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SMALL BOLT PATTERN ROTORS, for the 73-76 A body cars? 6 cylinder Drum brake car? Why in the world would you want anything like that? I haven't heard of that at all, till you just brought it up. Ok then, who has them, who do you get them from? Not to go off track, from the original posters...

Thank's :thankyou: I have one of those brackets, and know what it is, as i have it labeled as such. :thumbsup:

I dug out some more parts, buried deep in the storage shelving, in the garage, and haven't a clew anymore what they are for. Anyone looking at the picture know what they are for, that i saved for some reason or other? Thank's a lot.

Think i have what your looking for, but not certain. Just sent you a pm, with two pictures. Check your in box. Jim V. hemi71x

I never had a sway bar for any of the body styles, that wasn't your favorite color of "rust." As far as i know they were left natural finish on the metal, then left up to mother nature to do her thing with the metal.

At $680.00 not for the average homeowner, enthusiast tool, in his toolbox. But sure makes life easier, doing that job.

I need a clear picture of the spindles with the rotors, and dust shields removed from them. What's the center to center, bolt hole spacing of the ball joints to the spindle? Another way to help us out here, is to measure spacing for the caliper mount brackets. If the spacing is 3.125 they are...

Look at where the rubber "bump stop" location is on the UCA. One way to tell left and right UCA's. The bump stop indentation on the UCA's face forward in the car.

No, not at this time. But one of the local, self serv wrecking yards will be putting out a 75 Dart to be picked over. I'm keeping my eye on their inventory listings, to see whenever they put it out in one of the Mopar rows, for me to get parts like that off the donor car. Jim V. hemi71x

Hardware store. Nothing special about them.

Thank you. That's what i always was trying to get through, with that other guy, from the git go.

They are the same in dimensions, and machining spacing wise, but the ARE NOT THE SAME in appearance, between the body styles that are being discussed here.

Yes, that's correct. F, M, J, on the right.

That's because yours are "taller" being 73 and up "B" body spindles. Ehrenbergs picture is for 73-76 A body spindles, or 70-74 E body spindles, or 70-72 B body spindles.

I disagree with that. Take a look what a "B" body spindles looks like, and what an "F" body, Aspen & Volare spindle looks like in post #6. I'm not that familiar what M or J body cars, spindles look like. In appearance, they have differences, even though they all will work when doing disc brake...

So, what's the consensus on this guys spindles? 73 up, B body parts?

Well, let me Edit post #2 if i may. I had these pictures in my other computers files. To help out further in this question and answer, the op spindles aren't C body ones like i thought. And they also aren't F body, Aspen & Volare spindles either. In the first picture, Aspen & Volare spindles are...

Here's my .02 cents, and thinking on your question. Since you have "pin type calipers" and the spindles are a inner small bearing, on the shaft diameter, and the ball joint mount, that bolts to the spindle, they appear to be 69-72 "C" body brakes. They definitely aren't "B" body brakes, of A, or...

They are "C" body spindles if the ball joint attachment holes are further apart. But for year(s) i couldn't tell you, early or late. That would depend on inner bearing spindle diameter, on the shaft. They're not gonna work on an A, B, E, body car, as they are too tall in overall height. (Picture...

Not at $33.00 dollars, for an Elko bushing. Way over priced. Don't know Aussie money, what that would be in American money?

Let me add to this topic if i may. Last night a friend that i know, brought over a beautiful pair of lower control arms that he wanted me to finish the rebuilding on. The LCA's were powder coated, and he purchased those one hundred pair of new shafts, to go into the LCA's. One shaft he already...

Flame Wrench.

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There are 3 different size ball joint sockets for our Mopars. I suggest you get online and purchase the one you need. They aren't that expensive, and are easy to find.

AS RRR just replied. Nope, that's not good. Take it out, and do your best to start it straight. My thought also, you using the ball joint socket or a large Channel Lock plyer?

Using mustang rotors for 4.5" bc A "sticky" at the top of the brake page, for you to read thru. Machining Mustang rotors that are 4 1/2" inch,wheel, bolt pattern.

I guess i'm going to have to do some homework, and research. What the heck is a "low friction" upper ball joint? I never heard of such a term before. What advantage does one of them have over a "standard" ball joint?

I too have learned from others in the rebuilding of these LCA's, to make life lots easier, in getting this done. I learned from member Jim Lusk, who i have known for decades, a method in removing the "shell" that's left on the pivot shaft, without having to cut it off. Somebody always seems to...

Ma Mopar invented the 1 3/8 tap method for the removal of the LCA bushing shells, back in the dinosaur days. This is scanned out of my 1963 maintenance manual.

For you guys that are planning on a rebuild of your LCA's, keep looking on ebay for a 1 3/8 inch tap. I purchased those size taps, for as little as $12.50 in the past. They are all over the map, price wise, from sellers, vendors, but if you don't need one right away, there are deals to be had...