inline tube tells me they quit carrying the OE style
im hiding an adjustable one for my swap
Use the third one on the right of the picture at this link:
http://www.inlinetube.com/Prop Valves/BLK245.htm
It's the one for Disc/Drum and it will work with manual (no power booster), I know because it's what I'm using on my Demon with same brake set up.
Use the third one on the right of the picture at this link:
http://www.inlinetube.com/Prop Valves/BLK245.htm
It's the one for Disc/Drum and it will work with manual (no power booster), I know because it's what I'm using on my Demon with same brake set up.
What Demon 408 said is correct........ it should look like the one all the way to the right, ( lower portion of the valve look's like texas). From my understanding, Mopar had two different Disc/Drum combo valve's, one was made by Kelsey Haye's, can't remember who made the other type, but either should work. I do remember reading on mopart's about these valves, and they do sell rebuild kit's for both. I don't know who was selling them. Have you been having some trouble with your brake system, BEFORE you changed out to the newer style M/C?? Hope this help's.
For use on 1969-74 A-body Mopar with drum or disc brakes.
the blk250 is this the 1 it looks just like the 1 on the car
Yes, it's the BLK250. I don't know why Inline Tube has it in two places (under BLK245 as one of two options) and then by itself under BLK250.
Here's what's listed under BLK245: "For use on 1967-74 A-body Mopar with either disc or drum brakes. If your Mopar had drum brakes you had the valve to the right and maybe the texas shaped rear hold off valve. Some Mopar's had the texas shaped valve and the distribution combine into one valve so your car may only have one valve or the two separate pieces, see BLK250 for the one piece valve."
It's probably has a stuck valve (or valving) in the block, and is keeping the brake light on, or your losing pressure somewhere in the system.
Are you certain you have the adjustable rod deep enough into the piston
pocket? The best way I have found, is to use vernier caliper's, so you can check for depth. It's the only thing I can think of.
Moto it cost about 100 dollars including shipping. Had to replace mine in my Demon.i will call them monday and order 1
month maybe 2 now tech guy said the one i needed was prone to leak so they discontinued sale and were looking to replace with a new vendorWhen did this happen? I ordered one from them only a couple months ago?
1 day the brake light goes on changed m/c
bleed all the brakes put in a ajustable push rod
brakes feel bad spongey to much pedal travel
before the car stops
after all this light still on
If the valve is stuck and causing it sometimes you can free it by bleeding a wheel at a time while someone is pushing hard on it. The way we did it when I worked in muffler and brake shops was right rear then right front and you could hear it pop free. Did you bench bleed the new master cylinder and is it the same bore? If it is not bench bled it will be spongy.
i have a 73 up valve
i bought this 1
it does not look like mine