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Sounds like a "twofer" to me. Ya got 15 minutes of run time and reason to find another builder! I do hope the one you used will make it right for you. BC

I sure like the stance of that R car! Has it got a HEMI? Now THAT would be a sleeper! BC

It looks to me like the sump of blue pan that's in your '68 starts well back from the red one that's on the engine you're rebuilding. What's the clearance between the chassis parts and the front of the pan that's on it? Looks like you will need to swap the pan and the pickup to the rebuilt...

Sorry, but I just wanna giggle..... I'm guessing the points slipped. I'm not really dissin' points setups, they worked reasonably well for lots of folks for many years. Then something better came along. My first several cars and motorcycles had 'em, but why would any thinking person choose...

Whoops, forgot the link! Dodge Mopar Slant 6 Electronic Distributor Kit Fits 170 198 225 Slant Six | eBay BC

Mopar electronic ignition kit will get you past the points hassles and give you many miles of no ignition problems. This, or something similar will get you there. Knock off $300.00 from the price to cover parts, shipping and installation. Good luck! BC

So, take what ya learned and do the next one even BETTER! (and keep us posted, of course!) BC

X2 on the tow BAR brackets if you plan on anything but just an occasional pull. I've done flat towing with chain (and even rope!) but I was a lot younger then and a lot more cautious now! BC

I think it all comes down to your personal preference and how much work you're willin' to put into the project. I the three speed and linkage is working and you're OK driving it, the easiest thing would be to bolt the 225 to the tranny you have and be happy. Putting the 225& 904 into the van...

Didn't try too hard, IMHO! BC

Matthew, I typed this before I read your latest posts. I stand by what I wrote, but as you said: "What good is a spark if the valves won't move." The answer, of course, is NONE! First things first, grasshopper. All good up to that test, and it's a good one. Good spark, but no change in...

Lots of good info and help on slant six dot org. BC

Check the vacuum advance for the distributor. Leaky hose from carb to dist, bad diaphragm on distributor? Pull hose from carb and use a vacuum pump to see if it holds the cacuum. (or just suck on the carb end of the hose and stick your tongue over the end and see if it holds) That's just one...

There's a guy in the Slant Six Racing Association who's been working on one he had cast and machined himself for God only knows what kind of investment. He shows up at some races, then disappears again for months. Sounds like a fairy tale, doesn't it? Well, that's the story as I understand...

The short and sweet answer to the original poster's questions is YES. There were many changes, small & not so small to the Holley 1920 over the years. This link will take you to more carb info than I've ever seen in one place. http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33102 BC

I like the cable kickdown the folks at Bouchillon build. Maybe not as pretty as the Lokar, but functional. Their website has good instructions, but not for a /6. http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/tqinstructions Shouldn't be too tough to fab up whatever bits are needed. BC

The BBD should be OK on your /6, but there are differences between the /6 and the 318 V-8 ones. Really good info HERE: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=42041 I found the later posts more informative, but the whole thread should help you. I hope so. Just about everyone agrees that...

Lots of choices HERE: http://www.ebay.com/sch/6000/i.html?LH_ItemCondition=11&_nkw=1964+plymouth+valiant+pcv&_catref=1&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_sop=15&_rdc=2 It looks like you've had some leakage at the grommet. They get brittle and crack, but are available on that same page...

Congratulations! Plenty of advice here on giving it the best internal cleanup you can without pulling the engine. Carry on, and check back. BC

That's what I was wondering as well. You got the valve cover off and didn't find 7 quarts of oil. Where the heck did it go?? What I see in the pics you sent (and I'm no expert) looks like you've had some water in your oil, and I think I see antifreeze on a valve spring or two. Sometimes some...

The suspense is killin' me! I kinda like the idea of raising the rear of the car so when ya get stuff coming out of the valve cover at least SOME of it will drain in a limited area. It might be easier to raise the passenger side and put that wide pan under the starter. Hell, it's gonna be a...

Johnny Dart's list gets you into the engine rebuild area. All good stuff! The bits mentioned up to his post are all pretty much bolt-on. Some folks have opened up the head, raised compression and done the 2.5" exhaust and been happy with a well tuned one barrel carb. Decisions...

You'll need an air cleaner, and I think I read that the Holley 390 cfm that I have not yet installed will need some tuning/jet changes. Don't forget the bigger exhaust. Check Aggressive Ted's posts. Oh, WELCOME!! BC

Found this on the Dashman site: http://dashman.net/product.html?id=179 Contact 'em: Dash Manufacturing, LLC | 618 Madison Ave | Viroqua, WI 54665 | 608-637-7167 | [email protected] BC

One of the folks over on /6.org drills the threads out of the third hole (the most inboard one) and uses a longer bolt, lock washer and nut. Seems he's had bad luck with that stock method not wanting to come apart. I think stainless might be a better choice than grade 8, and don't forget the...

The car probably won't run any worse with duals, but they'll cost more for not much (if any) benefit. Look up Aggressive Ted on Slant6.org. He thoroughly explains how he built his single exhaust. If you really need the dual exhaust tips, the passenger side doesn't have to have a pipe...

Two different approaches, the first is really for earlier models than your '81, but has some good info: http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html This one is probably more relevant to your truck and it meets your wants pretty well...

Moderator - - - PLEASE!!! BC

When did you swap the Clifford for the Aussie intake? With no knowledge of flow characteristics, It's always seemed to me that the Aussie, with the center runners looping out of the plenum would equalize the charge to all cylinders better. That said, uneven charge to the middle cylinders...

I was having the same thought, 67. But then 73 clarified it so well! (NOT!!) Heck it's got to be the flux capacitor! And now, Sick_Six225 is figuring out about the leg pullin' that goes on here! BC