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I got the A-body disc spindles from Dr Diff. Anyone have experience with his Stage 2 or Stage 3 kit? Is there a noticeable difference between the 2. I'll be using a 17" wheel on my Barracuda so the 13" rotors would "fill" the wheel better than the 11.75" rotor, But are the 4 piston Wilwood...

The Guy on the chat on their website said that the Spindles and the upper control arms are 73-74 B-body.

I missed that. Or I just figured they were the same kit that is on Wilwood's sight.

I like the 4 piston calipers in this kit. Also the rotors are 1.007" thick, that is one downside to the Wilwood kit. There rotors are only 0.81" thick.

Is there a difference between the Disc brake spindles and the upper control arm on the 73-74 B-body vs the 73-76 A-body disc spindles? I'm looking at the Disc brake conversion kit for an A-body from Master Power Brakes and there kit comes with B-body spindles and upper control arms. I already...

I don't think the strut rod is actually bending in the video, I think the movement is so slight and the pivot being all the way by the nut on the K-member its hard to see the nut moving. The extra slop in the sway bar bushing is more noticeable while its moving and you can see a little flex on...

I have seen a couple of threads on here about people complaining about the poly lower control arm bushing and the Lower control arm moving around on the pin. I didn't understand how they could have a problem it shouldn't go anywhere. The lower control arm can't move forward because of the...

I'm keep going back and forth with the strut rod bushings and even the adjustable strut rods that have solid bushings like pst adjustable strut rods. I am happy with the rest of the bushings I have picked out for the front suspension. I'm getting FFI upper control arms with poly bushings, and...

I couldn't do that myself, I would have to find someone that could weld on new spring perches.

I was taking some measurements on the truck today. To get the truck to sit level the rear would have to drop 4". The leaf springs aren't symmetrical like I thought, but they aren't the same as the muscle car springs either. The front segment is 24" long and the rear segment is 28" long. I...

I know not an a body, but I think there are more people who would have an idea of how to set up the rear even thought its a truck. The front coil springs have sagged a bit over the years, it was originally a small block truck, but my grandfather had put a 440 in it. Truck has a 383 in it now...

I'm getting most of the suspension parts from Firm Feel. So I can get most of the parts I need in one of there packages and save money. But I don't want my suspension to squeak. So if the Urethane bushing from Firm Feel make noise I would get the Poly ones from PST that I know don't squeak.

Anyone using Firm Feel's Urethane bushings? Do they squeak? I'm debating between Firm Feel's Urethane kit and PST's polygraphite kit?

Thanks, for the input. You answered a lot of the questions I had. I wanted to keep the torsion bars, I don't see any benefit going to coil overs. I like the idea of keeping the smaller tie rod ends but with the solid sleeves. It will help keeping the unsprung weight down compared to going to...

The car is my 1976 Duster, going to be replacing the tired 360 that is in it with a high revving 318. Car is a 4 speed, pulled the original 833OD and replaced it with a 833 form a 1968 Barracuda. Manual Steering, Manual Brakes. I'll be lowering the front of the car 1" by turning the Torsion...

Firm Feel makes a quad shock kit that is supposed to eliminate wheel hop under acceleration and braking. Same kit fits any rear wheel drive mopar, so doesn't matter what one you look up. Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering Also the axle location on the leaves are different between cars and...

Should be a section in your FSM on how to rebuild it. Not to difficult I did one for my '85 Ram and I'll be doing one for my '68 Barracuda soon. There isn't to much to replace, just a bearing at the bottom of the column and, the turn signal switch since your in there.

I was looking at front end rebuild kits today from PST. Seems like you can get everything on that list that was posted for a couple of bucks cheaper with the PST kit. Just curious as why? Something wrong with PST?

I was just wondering, cause I was going to have mine sent to Firm Feel for a rebuild. From what I hear there rebuilds and upgrade steering boxes are a good quality. I was curious how a rebuilt FFI box stacks up against a new Flamming River box.

Who rebuilt your factory box?

I was looking over the installation instructions for Hotchkis sway bars. They didn't mention if the factory bracket on the lower control arm can be used or if it needs to be ground off and their bracket welded on. Looks like FFI bars will use the factory brackets.

Is this a big block power steering bracket?

autoxcuda, what have you done to your barracuda to stiffen it up? What would benefit more lighten the car as much as possible or achieve as close to 50/50 weight distribution as possible? Cause I could use fiberglass bumpers front and rear, hood and deck lid, etc. But would it be better to...

So I decided to build an autocross car. Been thinking about it for a while and decided to start planning the build. Think it would be fun to take out a classic car for some track time on a road course. I want to keep the stock type suspension, aftermarket control arms etc. but keeping torsion...

I think I'm going to try Rubber in the Duster and when I get to the Barracuda I'll try Poly.

I want to improve the handling, I want it to handle better than it did 38 years ago when it was new. I'm going to be putting on torque boxes, frame connectors, welding up K-member and the Firm Feel steering box support. I want it to handle better that is why I considered the polygraphite...

For those of you that are familiar with using and driving a car with a polygraphite suspension, is it worth the extra cost? Would you do it again? I live in PA and our roads aren't the best. So lots of bumps, cracks and potholes in the roads. I use the car as a daily driver and take it to...

To minimize or eliminate bumpsteer, the center link should be parallel with the ground. Because the wheel travels in an arc, the tie rods that go to the wheel need to travel in the same arc ideally.

On my '76 Duster, the car has a little bit of bump steer and I would like to fix this. I have a old book "Chrysler Performance Upgrades", there is a section showing a procedure to fix bump steer in these cars. Basically describes a trial and error process, that involves either adding spacers...

Yea that is what it was figuring that just using J bars wouldn't work so well. Thanks for the help.