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CURIOUS....if the engine is already away from it and he has access to the entire inside of the bell housing...why does he have to remove the trans?.... everything he needs to get at is already exposed. The ONLY reason I can see that YOU MIGHT want to remove it is when you torque everything...

Unless that 318 is making 500+ hp and the tranny you just installed is built out tight....a stock flex will do ya just peachy...they are all over the place and one HELL of alot cheaper than the SFI......... bolts & holes need to be the same or it becomes a sheer point...that plate slips under...

flex plate bolts are 5 or 8 pointers? I thought they were 8 point I am not sure there is anything stronger you would want to use? OR you can get your TC tabs drilled & tapped...that only costs about $50...NOT including the labor to pull the tranny.... I am just NOT a fan of having too large...

PS...tons of guys swear by the 904's cuz they are lighter......I dont drag race my vehicle...I spent 6 years building it...not really into beating the crap out of it...but I will say this...I went with a big block innerds with a small block bell housing 727.....and I have driven well over 200...

it is likely that AAMCO has no idea what to do with an early mopar trans 904 727 or otherwise.......unless they have a really old guy OR a super gear head working there. YOU need to find a guy that KNOWS mopars...and get your car the hell away from those AAMCO guys ...that is just asking for...

OVEN CLEANER FROM THE DOLLAR STORE......set the trans in the hot sun let it get good & warm.......spray on the cheapo dollar store oven cleaner...( buy a few cans, they'er a dollar!) wait 10 - 15 spray it on again...another 10 - 15, repeat until you see the grease rolling down ( and IT WILL)...

Absolutly correct!!!! I have seen oil pans rust from the inside out ( typically on Fords ) on all brands. OIL does not prevent rust unless it is in direct contact... condensation has caused cylinder walls to rust albeit mildy for the first 30 years it does happen. Exposed steel with rust, it...

you cannot run your car with the yoke pushed all the way in!!! shaft needs a lil bit of movement or you could snap off your tail piece..... modify the drive shaft....I did mine, cost me $75...well worth it and far less expensive than a trans my 2 centavos

WHAT CHEVY??? I dint see that word in any post above...am I missing something?

ALso....if you can screw the treads on it is likely in there far enough to engage and register....if it is showing 40 then it is spinnin.....and unless your needle is bouncing up to 40 then back to zero chances are your connection is OK

Speedo's can be fixed but it typically aint cheep and it really needs to be done by a pro. speedo cables are all short behind the IP...very few come out more than an inch or so ( if that) the idea being you undo it from underneath before you remove the IP.....IN assy they are put into the car...

TYPE F CAN BE EASILY FOUND AND PURCHASED in 28 of the 30 parts stores within 30 miles of me....... HELL MEIJER has it!!! Where are you getting its obsolete?

WELLL not all that "old school" the materials used in todays rebuild kits are anything but better then the originals. NOTHING in todays kits is as robust as it used to be...I have seen the internal build specs on both and have inspected them after specific use and I can attest that the newer...

depending on which way you go....why not install a complete mopar automatic console & shifter from a 4/5/6 Barracuda ? it would essentially appear stock, can be used with a reverse valve body or regular valve body. if properly installed can be used with either 904 or 727 and does not look like...

Go ahead and replace it with the three poster....one is the ground for the starter relay the other two controll the reverse lights.....if the threads match you can use either....if you want NEW United auto parts roseville Michigan or Roseville C/P also in roseville or pretty much any junk yard I...

DOES an 8.25 yoke fit in a 904? do the splines match up? may want to check that before you start cutting/welding

I am pretty sure you cannot do it like that without the use of CAD....so do it the old fashioned way measure from the rear tip of the tranny to the center of the ujoint...typically the flat that the bolts go into and subtract an inch or even 1.5 inches and you will be OK......

it balanced ok in assy

OKmy most recent 340 is a Frankenstein.... parts from all over U heads from here 69 block from there...rod & pistons from wherever..... all went together just peachy...balanced out OK..... got it runnin no problemo.... hits 1500 rpm, worlds most powerful vibrator!! I am thinkin that I may...

Er ahhh this is kinda like comparing Apples to Zeppelins....kinda need to include what you are doing with the car/gears you are running...... street/strip 355, 373, 391, 410 Strip only 410 & up........ some guys dont mind revving 3500/4000 + on the highway....to me that spells short engine...

pretty sure they are both the same inside one pin & three pin, should be "swappable"

I agree MOPER & Stroker.....especially about the factory plate takin serious abuse without so much as a wrinkle..... I have also bolted 727 small block bells to just about everything small block without so much as a mouse fart..... I have swapped torq Conv from trucks, cabs, and even from after...

OK...here is the deal... bought a 66 & restored it to BOND with the girlfriends 19 yr old son....he spent 4 days working on it and joined the ARMY...on one hand he is an idiot ( joining during a war is noble but stupid) on the other I am kinda proud of him...he was kinda wimpy and that was a...

OK its your call....I dont know anything about 8.25's pos or neg, I know 7.25's are essentially junk and 8.75's came std in 340' 360' 383 & some 440's the rest of the 440's and the hemi got the 9.25 Dana.......I was talking about the 8.75 not the 8.25...I have no idea how that rear end will...

OK there are a few over zelous folks giving costly advice....if you are a casual cruiser and just want some pep go find an 8 3/4 with a 355 sure grip ( posi) for an A body...there are gobs of them out there and I think they repop them....a standard rebuild/gear swap is around $600 and they bolt...

AMIGO...You are NOT STUPID!!! first off you attempted and completed repairs that were clearly outside your skill set then & your comfort zone.....and admirable Attribute! You followed instructions ( which most mechanics have to learn to do after the do it their way first....= experience) and the...