldnt run out and buy that rear support for a street car if you got it, use it.

it depends on the valve body or kit that you used. complete manual valve bodys dont have the govenor holes punched in the plate, while kits like transgo3 uses the oem plate.

isnt that spirol snap ring for you spring retainer? it shouldnt affect your stackup.

you dont have to worry, you are correct. i have the original ignitor #1381a and it states do not remove the ballast resister.

you know, the stuff we learnt 30 yrs ago still works very well today. i think its one of those retro things, what was old is now new again.

you need a small bolt pattern convertor. it would also help if you had the flexplate facing the other way.

if your not in a hurry to get this thing built there is a way to do it. the five disc drum, wider band and matching stator support was used behind the 360 in the cop cars in the late seventys. only for a few years they were non-lockup. so those stators are quite rare. but there are lots of drums...

sorry, you cant put five frictions in that drum. and you should be soaking the frictions in atf, not assembly lube.

iam not your brother.

duh... the direct drum is the front one. and to the op, you are working with a 5 disc drum arent you?

if you would like to continue just leaving the tranny in drive and running wot, you can tailor the shift point rpm to whatever you feel is safe for your combo. just pick a rpm number you want. by using a lighter govenor and a heavier 1-2 shift control spring and a little more line pressure, you...

you are correct. they all have a shuttle valve, but not all have the 1-2 control valve.

it might be worth while to have your tranny guy step up you 904 build now so you could use that 360 in the future.

deffinetly a custom build. i would be concerned with the crankshaft bolts marking the cover. is it just me, or are those two pictures of the same convertor?

you'll just have to examine all the linkage to see where the slop is. you wouldnt be the first person to delete the column and put in a floor shifter.

oh, iam sure you'll be into it again! just a part of racing. the more you can do yourself saves money for the other cool stuff you want.

torqueflite 8 is also known as 727. but this is what it comes down to. plans for the car. if your going to stay with the 318, put the 904 back in. if your going larger in the future, nows the time to upgrade to the 727.

yes, if you lookin from the seal side there is a slot at the top of the housing. align the bushing with that. it splashes lub to the yoke. so, did it go back together easier the second time?

unless yoou want to do engine work, just pull the tranny. drop the pan first to get most of the oil out of the way. when you have the tranny out, pull the convertor out quickly. you may then be able to see where it was leaking(sometimes). then stand the tranny on end in a bucket and secure it to...

do you need a sfi flexplate?

depending on year, chrysler used different rings on the inputshaft. the two on the stator wont go any where else and your not using any on the govenor. they probbly gave you a ring kit that seviced all years. if your not sure, fit the ring in its bore to be sure your using the right one...

those gear sets are around. a customer brought me some years ago to put in his drag only hemi cuda. he didnt like them and ended up taking them out. they might work for your appliction with the gear vender setup. but i dont know where they went or where he got them.

pressure plates are all the same. you adjust clearance with thicker snap rings. you can recut the snap ring groove in that three disc drum for more clutches. i dont think putting the vent over top the direct drum is a good idea. all the oil thrown of the drum may flood the vent.

sounds like you got it right. that little bit of drag could be just the weight of the convertor hanging down to the position of the pump gears. the real test is when the tranny is bolted to the engine, does the convertor still turn? then the convertor bolt pads should be about 1/4" or so away...

i havent seen steel planetarys in 727 either. its hard enough to find 4-pin aluminium that fit. moving the vent to the extension housing doesnt work if your still using the govenor. but irsh rt said he put it in the case! iam waiting to see how this works out.

in all my years of doing torqueflites, i have never seen sprag failure due to lack of lube. i have seen lots of inner races cut into the case though. for those we machine the case for a bearing. i got curious and went to the shop cause i have one apart. measured 3/4" in from the bore and that...