Budget 360 build

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travism

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Hey guys, this is my first post on this forum I have a 1970 Plymouth duster with a slant 6 and I plan on eventually doing a 360 swap, I was wondering what's a good budget engine to start with. Should I get a running 70s motor that needs some work? or would it be cheaper to get a 90s 5.9 360 and do a carb swap on it? also what's a good tranny and rear end combo with a 360? Thanks guys!
 
Bang for the low buck is a 5.9 long block, eBay rebuild kit, good machine work and a cam regrind to the low 230's area for duration. Add a Air Gap intake, eddy 750 carb and off you go. Don't forget you'll need a passenger car oil pan and some kind of LA distributor.

With a well chosen converter and the proper gear, you've got a solid mid 12 second street car.
 
Bang for the low buck is a 5.9 long block, eBay rebuild kit, good machine work and a cam regrind to the low 230's area for duration. Add a Air Gap intake, eddy 750 carb and off you go. Don't forget you'll need a passenger car oil pan and some kind of LA distributor.

With a well chosen converter and the proper gear, you've got a solid mid 12 second street car.
Thanks for replying man, what do u think about a transmission for that setup? I want a 4 or 5 speed tranny and hoping to keep it lower budget
 
You did see the next thread down from yours here the Craigslist $50 360 budget build that I'm doing I know it's getting kind of extensive and it goes off base a lot like anything I do but I'm pretty sure I'm doing this pretty cheaply and hoping for some pretty darn good results. My two cents and just saying
 
You did see the next thread down from yours here the Craigslist $50 360 budget build that I'm doing I know it's getting kind of extensive and it goes off base a lot like anything I do but I'm pretty sure I'm doing this pretty cheaply and hoping for some pretty darn good results. My two cents and just saying
I didn't notice ill check it out!
 
If you want an overdrive auto, you have the a518 or the a500. Think of the 518 as an overdrive 727 and the 500 a 904. There are inexpensive ways to make them work. But the trans tunnel will require mods. If you want a manual, I look for a late model a body "4 speed", which has an underdriven 4th gear.
 
727 with overdrive aka 46RH
904 with overdrive ake 42RH..

In both cases you want the RH model ..not the RE as it is electronically controlled...RH is hydraulically controlled.
 
727 with overdrive aka 46RH
904 with overdrive ake 42RH..

In both cases you want the RH model ..not the RE as it is electronically controlled...RH is hydraulically controlled.

Thank you for clarity on that. I had forgotten that info.
 
If you want an overdrive auto, you have the a518 or the a500. Think of the 518 as an overdrive 727 and the 500 a 904. There are inexpensive ways to make them work. But the trans tunnel will require mods. If you want a manual, I look for a late model a body "4 speed", which has an underdriven 4th gear.
Thanks, I have a rebuilt 904, but I'm looking a for manual tranny
 
I think you need to clarify "budget". To some that means spending 5k on a motor, and others it means a 1k on the motor. What's YOUR budget??
  • Also, what do you want from the motor? your goals?
 
I think you need to clarify "budget". To some that means spending 5k on a motor, and others it means a 1k on the motor. What's YOUR budget??
  • Also, what do you want from the motor? your goals?
I don't really have a budget I just want to see what others have done and try to determine the best bang for my buck, id like to keep it under 3k if I could but my budget is flexible and make 400hp or more.
 
I think you need to clarify "budget". To some that means spending 5k on a motor, and others it means a 1k on the motor. What's YOUR budget??
I don't really have a budget I just want to see what others have done and try to determine the best bang for my buck, id like to keep it under 3k if I could but my budget is flexible and make 400hp or more.
Just for the record, there is no right or wrong answers to these types of questions concerning budgets and all. Only what's right for you.
  • Is the 3k for motor and tranny?
  • Is 400 hp just a fun number to say? or is there a reason you want 400 hp (do you know what 400 hp is like?) Will 400 hp be enough for your goals?
  • Are you trying to be quick in the 1/4 mile? or want to cruise 80 mph all day across Nebraska?
If you can answer these questions, folks here will point you in the direction for your goals :)
 
Just for the record, there is no right or wrong answers to these types of questions concerning budgets and all. Only what's right for you.
  • Is the 3k for motor and tranny?
  • Is 400 hp just a fun number to say? or is there a reason you want 400 hp (do you know what 400 hp is like?) Will 400 hp be enough for your goals?
  • Are you trying to be quick in the 1/4 mile? or want to cruise 80 mph all day across Nebraska?
If you can answer these questions, folks here will point you in the direction for your goals :)
3k is for the motor and tranny if its possible, 400hp is just a fun number to say and I'm just looking to cruise and maybe drag race every once in awhile
 
3k is for the motor and tranny if its possible, 400hp is just a fun number to say and I'm just looking to cruise and maybe drag race every once in awhile
Ahhh.... ok. 3k is definitely do-able to have fun.
 
