Project Riddler's Ride - 1976 Plymouth Duster

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Well I had the entire morning to work today. Wife and baby chose to sleep through the 100* weather all morning.

I just finished up the fuel tank mounting. I took better pictures of what I've done as well as painted the POR15 up around the rest of the body work.

Here's the tank with the seal mounted.
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Here's the before POR15 pictures.
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And now the after pictures of it all painted and proteted.
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I then moved on the the Peaks Dash I have. I've been working it and massaging it to fit for weeks on and off. Today I took drastic measures. I cut the glove box door up and made it fit the way it's suppose to.

Just a picture showing the glove box cover not really lining up and you can see what I've done to help that.
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I chose to get rid of the half round as it wasn't in the right place and the knob just didn't fit it right. Glad I kept the stock plastic trim peice for the glove box door.
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The glove box massaged and ready to install. It took hours to get it to this point.
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Here are some fitment pictures of the gauge area.
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Last but not least the final pictures. The glove box lines up with a 1/8" gap between the door and main dash and the bend in the dash finally lines up when you see it.
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Here's the close up view of the glove box door.
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I'm sure I'll have do play with it some more but for now I'm very happy with how it's come out. My future plan is to grind the heads of the screws down and fiberglass over them along with the bottom edge so it looks like one piece.

Riddler
 
Should have probably gone your route with the plastic trim piece.
I've got more hours to sink into it to get it to fit like yours.

Love your tank setup and how you have it mounted. Looks super clean and retains trunk space.
 
Well another day, more work completed. I wasn't able to weld much the last few weeks as I needed a welding extension cord. I was going to make my own but a local store had one go on sale for 50% off. So I snatched it up.

So I'll start off with the hydroboost unit I obtained from a local wrecking yard. Not a bad score, looked fairly new, was clean and the vehicle it was on had the steering column removed. I cleaned it up and gave it a coat of gloss black and high temp clear.

Painting the black...
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All done with clear...
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I then took my time to make a template to take to the laser cutter.
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i then moved on the transmission crossmember. So far I've gotten it all mocked up and tack welded. Today I finally was happy enough to weld everything up. The picture shows the final welds I put on the ends and transmission mount. I'll clean those up some and prolly just primer it. It'll prolly be sent out to be powdercoated with the other parts.

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Then finally between the coats of paint drying and the welds to cooling down I got to playing with the gas struts from the hood. I didn't like the way they didn't open the hood only kept it open at certain angles. So I used them on the trunk and with two 90lbs struts the trunk goes up and down with ease!

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Finally a video my wife helped me take of the trunk lid opening. Just need to find an electric trunk release now.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=424hdgJIF5s&feature=plcp"]Duster Trunk gas struts - YouTube[/ame]

Riddler
 
I picked this up yesterday from a local guy for $150. 1" bore Wilwood master cylinder. Perfect for the hydroboost install.

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Riddler
 
Riddler said:
Finally the fuel tank installed in the car. I just have to get some sheet metal screws or nuts and bolts. I'm leaning towards nuts and bolts.
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I would fasten the gas tank in either rivited nutplates or bonded nutplates that are used on aircraft.
I am pretty sure that you can get them from McMaster-Carr or Grainger.
Click to expand...
 
I like the gas struts what struts did you get? Did you use the tabs on the wheel houses?
I also like your gas tank where did you get it?
 
The gas struts were purchased from eBay. They 9" closed, 15" extended and 90lbs each. They were purchased for the hood but they didn't work out. I'll go back to that another time.

The bottom ball is bolted in the hole on the pinch weld. I'm not even sure what those holes are for but there perfect. The tops have brackets screwed into the brackets. Once I have the latch in the trunk will open itself once the latch lets go. Just how I want it.

The fuel tank was designed by tincup and myself. whitetrash (I think) builds them. It's a perfect tank for me. I've sent a few guys to them and I know Mark from Peaks Dashes ordered one up as well.

Riddler
 
That trunk looks nice with the tank and those struts, I should have used that tab I do not know why I didn't. Well looks great keep up the great job and don't get frustrated on the hood call that company they will hook you up.
 
Btw the trunk release for the challenger works great for my duster, but no key so there is that.
 
I painted the crossmember and bolted it up tonight. I then started tackling the floor and grew frustrated and walked away.

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I was going to make a cross brace over the top of the trans out of 1/2" bar stock and combine 2 of those with some 1/8"x2" steel flat stock. But I think I might go out and try and find some 2"x1/2"x1/8" U channel.

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Riddler
 
I found some time today to get some work done. My goal was to button up the floor. I gave it my best but I failed. I did have a good start and wish some cardboard I can make templates and finally finish the floor.

Here's the bridge over the trans I made. It's 2"x1" C channel and has 1/8" plates to weld to the sheet metal floor.
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I've finished welding it up but never got a picture. I also clearenced a few sections so that I've 1/4" or more of space from the trans to the bridge.

I then moved on to messing with the pedals and hydroboost. I took all the brackets off the pedals I didn't need. Anyone looking for heavy duty 340 brackets etc?
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Here's what I was left with.
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I then mounted up the hydroboost. The brackets were perfectly to the firewall. Just have to take a hammer and smack a buldge down about 1/4". I then however stuck a hemi head on the driver's side and found that the hydroboost won't allow for the room needed to mount the valve covers.
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I'm going to run to the laser cutters this week or early next week and see about getting another brackets cut for clock the hydroboost counter clockwise 90*. This will allow me the extra space I want to have to install and remove the valve covers. I'm also going to have to have a bracket made to clock the master back 90* in the other direction so it mounts flush.

Riddler
 
I don't know if it's been mentioned, but I'm going to be very dissapointed if this isn't green with black accents. (Maybe some question marks.)
 
You should do the new metallic rust orange. I am either doing a b5ish blue or the orange with gloss black hood and door tops etc. This is looking good btw! its been a while since I have been on to see an update.
 
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