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My Duster used to just quit. It had a VERY sketchy connection in the bulkhead connector. I found it when I tore the car down. No problems anymore - I replaced the whole works with a Painless kit and eliminated the bulkhead connector.

12V at the alternator sounds like a bad alternator. Take it in to the auto parts store and have them test it.

Another ballast burned up maybe? Something wired wrong?

Again, that's the same stuff Waytek sells. Works great and you can add or repair wires easily.

Ditto. Looks nicer than the convoluted tubing. Oh.. you can get it quite a bit cheaper, though, from an electronic supplier like Waytek. http://order.waytekwire.com/products2/M50/380/200/200/1/Black%20Expandable%20Sleeving/Expandable%20Sleeving/Wire%20Coverings/

If you get involved with wiring, these might help: http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/31031/PACKARD%2056%20SERIES%20%20%20FEMALE/ http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/32030/PACKARD%2056%20SERIES%20%20MALE%20%2012%20GA/ You can take new wiring, solder on these ends, and...

I agree with no connector. My duster years ago would stop running for no apparent reason. When I disassembled the car, I found out that one of the wire connectors had slid back in the plastic bulkhead connector and was barely making contact. I rewired EVERYTHING with a Painless kit. I have all...

I have a Stewart Warner. Easy hook up. Sender is a separate piece with all of these. With the SW, you have to turn the car off, hold in the trip button, and power on to enter calibration mode. That means mile markers on the Interstate won't work, unless I stop on the freeway. I plan to go out...

Here it is months later, and (with help from Tadjou) I find the solution to my problem. Thanks for helping out your fellow man.

You can't find the wires, or you can't find where the switch is? The switch is on the main trans case, in back of the side cover and in front of the speedo pinion. Could be that the electrical spades are busted off... Brewers has new ones. www.brewersperformance.com

The search function brings up all kinds of useful stuff. Thanks!

I will only use mechanical oil pressure gauges. Try one of each. Let the engine idle, then give it a couple blips of the throttle and watch how fast the mech gauge responds vs. electrical. Thanks for the plumbing tip, redfastback. A braided line would give me peace of mind. I'll go that route...

I will only use mechanical oil pressure gauges. Try one of each. Let the engine idle, then give it a couple blips of the throttle and watch how fast the mech gauge responds vs. electrical. Thanks for the plumbing tip, redfastback. A braided line would give me peace of mind. I'll go that route...

Pretty sure your neutral safety switch should plug into one of the lugs on your solenoid.