I don't really have a budget I just want to see what others have done and try to determine the best bang for my buck, id like to keep it under 3k if I could but my budget is flexible and make 400hp or more.
Copy then MP create engine, 360/380hp.
As new of a 5.9 with the lowest mileage possible to start with as your base.
750 cfm carb
Single plane M1 intake. RPM exceptable!
The create engine cam was a Hyd. roller cam. Duration @.050 was 230/236-low .500 lift.
Reuse stock roller lifters and spider
Header suggestions are for a 1-3/4 primary tube. Hooker has super comps and tti has a good set as well, but these are not cheap and will consume most of the budget. (About 1/3)

These engin have been known to dyno better than 400hp.

Since the MP cam is sa s in these create a iTunes are no longer available for the most part, call Comp Cams or Lunati or Hughes engines and tell them what you are doing and want a better cam to replace the MP unit.

The idea of a OD trans is great but cost over 2 k rebuilt and you'll still need a converter.
Or if a manual, cheaper but more complex in the number of parts needed to convert from auto to manual.
 
Does this cruising mean long distance (where you would eventually be thinking about decent fuel economy), or just cruising around town the local countryside? (I.e., you're not much concerned about fuel economy but want to be able to romp on it and feel the g's...)

If you are not attached to any era of 360, then I would start with the Magnum; better compression ratios 'out of the box' (Makes for a wider torque band). And 1.6 rocker ratios... better lift-to-duration ratios.

Look at a lot of topics here and notice all the discussion on head flow and flow bench work, and porting. If you are gonna spend money and/or work, spend it on heads. Flow is where the HP is. 400 HP is pretty much available bolt-together parts in this day and age.....which is where the budget questions flow from.

Next is compression ratio; that makes the torque and if you do it right, the torque band is wide and starts at lower RPMs and that is important for a street cruiser, which lives in the lower RPM bands. More budget questions from that... and so starting with Magnum gives you a leg up on getting a better CR for street use without going overboard.
 
Does this cruising mean long distance (where you would eventually be thinking about decent fuel economy), or just cruising around town the local countryside? (I.e., you're not much concerned about fuel economy but want to be able to romp on it and feel the g's...)

If you are not attached to any era of 360, then I would start with the Magnum; better compression ratios 'out of the box' (Makes for a wider torque band). And 1.6 rocker ratios... better lift-to-duration ratios.

Look at a lot of topics here and notice all the discussion on head flow and flow bench work, and porting. If you are gonna spend money and/or work, spend it on heads. Flow is where the HP is. 400 HP is pretty much available bolt-together parts in this day and age.....which is where the budget questions flow from.

Next is compression ratio; that makes the torque and if you do it right, the torque band is wide and starts at lower RPMs and that is important for a street cruiser, which lives in the lower RPM bands. More budget questions from that... and so starting with Magnum gives you a leg up on getting a better CR for street use without going overboard.
I'm not 100% attached to the idea of a 360, but id prefer a small block and fuel economy isn't a huge concern to me, and it would mainly just be a cruise around town drive to work car that I can have fun with and the furthest id drive it is about 3-4 hours
 
I appreciate all the feedback I'm getting guys! I've bin on a couple mustang forums and a kz440 forum and everyone had a "your not a car guy if you don't know this already attitude" towards every question I had, I really appreciate the positive and helpful feedback.
 
Well Frak them then!

Here, at FABO, you will be given answers to your questions as much as possible. Everyone has to start some place, somewhere at sometime. Sorry to hear others have forgotten that. And where they have been.

Do realize the Magnum uses a short snout cam. If you use a LA cam, a older front cover must be used and the lift of the cam recalculated and the valve spring purchase adjusted for the new lift.

Stock Magnum heads are limited in lift. Keep total valve lift under .520 and it will be fine.
 
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It is pretty easy to get 1 horse per cubic inch and be very streetable an not break the bank.
 
Good mention stixx. The need for more cam is dead on correct. Considering his budget, I figured a create engine copy would be good. The MP 360/380 has a bit of a healthy cam in it vs. the one RAMM used. And it is a roller vs. solid lifter!
 
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