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I got no problem keeping this thread running that is until certain members want to make comments like the one quoted below. """"""It's a worthwhile topic of discussion even though I think the bed wetting handwringing nannies out there need to dial it back on worrying about what other people...

Yup seen it alot over the years, old fuel turns the inside of the hose to muck and swells from the inside out. I know that you can get Ethanol compatible fuel line today, bought a few feet of it for my Merc outboard. Said right on it made for ethanol fuels. Probably reinforced Viton rubber.

Excellent choice Sir Mod. :tard:that's me trying to read the last page, I need a drink after that.

God, you would have them wouldn't ya.:pirate:

There you go, I learned something new today.:thumrigh:

Porosity maybe???

Kernel you're just plain mean, I understand now, you threw that idea out there hopeing a certain someone would run with it. That's just dirty.[-X[-X:prayer: I bow in your presense.:prayer::prayer: I better get off here or I'll catch it from the "boss". Carry on.:thumrigh:

Quote: I think you're on to something here, I never thought of it and it makes perfect sense in this scenario. The problem does seem to be inherited. Thank you Kernal. Holy crap : Exhaust Flow Resonance I've been troubleshooting this Pig Iron for 40 yrs and have never once considered...

Is it cold enough that the carb could have been icing up. Grab a little bottle of that methanol that you dump in the fuel tank next time.

Jesus Stroker cool your jets, Moparkid asked if windage trays were a good idea and I replied that they were, hell I'd put trays in everything if I could. He didn't ask where he could find a windage tray for a /6 and if he had I wouldn't have been able to say.

Yes to the windage tray and yes to pan baffles. Crank scrapers, IMO, are more suited to when you're trying to wring every last scrap of power out of the engine by minimizing parasitic losses eg. sticky oil.

Yup, used the rope trick a time or 2 myself, just keep packing her in.

Hey Dave, yup had a great holiday for 8 weeks at the lake (just me and the hound for 4 or them), we vegetated hard. Just got out of the garage after installing some more goodies on the Demon. How was your summer. PM me.

Hell Britdart why limit yourself to a small block, go for the throat and put some "big iron" in there. Whatever it is enjoy it, now go roast those tires.:burnout:

Quote: Some people make the effort to figure these things out. Some people don't. They coast on the efforts of others. You're forgeting those of us that prefer to "get to the point" after analyising the problem then issuing the statement. Also, "third order harmonics", where did that come...

And some can't survive psychologically unless they're doing both!!!!!!!!!!!! Sad My position is. This is a plastic drive gear for god sake, figure it out and get on with it. I've seen less analysis on complicated subjects such as strokers.

Grumpus beat me to it, I was going to say to install the triangular washers with the cupped side facing ourwards and yes to measuring the thickness of the flanges to make sure they're very close to each other.

You sure, accelerator pumps are usually on the bottom of the carb, you talking maybe the bowl vent? Terry

Whether it's the zinc component or the phosphorus, Hughes Engines says it's the Zinc, that is the anti wear component doesn't matter a hill of beans because both find their way into the oil using one additive, ZDDP. The point of this thread is the reductions of the package in oils being sold...

Are you sure that Rotella T has a maximum of 800 ppm of phosphorus? I was told by a "person" with Shell at the Scotford Refinery that the ZDDP package currently in all the Rotella T oils will be backed down to 800 PPM by the end of this year certainly by middle of 2010. All the refineries in...

Yes, very nice, but what was left out of the articles is the EPA mandated changes to these CI-4 and CJ-4 oils in the U.S.. That being that to allow the catylitic converters in heavy diesel trucks to survive, the ZDDP package must not exceed 800 PPM. Seems that the engine manufactorers have...

Quote, i dn't know about u but its not enough for me to just say it will be fine. And that's why 1 put in one small bottle of EOS at every oil change, just to be safe. The engine doesn't have a catylitic converter or O2 sensor so I don't care. Last year I talked to the oil companies that...

I caution everyone not to get caught up in the ZDDP oil discussion because unless you're a Petroleum Chemist there's a big pile of disinformation floating around the internet especially as it pertains to oil classifications. The simple truth is that engine builders such as Hughes recommends a...

10W-30 should be just fine. If you're running a ton of HP then 20W-50 Terry

Valvoline VR-1 and 1/2 bottle of EOS every oil change. Terry

Yes the more squished the smaller the number. The only other way is to physically measure the rod journal with an outside mic and assemble the con rod and measure it with an inside mic. I usually use the same outside mic to measure what I get with the inside mic so your chance of screwup is...

Hey Rob, you're just going to have to start at the plugs and work your way backwards. Check the wire between the coil and distributor first then the wiring going to the distributor from the harness for breaks and continuity. Check the resistance across the ballast resistor should be around 1 ohm...

Actually If you chase that 4.0 to it's original manufactorer you'll find that International was it and yea it was a dam good engine. I'm not sure about the 3.8 or 4.2 tho. Terry

Pagilman did you ever see the movie "Stripes" with Bill Murray. One of his lines was, blew up sir-blew up real good. Sorry to say but what you probably got there is a bad rod bearing getting ready to blow up "real good". :sad: