The POS 408 progress pics....

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Those V belts work just fine for me! The V belts can be a little uneven and still work just fine. Heck even your lawnmower uses a V belt, lol

Both look just fine if done nicely. If both were the same cost then I could see but why not go the cheapest way that works?
 
any updates?

And 67gtx, thats a ford alternator???? looks just like a mopar unit!

like maddart asked, is there a part number for the alternator?
 
You got a Part# for the Damper?? Need one for the TT and since yours fits nice, may as well just go with it.
 
I'll post updates this weekend, Sorry. been busy.

I ended up going with the march 6 rib serpentine system and their tuff stuff 100 amp alternator.

Louis I think with your efi you may possibly want more amps than that. I am not even going to use an electric fan, Just a flex. So the 100 amp is fine for me.
 
POS Dakota said:
I'll post updates this weekend, Sorry. been busy.

I ended up going with the march 6 rib serpentine system and their tuff stuff 100 amp alternator.

Louis I think with your efi you may possibly want more amps than that. I am not even going to use an electric fan, Just a flex. So the 100 amp is fine for me.
Click to expand...

I guess there is one for a Bobcat that is 160 Amps. I may end up running 2 we will see. Possibly 1 off the engine and 1 powered off the Driveshaft somehow or another!
It is tight in my engine bay no doubt and the bigger amp units usually get bigger.

Although this one here looks the same size and puts out 160 AMPS it says.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320025350752&viewitem=#ht_500wt_956

or here for up to 200AMPS http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=23
 
The whole alternator thing had really gotten me frustrated.

I wanted something that didnt look like crap, that I could use with my magnum system, but powermaster and whoever else could kiss my *** with their 400 dollar prices for something that put out the amps I wanted and even moreso for wanting half that for a non polished or powdercoated stock reman. What horse ****! Unfortunately there are no chinese alternators that I knew of at the time. lol!

So I just chucked all the magnum stuff, sold all the pullies, timing cover and all that, and went with an LA setup and the 100 amp alt. from march. I like their stuff and given how nice it is, the price is acceptable to me. At least then I wasnt having any issues with brackets and valve covers and all that not working together, so it was worth it. Plus it's the nicest quality stuff out there.

Need a press on alt pulley? lol

2011-01-11_21-22-59_581.jpg


How many amps do you really need?
I would never get a straight answer when i asked, so I spoke to my friend GregZ one night (the guy who makes those billet timing covers) and looked at some of what he's doing. A 100 amp alternator even with electric fans and headlights is fine. No problem. EFI can't really add too much more draw on top of that. I would say a 134 amp would work since that's what worked all these years in the POS Dakota with EFI, halogen lights electric fans etc.

If you do want something that puts out a good deal, I'm thinking the bracketry will pose more of a problem than the alternator itself, but that's my thought. None of that custom stuff they make seems to fit very well on a chrysler from what I found. But maybe I didnt look hard enough. I eventually gabe up o it and decided to just go with the most simple thing I could do.

The only thing I found that looked good and put out amps was that MSD billet alt with the swappable mounts, but I've heard they arent any good. Not fact that I can prove, just what I heard.


I doubt you'd need anymore than 160 amps...no?
 
Mad Dart said:
I guess there is one for a Bobcat that is 160 Amps. I may end up running 2 we will see. Possibly 1 off the engine and 1 powered off the Driveshaft somehow or another!
It is tight in my engine bay no doubt and the bigger amp units usually get bigger.

Although this one here looks the same size and puts out 160 AMPS it says.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320025350752&viewitem=#ht_500wt_956

or here for up to 200AMPS http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=23
Click to expand...

Either one of those alternators looks like they would be fine. I like both of them, actually. I'll most likely go with one of those for my '70 Dart build.
 
Alright... updates...Decided to go balls-out.

I got the engine the way I want it.
almostthere.jpg


Still a few small bugs, but no big deal.
I've been back in training so I havent had a lot of extra energy to screw with this stuff.
But I bought a bunch of stuff man. A lot of stuff! I think I am well over 15k into this already....

