Turbo 383 in a A-body Barracuda

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CUUDAK said:
Took the wife shopping Sunday and forgot I left this one on the display when My Dad and I went to look at another 6.1 block Saturday. She smacked the hell outta me :),
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thats funny Hey got a question that paint you gave me what is it ,is it a lacquer, enamel, base coat for a clear or what was looking at PPG paint and they show that i can get QQ! in all three types of paint going to buy anther gallon also if i went to a base coat clear coat on the body can you give me some recommendations on what clear and what catalyst will work good
 
leathermandan said:
thats funny Hey got a question that paint you gave me what is it ,is it a lacquer, enamel, base coat for a clear or what was looking at PPG paint and they show that i can get QQ! in all three types of paint going to buy anther gallon also if i went to a base coat clear coat on the body can you give me some recommendations on what clear and what catalyst will work good
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QQ1 Poly Electric Blue, it is a urethane basecoat. It is Shopline base made by PPG. I was told by the reps that they can't mix DBC in that color. I asked why and couldn't get a straight answer. I don't see why the paint supplier can't use the "Profit" camera to get the mix formulation to make it in DBC. I gave you a full gallon which will make 2 gallons when mixed 1:1 with a medium reducer. It will take 3 coats to cover. Use a light gray sealer before you spray the base color so you get the right shade.

I used PPG 2021 to cut-in all the jambs, trunk and planned on using DC4000 Velocity Clear. I usually spray two medium coats of clear with 20 minutes flash time between each coat then over-reduce the remaining clear and spray a 3rd coat to aid in flow-out characteristics. Do it this way and it will flow like glass!! Make sure you have some kind of air movement to help the solvents flash off once your done spraying the last coat of clear.

You can also use DCU2055 if its still available. It also lays out nice! All depends on what you want to spend! When you buy the clear you usually get the activator with it. The speed of the activator will depend on how the weather is when you start to paint the Cuda. Most likely a medium temp activator will work in your area. Be sure to add a little reducer to help the clear to flow as well but follow the procedures recommended! Should be 2:1:1 on the clear. Its best to get the large gallon mixing jug too.

Just be sure you wear the right protection when spraying these clearcoats. Definitely a good respirator, rubber gloves and a decent body suit. That stuff will kill you in no time! I use a full-face respirator to keep the clear out of my eyes.

Make sure you have a quality gun. I use SataJet 2000 and love it! There are others that are good too! Devilbiss has decent guns that I use for spraying primers and sealers. Depends on what you have to spend!

Any more questions just let me know!!
 
ok thats definitely what i needed to know i already have a SADA 3000 gun that i'v been using to spray Harley's with it makes painting sooo much easier that sounds kinda weird about mixing the paint the web sight i was on has the formula's for all the PPG 1968 QQ1 paint showed enamel lacquer and a base coat clear

on anther note put power to my dash tonight and lit it up I really like how it turned out
 

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leathermandan said:
ok thats definitely what i needed to know i already have a SADA 3000 gun that i'v been using to spray Harley's with it makes painting sooo much easier that sounds kinda weird about mixing the paint the web sight i was on has the formula's for all the PPG 1968 QQ1 paint showed enamel lacquer and a base coat clear

on anther note put power to my dash tonight and lit it up I really like how it turned out
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That dash look fuggin' Sweeeeet dude!!!! Two thumbs up!!

Again, the paint you have is a urethane basecoat. Shopline by PPG. They may be able to mix it in laquer and enamel but don't use that over what I have already sprayed unless you seal it first.

I would stick with the basecoat that I gave you and get a quality clear such as the two I listed. If you do need more color just get the same Shopline.

By the way, the first time I had that gallon of QQ1 mixed it was way to light like B5 blue.

I had to get it darkened to match the original QQ1 color. You can spray a test panel cleared and get them to match up another gallon if you need it. That gallon I gave you cost me less than $100 at my shop cost!

Your clear is what you don't want to skimp on. It's the protection for the color coat. The better the clear, the longer it will last!
 
leathermandan said:
ok thats definitely what i needed to know i already have a SADA 3000 gun that i'v been using to spray Harley's with it makes painting sooo much easier that sounds kinda weird about mixing the paint the web sight i was on has the formula's for all the PPG 1968 QQ1 paint showed enamel lacquer and a base coat clear

on anther note put power to my dash tonight and lit it up I really like how it turned out
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The dash looks awesome...nice work.:D
 
so it turns out my new air fuel ratio gauge only works in conjunction with my AEM gauge that does not match my new stuff at all so been looking at all of the systems i can research and think this one is the one i'll get but really don't know if it is all that good won a bunch of awards at Sema so any one here use this gauge and what do you think its made by Prosport Innovate
 

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leathermandan said:
so it turns out my new air fuel ratio gauge only works in conjunction with my AEM gauge that does not match my new stuff at all so been looking at all of the systems i can research and think this one is the one i'll get but really don't know if it is all that good won a bunch of awards at Sema so any one here use this gauge and what do you think its made by Prosport Innovate
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Are you saying you have to use both gauges at the same time?
 
yep have to use both gauges the aem gauge sends the info to the speed hut gauge unless you have a separate controller the system i have the aem gauge is the controller
 
Why not just stash the AEM gauge in the glovebox??? I am wondering how it hooks into the AEM? Does it tie into the logging wire?
 
leathermandan said:
yep have to use both gauges the aem gauge sends the info to the speed hut gauge unless you have a separate controller the system i have the aem gauge is the controller
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Yeah I have the same 02 sensor as you and will be running the same gauge from speed hut. Maybe I will just run the AEM Gauge, Idk. Robert has a good idea also. you could stash the other gauge somewhere under the dash or Heck. mount it up front somewhere in the engine bay?? That would be pretty cool to see the AFR's when you are tuning the carb or when the hood is open. I am sure you could come up with a cool flush mount for it that would work.?? :dontknow:

Also, I got the package yesterday. I appreciate the lights you sent! :thumleft: Did you end up using the big lights or the small ones on yours?
 
Mad Dart said:
Yeah I have the same 02 sensor as you and will be running the same gauge from speed hut. Maybe I will just run the AEM Gauge, Idk. Robert has a good idea also. you could stash the other gauge somewhere under the dash or Heck. mount it up front somewhere in the engine bay?? That would be pretty cool to see the AFR's when you are tuning the carb or when the hood is open. I am sure you could come up with a cool flush mount for it that would work.?? :dontknow:

Also, I got the package yesterday. I appreciate the lights you sent! :thumleft: Did you end up using the big lights or the small ones on yours?
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I had to use the small lights they didn't leave any room on the backside of the dash on mine as it was i had to epoxy them in no room for even the nuts

i was also thinking like you to put the AEM gauge in the engine bay that might look good but it would sure make it easier to tune also
 
leathermandan said:
I had to use the small lights they didn't leave any room on the backside of the dash on mine as it was i had to epoxy them in no room for even the nuts

i was also thinking like you to put the AEM gauge in the engine bay that might look good but it would sure make it easier to tune also
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Yeah. Louis' idea is cool but the AEM isn't a sealed piece. The extreme heat and elements would most likely wreck it. Thats why I didn't buy the Innovate setup since the module was to be mounted under the hood. I read that it caused issues being out there in the heat and elements.

Another idea! I forget the actual size but get the correct holesaw and install the gauge facing the engine compartment in the firewall from the inside of the car. Get a tube of urethane and glue a piece of tempered glass or acrylic then mount the gauge. You could see it in the engine compartment but the gauge/module would be safe inside the car! Maybe over where the blower motor used to be??

I have flush mounted taillights in rollpans similar to this method with acrylic.
 
well what i did is buy a new air fuel gauge and a new boost gauge from Prosport there new evo line everyone says they work great with no problems, been reading every thing i can on them and cant find anything bad about them Prosport said it will take about 2 weeks to get them built


still have this brake kit for sale heres a link
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=219364
 
i still am considering putting the two extra gauges inside the engine bay i think i can just build a water tight box for them ill mount them right behind the scoop so it glows blue at night
 
not a lot to update but been working on the console for the car it was in bad shape the nose had been busted in several pieces the side had also been busted out were the original 4 speed block off plate had been installed the tail section was completely gone and i don t really know what it was originally supposed to look like but a fabed up a tail piece out of fiberglass and then fabed up a aluminum insert for it, the center section i also fabed up out of aluminum and mounted my toggle switched in that and installed the shift boot still have to upholster the arm rest and then carpet the console
 

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CUUDAK said:
I was told by the reps that they can't mix DBC in that color. I asked why and couldn't get a straight answer. I don't see why the paint supplier can't use the "Profit" camera to get the mix formulation to make it in DBC.
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Funny, that is the same answer I got when trying to get the LL1 for my cuda. "We can do it in OMNI" No thanks, give me black - ugh.
 
Rocky_JS said:
Funny, that is the same answer I got when trying to get the LL1 for my cuda. "We can do it in OMNI" No thanks, give me black - ugh.
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Yeah, stupid answer imo! I used the Shopline basecoat in the trunk and all the jambs and inner doors. It looks good but takes three coats to cover. The main thing is don't skimp on the clearcoat! Thats what protects the finish. I have painted several cars with the shopline and they still look the same as the day I shot them. I used DBC clearcoats.
 
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