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Agreed.... very well stated, X2!!

The brake booster is only vacuum assisted when the engine is in the running mode. When the engine is off, there won't be any vacuum left in the booster, basically like a household vacuum work's. Hope this help's you some.

I checked at NAPA about 2 yrs ago, and they said nothing was available as a stock replacement. You could try Rock Auto, but don't know if you will do any good. I would say, look in the Hemmings Motor News under "Services Offered" and see about a rebuilder like Booster Dewey, it will probably be...

NAPA auto parts sells them, I just don't know the part number. I've got it written down here somewhere on my messy desk. Good luck.

Have you checked the star adjuster on the brake shoes, to make certain it is screwed together all the way? I have seen a few times, that brake shoe linings are sometimes a little thicker than usual (different manufacturers) which will cause issues with the drum wanting to fit over the shoes...

This is the best way to cut the heads off the pins......... but also remove the two bolts that hold the wheel cylinder in place, as it helps to remove as many pieces of brake hardware, to give you that little extra clearance to remove the drum. Like a previous poster said, you can try and...

X2.......... the bleeders have to be facing to the highest point, of the brake system.

I would say.......... it is possible that the internal valving, could be different, but I'm not one to say, because I don't know. Like I said before, a Factory Service Manual could be your best friend. Good luck!

The two prop valves do look exactly the same.......... either one should work. I do remember reading somewhere on a mopar site, could have been here on FABO, that a person had mentioned that after 1974 on A-body cars, the factory went to the cast iron valve block, don't know how true the story...

When I called a month or so ago, on the rear drums for 10x1 3/4 wide rear brakes, the BD60123 was the part number I was given, so they should be the correct small bolt drum's, for the rearend you have.

You guy's are correct in post's #8,9,12, and that sound's exactly like where the problem is. You guy's are doing a great job diagnosing this person's brake problem.

It's probably has a stuck valve (or valving) in the block, and is keeping the brake light on, or your losing pressure somewhere in the system. Are you certain you have the adjustable rod deep enough into the piston pocket? The best way I have found, is to use vernier caliper's, so you can...

What Demon 408 said is correct........ it should look like the one all the way to the right, ( lower portion of the valve look's like texas). From my understanding, Mopar had two different Disc/Drum combo valve's, one was made by Kelsey Haye's, can't remember who made the other type, but either...

I call it the split block..... down on the frame, but yes you can buy them new from Inline Tube, in Detroit, Mich. don't know what they cost, but they are available. We have them used, if you need it.

If your viewing it from sitting behind the steering wheel, it would go to the right side, or on the accelerator pedal side. Hope this help's.

Yes....... Dot 3 is what you will need, and it is certainly possible that air has entered into the system, if you can see no fluid in the main hole, where the master cylinder piston is.

If all the suggestion's Cudamark is talking about........ and yes, there all great idea's Mark, if all falls through and does not work, try this.......year's ago an ole boy I know ( working on 66 t-bird front caliper's that were froze) told me to remove the dust boot's with a sharp knife and...

I've got a set of these brake's, and they come from a Cordoba with a 360/ 727 combo. I thought all of the Cordoba's had 11.75 rotor's installed from the factory? I also read somewhere that just the factory BB car's came with the bigger rotor. Could any of you fellas get me updated on this, as...

You are not using the original 65 Dart split block are you? If you are somehow, I don't know how because there is only 1 port in the top of it for a single master cylinder line. You need a split block from a 67 and up with 4 wheel manual brake's, could be from an A or B body car with 4 wheel...

Is the dual port master cyl. for 4-wheel drum brake's? On a 4 wheel drum brake master cylinder, both of the fluid resevior's will be of equal capacity. What I'm saying is both resevoir's will hold the same amount of fluid. If you have large/small resevoir master cylinder, that would be a...

Try taking the complete unit off, hub and drum....... Stans got it right, do that first, then proceed with taking the whole unit off. Good Luck.

X2...... I agree with mopardude318, NAPA is usually where we buy most all of are part's, and the last time I was there they said they only carry the TOP OF THE LINE WHEEL CYLINDER'S ANYMORE WHICH IS THE ( UNITED BRAND) Made in USA. My cost on some for a mopar, was like 10.00 ea. or less can't...

I should have a good pair if daredevil don't....... Are they 9 or 10 " inch hub's as I'm not familiar with any differences between the two.

Sounds to me like your doing everything right..... PB blaster is real good as I use it around my shop quite a bit. What has probably happened is the car has sat for a longtime somewhere and the heat and possible weather conditions have pushed the wheel cyl pucks out of their bore and made...

When using dot 5 slicone fluid you have to use all new fresh components when using this fluid or rebuild the components with all new rubber parts and hoses. Have used this stuff on some cars that we have restored. Hope this clears things up. Good Luck.

The dual piston caliper's last year was 1972..... then they went to the single piston caliper's in 73. As for interchange from dual to single piston, I'm not sure on that. Good Luck