Trans is a john cope 727 which is supposed to be able to take about 700 hp.
That's what I asked for and I am positive it's what I got. nuff said there...
Converter is a 10 inch frank lupo 3800 stall.
Milodon stainless dipstick to match my oil dipstick on the engine.
SFI flexplate...
Custom made 4 inch diameter aluminum driveshaft with 990 yoke and custom trans crossmember and loop.

Fuel system....Louis this is your ticket for the TT Dart!

Aeromotive A-1000 stealth fuel cell with -10 feed, -8 return, dual rollover ents, and 0-90ohm sender...
a-100020gallonfuelcell.jpg


10micronfilter.jpg


regulator.jpg


pipes.jpg


Yeah, it's overkill. But my r3 engine will need it when the time comes. Plus I like that there is nothing hanging underneath...this is detroit. Anything can happen. Trust me.
It's all fully self contained and is supposed to be able to supply 1200 hp.
Should work out nicely I would think. I'm mounting it in the bed to put the fuel weight on the back wheels.

Ok, enough for now...more to come though. I have a million pics but I'm tired.
 
Looks good! I like the Black Fittings, nice choice. Been busy myself working on my business trying to survive the Roller Coaster economy. Started another business also that Kicks off the ground April 1st... That is where all my time has been going lately. It should pay off big time and someone else can finish the car..........but for now the car is Gunna have to wait.
 
Mad Dart said:
Looks good! I like the Black Fittings, nice choice. Been busy myself working on my business trying to survive the Roller Coaster economy. Started another business also that Kicks off the ground April 1st... That is where all my time has been going lately. It should pay off big time and someone else can finish the car..........but for now the car is Gunna have to wait.
Click to expand...

So what about that nice little turbo 410 your building????
 
ou812 said:
So what about that nice little turbo 410 your building????
Click to expand...

Still being built just slow going. I did get the head studs installed a few days ago. Gunna paint the engine when I have time and assemble the rest. I have everything but the time right now. Work is my #1 Priority with the Government changing how I get paid on 4-1-2011, I had to do some MAJOR changes on how I operate my business. Lay down and DIE or Re Group was my two options.

If all works out like I plan I will just pay someone to finish off the whole damn car in the next few months.
 
Mad Dart said:
Still being built just slow going. I did get the head studs installed a few days ago. Gunna paint the engine when I have time and assemble the rest. I have everything but the time right now. Work is my #1 Priority with the Government changing how I get paid on 4-1-2011, I had to do some MAJOR changes on how I operate my business. Lay down and DIE or Re Group was my two options.

If all works out like I plan I will just pay someone to finish off the whole damn car in the next few months.
Click to expand...

It's a hobby because it's something you do for enjoyment in your wpare time whenever you can fit it in. If you rush it, it becomes work and that takes the fun out of it.:angry7:

I just bite it off in pieces so I keep interested and look forward to it.
You'll get there. No rush...and when you do get it done, keep a spare pair in the trunk...you'll need them!:-D
 
Ok, so anyway, after talking to people using the a-1000 pump and much mention of fuel being overheated from excessive circulation, and also wanting a 300 plus dollar pump to last and not draw excessive amps, I decided on this....

a-1000controller.jpg


To those not familiar with what this does, it takes what is an overpowered pump and controls it's speed with a pulsed 12 volt signal. It will run slow at idle when I dont want it drawing amps and when I dont need much fuel, and will ramp up when I do need it and when the amp draw wont be seen. It reads the tach signal and works off that.
There are cheaper ways of doing it. Much cheaper. But I dont think the fuel system is a place to go cheap.
This also eliminates the need for a pump relay.

I just saw it the smart thing to do since most of the failures with these pumps are from them running at full speed all the time and overheating. between the pump being submerged in the cell and the controller, I ought to be golden now. Peace of mind. I got it for 175 new when they go for well over 300 bucks.

I am waiting on an aluminum driveshaft, a 727 mout made for my truck to replace the 4 speed OD, my dynamic 10 inch 3800 stall, and I also bought a champion radiator and spal fan to keep it coolio. More pics to come as more arrives....
 
