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What cracked said, ya got a big old vacuum leak it's either that or you've just re-wrote one of the basic laws of Physics.:D

If this is the one here ya go. http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/brake/1.html

Gentleman, and you know who you are, my finger is poised directly above the delete button and another one is above the infraction button so move along quietly.

I've used these guys. http://www.r1concepts.com/

These guys want 75$ for reconditioned. http://calipersonline.com/compact1965-72.aspx Talk to Leanna, she's our resident powder coating guru. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/member.php?u=641 http://phoenixspecialtycoatings.com/

I like the KH brakes and even prefer them over the single piston design when you've got non-power brakes. The design of the KH brakes are superior, IMO, to the single piston (newer) brake systems because you've got the same number of pistons on each side of the rotor sharing (if they're not...

It's never that easy since you also have to change the hubs for ones that are also patterned for LBP.

Adjust your front right brake up, it ain't doing it's job. Adjust up to the point where you can just feel them dragging, with wheel off the ground of course.

I just bought a couple of 11", 5 x 4" rotors off these guys. http://www.r1concepts.com/dodge-dart-1971-fdc.htm

To be honest I've never entertained the idea of rear discs and A or B bodies, never had trouble with the big drums, but if I was I'd be looking at the Wilwood brakes which could yes "break the bank".

Before you do, remove the caliper and see if you've got any side (in and out) movement in the axle, the sound you're hearing could be the green bearings side loading. When you apply the brakes the piston pushes the disc, therefore the axle, out till it meets the outer pad (not much but it does)...

I'm using the K/hayes disc up front with 10" drums, SBP at all 4 corners and a BB and do not have any problems and yes it's been down the strip a few times. This is the first I've heard of overheating problems with SBP wheels and can only wonder if the Dodge and Plymouth engineers figured on...

If the peddle is going slowly to the floor and you're sure ya got the air out of the system then your master cylinder piston is bypassing. IMHO Terry

Yes, if the proportioning valve sees pressure in one circuit but not the other (front or rear brake circuit) when you press the brake pedal a little switch makes contact in the valve and lights a brake warning light on the dash. Terry

I would use the "new" races that came with the "new" bearings, you know their lineage. Terry

Had to go back to a 71 swinger 340 but I think this is what you want. Terry...

yes, my 71 has SBP manual discs original from the factory. Terry

http://www.calipersonline.com/ http://www.brakewarehouse.com/brake_calipers.asp#brake_calipers Terry

Talk to these guys. http://www.r1concepts.com/index.php and these guys...

They should be single piston, have a look at the caliper. Terry

You can also talk to these guys...

This is a good one, lets bump her. You could also talk to these guys for the rotors. http://store.r1concepts.com/Items/Item.aspx?SKU=emf03088%20-%20121.63005&caSKU=emf03088%20-%20121.63005&caTitle=DODGE%20DART%20DEMON%2071-72%20Brake%20Rotors%20-%20E-Line%20-%20Front Terry

Try these guys http://www.calipersonline.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=254 Or these guys http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?cat=A terry

All good ideas, going to do the same this winter if it ever warms up in my garage. Terry

These guys sell the discs. http://www.r1concepts.com/index.php

They're stock, originally my Demon came with a /6 and it's got the kelsey hayes disc, non power, and they work just fine with a BB. Ya just got to watch your following distances behind other vehicles. You can shop around and still find discs, calipers and shoes out there. Terry

Okay so we're talking about the valve at the back end. Disconnect it from the lines and have a look at it. I've seen some that employ an orifice that limits the speed that the fluid can travel to the brake cylinders. Either way make sure it ain't plugged. P.S. I've bleed my share of brake...

It helps to have the car running only by making the brake pedal easier to push down. It sounds like the spool valve (if that proportioning valve is using one) is stuck, the ports in the valve could also be blocked. Also if the master cylinder brake rod is not coming back far enough it won't open...

Not cheap, http://www.calipersonline.com/ terry

Google it and see who distributes it in the states.