**Twin Turbo 67 Dart Project**

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Here is a pretty cool sway bar based off a torsion bar. There are several ways to mount this system. You can also order it with Longer Rods if you need them longer.

I am probably going to try this one out with longer rods and make it a bolt on to my housing somehow without grinding/chipping the powder coat. Pretty sure it can be done with me fabbing up some brackets that bolt to the extra holes I have in the shock bracket tabs.

There are a bunch of different mounting pictures here......

http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/sway-bar-kit/

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mudqso7zGBQ&list=UUSHOY5Jnx65IXLfPvUzW8MA&index=43&feature=plpp_video"]New Universal Sway Bar Kit - YouTube[/ame]
 
Mad Dart said:
Here is a pretty cool sway bar based off a torsion bar. There are several ways to mount this system. You can also order it with Longer Rods if you need them longer.

I am probably going to try this one out with longer rods and make it a bolt on to my housing somehow without grinding/chipping the powder coat. Pretty sure it can be done with me fabbing up some brackets that bolt to the extra holes I have in the shock bracket tabs.

There are a bunch of different mounting pictures here......

http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/sway-bar-kit/

New Universal Sway Bar Kit - YouTube
Click to expand...

That bar my friend is way too small. Check out the one I linked!
 
Mad Dart said:
So your friend has this bar and says it is too small?

I will call or try to get in contact with the seller you gave the link to. That is a good price.
Click to expand...

No, the bar in the video is too small. The one in the link I posted is the same size as the Comp. Engineering setup.
 
CUUDAK said:
No, the bar in the video is too small. The one in the link I posted is the same size as the Comp. Engineering setup.
Click to expand...

The difference I see between the Competition Engineering and the Ebay one is the Comp one uses a Chromoly Torsion bar instead of Mild Steel. I am sure the Chromoly one would work better though it cost more $$. Reason is Chromoly has better Memory Characteristic's than Mild Steel.
 
Mad Dart said:
The difference I see between the Competition Engineering and the Ebay one is the Comp one uses a Chromoly Torsion bar instead of Mild Steel. I am sure the Chromoly one would work better though it cost more $$. Reason is Chromoly has better Memory Characteristic's than Mild Steel.
Click to expand...

Yep, I know. My bro-inlaw is a metalurgist. I just installed a Comp Eng. anti-rollbar in a S10 and the difference is night and day. Shaved a tenth off his sixty foot time as well!
He had a cheap street 4 link like the ones in the trucks that are bagged. His truck would move to the side bad and rub the inside of the bedsides at launch. The cheapy panhard didn't work well at all. The anti-rollbar stopped that too!
 
CUUDAK said:
Yep, I know. My bro-inlaw is a metalurgist. I just installed a Comp Eng. anti-rollbar in a S10 and the difference is night and day. Shaved a tenth off his sixty foot time as well!
He had a cheap street 4 link like the ones in the trucks that are bagged. His truck would move to the side bad and rub the inside of the bedsides at launch. The cheapy panhard didn't work well at all. The anti-rollbar stopped that too!
Click to expand...

Think I am going to order the Comp Engineering Part#C2027

Only thing is now I am almost forced to cut out the spare tire well unless I can come up with a different configuration for my Dual Trans Cooler set up. Need to lay under the car and think for a bit more.

[ame]http://www.competitionengineering.com/catalog/images/c2027_inst.pdf[/ame]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-2027/?rtype=10
 
CUUDAK said:
This is the one I used,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comp-Eng-20...t-/390464385713?forcev4exp=true&forceRpt=true

It doesn't come with the frame brackets but I used a holesaw and cut through the rails and welded the sleeve on both sides of each rail. This way it can be removed if needed. With the frame brackets welded in you can't remove it.
Click to expand...

I could use that one but the Billet arms are supposed to ride against the teflon inserts that go into the sleeves that weld to the frame or through the frame. I need more adjustment. I could make a spacer to set the arm out further away but it would just be easier to use the other one.

The one I am going to use has a bearing instead of a Teflon Insert. Supposed to last longer and be rebuildable? Who knows. This should also give me enough room for both of my Trans Coolers without cutting out the spare tire well.
 
Just ordered the Anti Sway Bar Part#2027. Battery Hold Downs, Battery Acid Mats, Exterior Battery Disconnect "Push Pull with Handle", & starter Relay, Dual Battery Selector, and another 18" Trans Cooler to make a Dual Cooler assembly.

I am going to position all these parts and see exactly where I will end up with the Fuel Cell. I may order a custom size tank from the link below. I need 10an Feeds off the sump and they can add them for $5.00 extra Each. I will use 2 of them to feed the inlets of my fuel pump assembly. The 8an Return & Vent are fine.

http://shop.brokedickracing.com/Build-Your-Own-Custom-Cell-_p_10640.html
 
CUUDAK said:
Thought you were using gel cell or dry cell batteries? I swear by Optima! You won't need the mats.
Click to expand...

True but I don't want to scratch up the new paint!! I am using them as a pad only. I have used these battery's on everything. Boats, buggies, bikes, etc they are the best battery's I have ever used. Plus I had these laying around for my boat. I need to put them to use cause they cost me $600.00!!
 
I started putting the upper control arms together and after powder coat the Hiem's would not screw into them. So I pulled out a tap to chase the threads. There was alot of crap in them and the sand blasting kinda buggered them up. Look at all the material that came out of them. Those are Metal Shavings!! Wackoooo

Now the Heim's go in like butter. Should be a piece of cake to do the alignment.

View attachment IMG_4418.jpg
 
Mad Dart said:
Think I am going to order the Comp Engineering Part#C2027

Only thing is now I am almost forced to cut out the spare tire well unless I can come up with a different configuration for my Dual Trans Cooler set up. Need to lay under the car and think for a bit more.

http://www.competitionengineering.com/catalog/images/c2027_inst.pdf

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-2027/?rtype=10
Click to expand...

Ok Louis, you get all that figured out so I can copy your work! I was always a good plagiarizing fool! But really, that looks like a nice anti-roll setup. Does any of that need to be TIG welded? I didn't see that in the instructions, but I didn't read them fully.
 
Nevermind, I read a little deeper and found it. "The next step we recommend using a tig weld process to achieve a small weld around the splined bushing to the torsion bar." Too bad you don't live any closer Louis! LoL
 
Well, I am taking a break from posting here to get my car done. Next time I post in this thread there will be a **** LOAD done to my car. Peace out, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
 
Mad Dart said:
Well, I am taking a break from posting here to get my car done. Next time I post in this thread there will be a **** LOAD done to my car. Peace out, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Click to expand...

Back At You !!!!!!!!!!!!:glasses7:
 
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