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Had my head ported, polished, milled, and fitted with oversized valves and hardened seats...and it was CHEAP!!! I saved so much I'm considering using long rods and forged pistons in the bottom. It was done by an independent drag racer who is also a professional machinist. He has a home shop and...

I'm just wondering whatcha think... when it comes to headers, Aussiespeed or Clifford?

I don't have confidence in any of the 40+ year old oil soaked harmonic balancers I have. What is the best replacement?

Okay...it's been a LONG time since I've checked compression...let's see if I remember correctly... let the compression gauge needle jump 4x's I remember something about '20'...is it all cylinders within 20#'s of each other, or 20% of each other, or does '20' not factor in at all...

My 72 Valiant suddenly changed from running good to not idling. Used it for several errands today without problem. Then on the last one I put it in gear and it stalled. It started right back up, but I have to keep the rpms relatively high to not stall. If I take my foot off the gas it stalls...

I've been using my well worn, 109k mile, oil leaking, oil burning, tranny slipping 72 Valiant as my main vehicle until the wife's car is repaired. I've been keeping track of the mpg. SHOCKED that it gets 21 mpg in its less than stellar tune!...not unhappy, just shocked.

I live in a area with EXTREMELY short acceleration lanes on the interstate. My worn out 225 has to use all it has plus a prayer to get on the highway. I want a little more go, especially midrange go, without being too detrimental on daily driving. The head is having 1.7 + 1.44 valves with a...

Having the head cut for 1.7 + 1.44 valves. engine builder says I should use 1.5 od x 3/32 thickness seats. the shop installing them thinks that's to thin and want to install .250" thickness. will cutting for .250 thickness hit or be too close to h2o jackets? what size exhaust seats have any of...

How beneficial would a windage tray be in the 3k rpm range? Just wondering if it would reduce drag enough to improve efficiency and be a cost effective investment...

Who thought this design was a good idea?!?! I've had it! :banghead: Fire up the torch! I'm making a distributor wrench...

OK...I swapped my distributors. Took out the one with the Pertronix and put in the one with points. Now the car runs...happy the car runs, not so happy the Pertronix crapped out in less than a year:protest:

What are the differences between a Holley 1920 and a Holley 1920 Economiser?

Looking forelornly out the window at my Valiant buried in the snow...thinking to myself, "If only I had more space"..."and time"..."and money"..."and skill"...

Am I missing something? Other than cold weather warm up, what benefit is there to heating up the intake manifold? I've always heard it's best to keep your air/fuel as cool as possible, but slant sixers seem to have mixed opinions on this. Any thoughts?

Hit a road gator today and I think it made my small oil leak into a big oil leak:angry3:...well, I guess I gotta get started on one of the slants in the garage

I've heard a lot about and seen a few pictures of Dutra duels, but where does one aquire set of these?

Anyone have any expierience/info on MPG comparisons between 198 + 225? I think I will do a quick re-ring to replace the oil burner I've got now. Started taking spare 225 + 198 apart and the inside of the 198 looks as clean as an OR. So I got to thinking...What was the thought process in...

Just a follow up on my Pertronix Ignitor, if anyone cares... Installation was almost as easy as advertised...hada make the hole in the dist housing slightly bigger to accommodate the wires and grommet, ran red wire to red side of ballast resistor, black to negative side of coil and started it...

I just installed a Pertronix Ignitor. Problem is I have the timing adjsted as far as it will go to make it run decent. I tried repositioning the dizzy but I could find a spot where I could put it in the hold down. I'm wondering if it could be a timing chain issue. The motor is whooped. Also, I...

So...I adjusted the valves and performance is much improved. I don't need a calendar to measure acceleration now!...BUT...it floods out real easy now and idles like crap...AND...the left blinker and gas gauge suddenly started working!...

I'm contemplating what type engine build to do. I'm leaning (HA! LEANING! GET IT?) torwards turbo. I have a 198 + a 225 in the garage awaiting teardown. I've read a lot about 198's connecting rods being better. What's the difference? I'm not building a race car, 99 +44/100 percent street use...

I want to "clean up" the engine compartment. Can I eliminate the charcoal canister and the related hoses without messing things up? If so, what should I do with the line that comes from the gas tank? While I'm thinking about it, can I get rid of the PCV valve too?

In a Slant used 99+44/100 percent for street driving, what is the highest compression ratio and still run pump gas? I had someone tell me 9 to 9.5. That seemed kinda low for 92 octane...

Would it be any problem to put a 1980 or newer 904 behind my 72 slant?

Are there hoses I can get so I can use my SB radiator and just bolt it into my slant 6 Valiant?

I wanna switch to electronic ignition. Has anyone used the Pertronix Ignitor II? Any other suggestions?

If I switch to a Weber 2bbl, should I try to find an aluminum Super Six intake? I've heard mixed reviews. Is the kickdown shaft a can of worms I shouldn't open? What's the chance of finding one, and a good one at that?

While perusing the Slant Six Racing Manual, I saw the instructions for modifying a 1bbl intake into a 2bbl. If "Chrysler engineers" did the research, why is the carb mounted perpendicular to the 2bbl prodution manifold?

I'm toying with the idea of using a Weber progressive 2bbl...any thoughts or advice?

I have '72 Valiant w/ 225. When looking for 225 parts I'm often asked if it is "C" or "E". What does this mean, and how do I tell the differance?