rednesss
Well-Known Member
I was lucky in that respect. I just happened to be checking things under the hood when it started smoking.
FiTech EFI system
- Thread starter 71duster06
- Start date
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Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
Interested to know what FITech has to say about it.
rednesss
Well-Known Member
Well they are closed on the weekend, but I will be contacting them first thing tomorrow.
Fried the orange wire in the 6 pin on mine that goes to the fuel pump about two months ago that was a little frustrating till I found it.
this past Saturday it fried the red wire in the 6 pin.
I don't mind walking but this is getting a little old.
It also took out the timing control in the T.B. and who knows what else.
Put the 40+ year old 750 holly back on and it runs better than it has in a long time...
this past Saturday it fried the red wire in the 6 pin.
I don't mind walking but this is getting a little old.
It also took out the timing control in the T.B. and who knows what else.
Put the 40+ year old 750 holly back on and it runs better than it has in a long time...
ken5124
65 Valiant Signet
With the new ecu I got back from them 2 Weeks ago the power and fuel pump lines area much larger wire fyi.. clearly a
Problem they have found and changed
Problem they have found and changed
rednesss
Well-Known Member
I talked to Bryce, he seemed to think it was fuel pump related and had me reduce the fuel pump PWM from 75 down to 40.
This maybe useless info and you are on your own as how you use it.
While I wait for my T.B to come back from the mother ship(At least a month)I disabled my Fuel command thing.
As most of you know it is just a big bowl bowl with a pump in it...Keep that in mind when you are over thinking your tank vent..holly's have a 2 in vent that works just fine.. A long hose with fuel in it will be more of a problem. I have run out of gas twice drag racing my car(At a truck mud run)but not on the street.
SO lets see what is in side.....
You have your standard holly inlet needle and seat with a fome float and a fuel pump zip tied to a mount with a filter on the bottom..On mine the filter was jammed
hard into the bottom plate.(-0.020)..I cant see this working well.
The pump is held in by a short rubber hose that I cut appx. 0.200 off and replaced the hi-tech zip-ties with a SS clamp because the pump no longer laid on the bottom for support...I dont know if this will help me or not but it cant be a bad thing.. Now the filter has room to work.. Photos later....
While I wait for my T.B to come back from the mother ship(At least a month)I disabled my Fuel command thing.
As most of you know it is just a big bowl bowl with a pump in it...Keep that in mind when you are over thinking your tank vent..holly's have a 2 in vent that works just fine.. A long hose with fuel in it will be more of a problem. I have run out of gas twice drag racing my car(At a truck mud run)but not on the street.
SO lets see what is in side.....
You have your standard holly inlet needle and seat with a fome float and a fuel pump zip tied to a mount with a filter on the bottom..On mine the filter was jammed
hard into the bottom plate.(-0.020)..I cant see this working well.
The pump is held in by a short rubber hose that I cut appx. 0.200 off and replaced the hi-tech zip-ties with a SS clamp because the pump no longer laid on the bottom for support...I dont know if this will help me or not but it cant be a bad thing.. Now the filter has room to work.. Photos later....
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Any of you guys running this getting a fuel smell in the garage. When I park my car after driving it, if I walk into the garage the next morning I can smell gas. If I come in a couple days later it's gone.
Issues like the above are why I try to reccomend an in tank setup if people will entertain the idea. And by that...I mean a nice aeromotive, not something with brass fittings and hose clamps. The fuel command center is a good option for something near original that you're scared to drop the tank or touch the lines in and truthfully its pretty cool. But the description above is also accurate.
In my opinion, an aeromotive, or the new holley setups are the better option in my eyes. Hard to get people to spend the money however. Which I totally understand...we as mopar guys already shell out more than the other guys, but you cant try to save $200 on a cheaper pump, or even worst, try to avoid spending $150 on a nice (correct) distributor by hacking on a $40 rock auto unit. And then wondering why your new $1400 worth of efi system isnt working over the $100 you saved on a cheap distributor, or an "easy" fuel option. These comments are not at all slung at anyone above. Im just trying to send some tough love out there. I have a customer that called me three days in a row for assistance with install (which im happy to give) each time he assured me that his stock distributor was not a problem, and I (whom he was calling for help) was not correct about needing a billet unit. He FInally ordered one of my tsp pro billets after failing miserably for a week and threatening to send the unit back...guess what? He drove it from Virginia to georgia last weekend. Crazy how much BS he went through to try and run a $40 distributor with his $1200 system. Glad we finally got it figured out...but I bet he wishes he would have bought that distributor on day one ;)
In my opinion, an aeromotive, or the new holley setups are the better option in my eyes. Hard to get people to spend the money however. Which I totally understand...we as mopar guys already shell out more than the other guys, but you cant try to save $200 on a cheaper pump, or even worst, try to avoid spending $150 on a nice (correct) distributor by hacking on a $40 rock auto unit. And then wondering why your new $1400 worth of efi system isnt working over the $100 you saved on a cheap distributor, or an "easy" fuel option. These comments are not at all slung at anyone above. Im just trying to send some tough love out there. I have a customer that called me three days in a row for assistance with install (which im happy to give) each time he assured me that his stock distributor was not a problem, and I (whom he was calling for help) was not correct about needing a billet unit. He FInally ordered one of my tsp pro billets after failing miserably for a week and threatening to send the unit back...guess what? He drove it from Virginia to georgia last weekend. Crazy how much BS he went through to try and run a $40 distributor with his $1200 system. Glad we finally got it figured out...but I bet he wishes he would have bought that distributor on day one ;)
nitrohemi
Well-Known Member
Do you guys have the 1200 ho version in stock or are they back ordered yet.
