Help Please - How-to remove oil filter mounting plate??

[Divenut]

Hi Folks,

Pulling my headers to perform some repairs, i.e. new Steering Gearbox, Oil Pan etc.... I was able to get the drivers side header out after removing the gearbox and starter. The passenger side ( which is suppose to be the easy side LOL!) seems to be hanging up on the oil filter mounting plate. Can anyone tell me the correct way to get the plate off? :dontknow: Any words of caution and pitfalls to avoid are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Pat

Success on the driver's side w/o having to jack up the motor:cheers: Note the cooked (cardboard?) gasket! Planning on going with a cooper gasket set when I bolt the headers back on. Any other suggestions for quality header gaskets?

 

[Rocky_JS]

take the center bolt out of the 90 degree adapter and remove the filter and adapter together. will need new gaskets though

 

[Divenut]

take the center bolt out of the 90 degree adapter and remove the filter and adapter together. will need new gaskets though

Damn Rocky_JS, thank you very much for the quick reply. Many thanks man! rayer:

Have a good night,
Pat

 

[Rocky_JS]

sometimes you can remove the motor mount bolts and jack the engine up from the oil pan (use wood between jack and pan) it opens up space to get headers in and out.

 

[Divenut]

sometimes you can remove the motor mount bolts and jack the engine up from the oil pan (use wood between jack and pan) it opens up space to get headers in and out.

Ya, thought I'd have to do that on the drivers side, but was able to drop it out once the gearbox and starter were out of th eway. Looks like the only obstacle on the passenger side is the filter plate. (hopefully)

Thansk again,
Pat

 

[Demonracer]

When you try to remove the bolt, use a good 6 or 12 point socket and don't go GORILLA on it.The bolt is hollow and has holes in it, and you WILL break the bolt if you heave on it really hard. Ask me how I know.

 

[Divenut]

When you try to remove the bolt, use a good 6 or 12 point socket and don't go GORILLA on it.The bolt is hollow and has holes in it, and you WILL break the bolt if you heave on it really hard. Ask me how I know.

Thanks for the tip Demonracer...I will be sure to take it slow and easy. Do I dare ask, how do you know? :dontknow:

Thanks again for this key bit of info.

Pat

 

[Divenut]

Thanks again for the tips guys. Got the mounting plate off w/o a problem and the header fell right out.:thumleft:

take the center bolt out of the 90 degree adapter and remove the filter and adapter together. will need new gaskets though

Glad you mentioned the gaskets Rocky_JS, the PO had no O-ring Gasket on the plate (Now I know why the passenger side of my 340 has a film of oil on it. The fiber gasket the goes on the bolt crumbled when I took it off. So glad I picked up the gasket set from Summit! I can final start putting parts back ON the car for a change!

Pat

Ready for stripping and paint! Finally!

 

[green1]

If I had headers that required pulling the gearbox, they would be in the trash.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

looks like headman headers, 150.00 bucks

 

[Divenut]

If I had headers that required pulling the gearbox, they would be in the trash.

LOL! True green1...but I had to remove the gearbox because it is shot. Figured I clean them old Hookers up and replace the leaking header gaskets while I was at it.

looks like headman headers, 150.00 bucks

Gotta throw that $150 towards a Suregrip chunk 1wild&crazy guy...my open diff just aint cutting it...:wack:

Longer term plans include a 416 stroker kit and which time I'll break down and pop for some nicer headers. Now if I could just find a way to pay for all the stuff I want/need for the Duster...........:scratch:

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

right on, i actually thought what u had were headmans, but now i see the hooker tag thats spot welded of the drivers side.

Im running the headman cheap'os on my 410, solid roller, ported heads, 10.1 comp....i know im giving up a lil top end, but it's gonna make enough power to where i could really care less. 800 dollars can do a lot of other things i need to do....like if someone were to say 'either 950 carb for 800 or tti's for 800.....ill take the carb. random thoughts..lol

 

[UOP]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-66037/

I burned up the gaskets that came with my headers, and then a set of Mr. Gasket Ultra Seals during the first year I had my car on the road. My headers don't seem to fit right (Summit junk), but these really did the trick. No more leaks and they're blow-out proof. What more can I say?

 

[green1]

I still have a set of Hookers. They leaked in the '70's; more welding, they still leak. Had to make a special tool to change #5 and 7. Grrrrrrrrr.

Helped a buddy install a BB into a b body . Laid the TTI's in, set engine in. Had to unbolt them to get 727 in. Then-want to read a plug? ha. Nightmare.

Haven't heard too much bad on Doug's.

 

[Divenut]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-66037/

I burned up the gaskets that came with my headers, and then a set of Mr. Gasket Ultra Seals during the first year I had my car on the road. My headers don't seem to fit right (Summit junk), but these really did the trick. No more leaks and they're blow-out proof. What more can I say?

That is the set I picked up from Summit too UOP, along with some ARP bolts and the POR-15 Exhaust Manifold paint. Should get me through for a little while.

Had to make a special tool to change #5 and 7. Grrrrrrrrr.

Oh ya, I will be changing the plugs while I got them suckers off brother! ;-)