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That's a forged crank engine in the picture, look at the vibration dampener. I went with the Hughes roller rockers, dead nuts on 1.5 (the stock stamped are all over the place) and you have to go with custom length push rods which Hughes can supply. Don't go over 10to1 comp. with pump gas and...

Interesting, leak down effecting actual valve opening amounts and also valve timing maybe eh.

More info please eg. what's it going in, what carb sits on top, what engine mounts did you use? Typically even with an inverted base air cleaner and 2" tall element you ain't talking more than a couple of inches if any. Terry

I've gone both ways and had better luck and overall performance using the Performer RPM but mostly because trying to tune the single plane can be a PITA. I guess that what it comes down to is tunability and the tuners ability. Single planes can induce some real nasty off idle stumbles (when you...

I know where there's a like new 187 just south of Calgary, and it's 5 liters with 2 gaskets and a milodon windage tray.

I've run all 3 style pumps and my biggest concern was when using the HP or HV pumps you were always up against the oil pressure relief when the oil/engine were cold. This is fine if the valve works fine but if it fails once that 80PSI oil pressure will be at 120-150 which could rupture the...

I go with 3/4" to 1" blade to core clearance and that's with a shroud (must have) with the BB's. Also check for clearance between inner blade edges and lower rad hose as it goes up into the pump.

Have you checked the timing chain for stretch?

Yes, I agree that .002-.003 of cylinder taper, thru the length of the bore will keep the rings working and supposedly keep from carbon build up. But I've seen a few BB's with as much as .080 in the last 2 inch of top travel. Rings aren't going to like that. IMO

If by bevil you mean cylinder taper at the top of the ring travel then have it measured to determine if overboring for new pistons will remove the taper. To much taper will work the crap out of the new piston rings and cause them to loose seal and eventually just quit. At least that's my opinion.

The picture in this article makes it obvious whether you've got a cast of forged crank, assuming that the people who last did the engine installed the correct balancer. Also can't find a listing for a cast 440 crank before 1972 (all forged up till then) which simply could mean that someone...

The 413 is a good choice but since it's a RB it is the highest when compared to a 383/400 and yes the Z bars an SOB. All things considered a stroked 400would be the direction I'll take next time. A friend took the time to build from scratch an hydraulic clutch but can't remember what he...

She's you're engine Gerry, as long as you understand that that stock manifold is a huge cork to the system. 383's love to rev out and get there fast, it's a big block that thinks it's a small block. Terry

It will love you for putting on a 750 Holley or Quick Fuel and it will be in heaven if you put either on top of Edelbrock RPM Performer Intake. Those 2 additions will net you approx. 50 or more HP.

I got a 383 Weiand Team G I'll sell ya. PM Me

RPM performer, will loose slightly to the M1 and torker at the top end (couple hundred RPM) but smoke em on the bottom also be easier to tune. Nice build BTW.

Yup its a 383 with 906 heads.

Going that far it makes no sense in not completeing the combo with roller rockers. Here's a set of Hughes and set up correctly there are no issues.

2206159 is forged.

There is no argument as far as I'm concerned. Any of the big blocks require headers at 475 or more HP, why would you add a big assed cork to the engine, and a minumum 2 1/2" exhaust system. A B Body sleeper is next for me with a stoked 400 or 500 (probably 400) and long tubed headers with 3"...

Whoa, you want to use a column shifter on a RB converted Swinger I gotto see this.

You're going to have to figure out your distributor and put in a new max mechanical advance stop, shoot for 35-36.

Are you getting your 50 with the vacuum hooked up if so disconnect and plug the line, that should back you down to around 35-36, then see if she still pings.

What's your initial with the vacuum disconnected and plugged and engine at 800 idle.

5-700 depending on finish, ask around here, there's always a set come up for sale every one or 2 months.

Ditto.!!!!!!!!!!!

On the street you won't notice a difference (schumacher are supposed to be good for 500) unless you plan on spinning her at 6500 plus but I am a little scepticle that the 13-1 compression is going to like the street. You're biggest worry is going to be cooling so aluminum rad and shrouded...

And what intake and carb.

That's totally dependent on whether or not the Schmacher's now become the "cork" in the system, ie. if you're running high flowing heads you could see a lose at the top end. Going to need some more info on your engine, exhaust system and whether you 1/4 mile it.

First thing that needs to be said is that 383's love to rev, maybe not as high as a good flowing 340 but I take mine and the ones before it to 6200 all the time and that's where they perform. A 383 is not a lugging engine thats what 440/motorhome engines are for and sadly this 383 has been built...