Had them the other day. Let me check tomorrow morn. Thanks
Had a fuel smell with T.B. NO.2 It was a pinched O-ring
on one of the fuel injector that was letting fuel by.
Not alot but you could smell it and see a light wetness
on one side of the T.B.
I am on T.B. no. 3 Going on to T.B.no.4
Hope this my help.....
on one of the fuel injector that was letting fuel by.
Not alot but you could smell it and see a light wetness
on one side of the T.B.
I am on T.B. no. 3 Going on to T.B.no.4
Hope this my help.....
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I will check that out. I have the tanks inc. setup with the in tank pump, all fittings are dry. The car runs great, just that little bit of gas smell if I park in the attached garage.
I am running an in tank pump, tanks inc. setup all fittings are dry.
FTH-30012 IS IN STOCK
FTH-30001 IS IN STOCK
FTH-30003 IS IN STOCK
FTH-30004 IS IN STOCK
FTH-30008 IS IN STOCK
FTH-40101 IS IN STOCK
FTH-80111 IS IN STOCK
FTH-80112 IS IN STOCK
OUT OF BOTH COMPLETE PUMP KITS FOR THE TIME BEING.
nitrohemi
Well-Known Member
Awesome. I'll be calling soon. How do I get a hold of you directly.
I prefer AN fittings to NPT...especially with the way modern fuels are designed. Pump Gas oxidizes aluminum, zinc, and brass. I'm more comfortable with an AN line and fittings w/ an anodized finish. Just my 2 cents. Modern fuel is known to oxidize carburetors and pump them full of white sludge...What does it do to brass and Yellow zinc over time?
What does it do to brass and Yellow zinc over time?
Makes me a lot of money replacing jets in Motorsports stuff.
The small jets will get really small or plug all together.
The white sluge in the bowls add just a little more fun to it..
It is rare but sometimes it will stop a fuel injector from working at all..
we have a place that sells 100 octane race fuel nearby..
Over night this stuff will kill a carb. or injector.
Must be the good stuff......
Makes me a lot of money replacing jets in Motorsports stuff.
The small jets will get really small or plug all together.
The white sluge in the bowls add just a little more fun to it..
It is rare but sometimes it will stop a fuel injector from working at all..
we have a place that sells 100 octane race fuel nearby..
Over night this stuff will kill a carb. or injector.
Must be the good stuff......
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8) it was rhetorical, but thanks for helping me solidify my point.lol That economical tank/pump combo that the masses seem to rave about doesn't have my endorsement. I know i'm far from the automotive authority figure of the world, but something about NPT brass fitting and hose barbs in a 58PSI system running walmart gas with 10% ethanol wouldn't let me sleep at night.
ken5124
65 Valiant Signet
So I am back from Holidays, and installed by repaired throttle body. Hooked it up exactly as before, with fitech controlling the timing and it would not run right.. clearly timing issue. Popping and spitting.
Went back to not controlling the timing, and it runs.. Has to relearn everything but NO MORE O2 codes!!.
No idea why the timing control won't work. I think I will leave the timing control alone for the balance of this season and let the fuel part learn.
Gonna dig out a different distributor I have, because with the mopar one I am using, if I use vacuum advance, the pickup module gets pulled lightly into contact with the reluctor wheel.
Went back to not controlling the timing, and it runs.. Has to relearn everything but NO MORE O2 codes!!.
No idea why the timing control won't work. I think I will leave the timing control alone for the balance of this season and let the fuel part learn.
Gonna dig out a different distributor I have, because with the mopar one I am using, if I use vacuum advance, the pickup module gets pulled lightly into contact with the reluctor wheel.
ken5124
65 Valiant Signet
You bet , that's what it is supposed to do.. but for some reason.. it is not working with the new ECU I got. Not sure what changed.
Hey Ken,
out of curiosity, and completely with no ill intent implied, are you still under the impression that the old mallory/mopar distributor is not at all the cause of any of these issues? I though you were one of the few who made a non MSD type distributor work with the timing control? I have my own friendly opinion about trying to use that distributor, but i thought you had it working with the timing? I only caught one post between the one above and your last, and it appeared you went from working ok with timing, to a bad ecu, to now no timing control? I just like to investigate these issues myself a bit to better answer questions, and for my own knowledge.
Only other thing i'd like to point out for the masses is that by "mopar performance distributor" you are referring to a mallory type that they used to re-badge....NOT a stock style distributor like the PROFORM kit that is basically nothing more than a stock unit...correct?
thanks Ken, I hope you work out the issues regardless.
ken5124
65 Valiant Signet
Morning,
Prior to sending the throttle body back, I was using the Mallory style Mopar distributor, seemingly with no issues.. Re installed with no changes and now it is not working with timing control. ( and fine without it).
Not sure what happened? Waiting for en email back from their tech guy if he has any ideas.
Ken
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