proportioning valve??
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Demon 408
Well-Known Member
Inline tube is were I bought mine:
http://www.inlinetube.com/New%20Products/new_products_Mopar.htm
Here's a link to the valve:
http://www.inlinetube.com/Prop Valves/BLK245.htm
http://www.inlinetube.com/New%20Products/new_products_Mopar.htm
Here's a link to the valve:
http://www.inlinetube.com/Prop Valves/BLK245.htm
Dodge33
Well-Known Member
I call it the split block..... down on the frame, but yes you can
buy them new from Inline Tube, in Detroit, Mich. don't know what they cost,
but they are available. We have them used, if you need it.
buy them new from Inline Tube, in Detroit, Mich. don't know what they cost,
but they are available. We have them used, if you need it.
Demon 408
Well-Known Member
Use the third one on the right of the picture at this link:
http://www.inlinetube.com/Prop Valves/BLK245.htm
It's the one for Disc/Drum and it will work with manual (no power booster), I know because it's what I'm using on my Demon with same brake set up.
http://www.inlinetube.com/Prop Valves/BLK245.htm
It's the one for Disc/Drum and it will work with manual (no power booster), I know because it's what I'm using on my Demon with same brake set up.
mrdodge69
Well-Known Member
When did this happen? I ordered one from them only a couple months ago?
For use on 1969-74 A-body Mopar with drum or disc brakes.
the blk250 is this the 1 it looks just like the 1 on the car
Dodge33
Well-Known Member
What Demon 408 said is correct........ it should look like the one all the way to the right, ( lower portion of the valve look's like texas). From my understanding, Mopar had two different Disc/Drum combo valve's, one was made by Kelsey Haye's, can't remember who made the other type, but either should work. I do remember reading on mopart's about these valves, and they do sell rebuild kit's for both. I don't know who was selling them. Have you been having some trouble with your brake system, BEFORE you changed out to the newer style M/C?? Hope this help's.
1 day the brake light goes on changed m/c
bleed all the brakes put in a ajustable push rod
brakes feel bad spongey to much pedal travel
before the car stops
after all this light still on
Demon 408
Well-Known Member
Yes, it's the BLK250. I don't know why Inline Tube has it in two places (under BLK245 as one of two options) and then by itself under BLK250.
Here's what's listed under BLK245: "For use on 1967-74 A-body Mopar with either disc or drum brakes. If your Mopar had drum brakes you had the valve to the right and maybe the texas shaped rear hold off valve. Some Mopar's had the texas shaped valve and the distribution combine into one valve so your car may only have one valve or the two separate pieces, see BLK250 for the one piece valve."
Dodge33
Well-Known Member
It's probably has a stuck valve (or valving) in the block, and is keeping the brake light on, or your losing pressure somewhere in the system.
Are you certain you have the adjustable rod deep enough into the piston
pocket? The best way I have found, is to use vernier caliper's, so you can check for depth. It's the only thing I can think of.
Are you certain you have the adjustable rod deep enough into the piston
pocket? The best way I have found, is to use vernier caliper's, so you can check for depth. It's the only thing I can think of.
i will call them monday and order 1
i will check thanks jj
I wish my wife had an adjustable proportioning valve.....
VitaminDemon
Well-Known Member
Moto it cost about 100 dollars including shipping. Had to replace mine in my Demon.
month maybe 2 now tech guy said the one i needed was prone to leak so they discontinued sale and were looking to replace with a new vendor
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
If the valve is stuck and causing it sometimes you can free it by bleeding a wheel at a time while someone is pushing hard on it. The way we did it when I worked in muffler and brake shops was right rear then right front and you could hear it pop free. Did you bench bleed the new master cylinder and is it the same bore? If it is not bench bled it will be spongy.
i will try this thank u
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Eddie that's the old style you usually see on drum brake cars. It will work on a drum/disc car but doesn't have a hold off valve for the drum side so it doesn't work quite as good.
Forgot to mention that the valve isn't really a proportiong valve. It is just a distribution block with a switch valve. The switch valve is a pressure sensing valve that senses when you loose pressure to a wheel from a blown line or cylinder/caliper. When it senses the pressure loss the valve inside is ofrced all the way to one side which turns on the light on your dash. It remains in that position untill a repair is made and you bleed the system. Generally bleeding the entire system is necessary to reset the valve, not just the wheel where the problem was. Even then it can get stuck some times and may need disassembled and cleaned or replaced. Looks like your replacing it so that should solve your issue.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
Any word yet?
CudaJunction
Well-Known Member
Something you might want to consider is leaving your stock 60 % front 40 % prop valve way better brakes than changing it out. Ive done this on my last 5 conversions ive done. Unbeliavable brakes. My 68 FRANKENDART 360 FI 518 OD has this set up manual disc. The harder you push the farther you want to go through the windshield.
adriver
Blazing Apostle
The more I read Inlines explaination, the more confused I get.
What they call a distribution block (250 on the right), Ive always called a proportioning valve.
Regardless.
Ive taken several of the ones on the right apart (250). I cant really cant tell how that switch works.
Its got a flush Philips head on the body. Thats all I can see.
Otherwise, there doesnt seem to be much about them to go bad.
It is all brass except for a spring and two little washers.
They usually arent bad.
There is an O-ring and a cupped seal on a plunger.
If you take the cupped seal out of the body (bore) WATCH OUT.
It will expand and you will play heck getting it back in.
If anyone does have a rebuild parts source, it would be nice to know.
What they call a distribution block (250 on the right), Ive always called a proportioning valve.
Regardless.
Ive taken several of the ones on the right apart (250). I cant really cant tell how that switch works.
Its got a flush Philips head on the body. Thats all I can see.
Otherwise, there doesnt seem to be much about them to go bad.
It is all brass except for a spring and two little washers.
They usually arent bad.
There is an O-ring and a cupped seal on a plunger.
If you take the cupped seal out of the body (bore) WATCH OUT.
It will expand and you will play heck getting it back in.
If anyone does have a rebuild parts source, it would be nice to know.
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