POS Dakota, I have that same exact fuel system for my Dart...The 20 gallon stealth fuel cell with the A1000 pump built in it, the 100 micron filter and that same regulator...Although I don't have it all hooked up yet...This whole setup was so much damn money, I can't bring myself to buy the last part I need...That damn 350 dollar controller...But, one day I will buy it when the time comes to hook it all up...All my parts have been sitting for 2 years...
 
Ok brother, You can send that puppy right over to my house. I'll pay shipping of course.:toothy7: MMG
 
340sFastback said:
That rocker arm geometry back on the first page is a beautiful thing.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I worked hard for it.:angel4:
between the head milling, my pistons being .017 out of the hole and having to use a thicker gasket among other things to make everything happy together, what really blew my mind was the fact that an off the shelf factory length 6.91 (I think that's right) magnum pushrod dropped in!
The rockers are those hughes 1.65 ratio shaft rollers for the magnum.
For some reason I had to raise them to get the correct scrub on the stem tip. Anyway, after a lot of hair pulling, it all payed off. In a few more weeks I should have running vids. Still working on the truck right now.

There is maybe 1-1.5 adjuster threads out the bottom of the rocker.
Very happy with that.
 
mopardude318 said:
POS Dakota, I have that same exact fuel system for my Dart...The 20 gallon stealth fuel cell with the A1000 pump built in it, the 100 micron filter and that same regulator...Although I don't have it all hooked up yet...This whole setup was so much damn money, I can't bring myself to buy the last part I need...That damn 350 dollar controller...But, one day I will buy it when the time comes to hook it all up...All my parts have been sitting for 2 years...
Click to expand...

Yep 1700 dollar fuel system not including the carb line.:angry2:
But I have seen a lot of pictures of cars with that pump in the trunk, or underneath on the frame rail and that scares me.

Imagine a pressure leak with that puppy? damn!

So yeah having it in the cell makes me feel a lot better where th pump is safe from getting hit with anything, is way quieter (they're loud!) and it eliminates another point for a leak. every fitting is an ORB fitting for security. Not just before the regulator.

I'm using the 10 micron filter past the pump.
I think the screeen in the cell before the pump is 100 micron IIRC.

cell is going in the bed over the rear wheels where the weight will serve better. That's why I got the 20 gallon.

Definitely one of the nicest fuel systems out there IMO.
 
I scored this radiator from champion.

Kind of funny because champion has been around forever and I completely forgot about them.

Since they dont make a radiator for POS Dakotas, I took some measurements and came to the conclusion that a late 80s-early 90 corvette three-row radiator will fit my rad support just fine.

Here is is....for 250 bucks with the fan which is a really nice fan, I can't complain at all....28" wide by 16" high by 2.25" thick.

rad1.jpg


rad3.jpg


rad4.jpg


Here's the fan up against the core...16 inch fan on 16 inch core....
rad5.jpg


More of fan....it's a very nice quality unit from what I can tell. Built very solid with a heavy motor and strong magnets...

fan2.jpg


Blades are reversible if you wanted a pusher...

fan1.jpg


I'm going to test this fan today to see what kind of air it moves. I have been told it is a really good fan, but we'll find out.
 
I love fabbed aluminum radiators.

Champion makes a realy nice a-body radiator as a sidenote for any of you guys interested...
200ish bucks for this is a nice price IMO.

Companies like Becool are screwing people royally for way more.

CC2375_1966-1974_Charger.jpg
 
mopardude318 said:
looks sweet man!
Click to expand...

It's going to be really cool.
I'm currently mocking it up into a brand new radiator support with a special mount that enables me to quick release the radiator by undoing the hoses and turning a couple cam bolts. nice thing about the chevy radiator is that the mounts are saddles that are slotted for the edge of the core to sit in. They basically lock into the saddles so you dont bolt the radiator itself into anything. I like the quick release idea. Of course it's not really necessary, but it's just a cool touch I have to do.

Very nice for playing with cam degree settings, swapping cams, or replacing grenaded balancers. hehe

Removing a factory type radiator from a dakota with all the trans lines, a/c etc is a real *****. Not anymore!
 
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