Rusty floor pan!

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RustyRatRod said:
Well, isn't that just nice? You're also the first person who said this:




Now, in the words of Judge Judy, were you lying then, or are you lying now?

Oh nice Nova, btw.
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Read what I quoted in post 2 and my reply.

Panel bond is suitable for structural repairs and would be fine in this situation even if he was replacing a section, drivers floor for example.

Just need to ask, are you a professional, collision repair technician?

No need to get into a pissing match over this. He asked about an alternative to welding. A structural, automotive adhesive, used correctly, with the repair area prepped correctly, would be a safe alternative that will last the life of the car.

btw, Yes, my Nova is nice.

 
I've done it for a living for a short time, yes. I was merely pointing out what "I" would do.....which is what the OP asked for.......opinions. Seems to me one place you say one thingm the another something else and seem to insult some for differing....even though that's what you did in your first post. Yeah, I remember when you got that job. How's it goin? Well I hope.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
btw, Yes, my Nova is nice.

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that cuda is soooo sweet .....when i have a good dream during a good sleep i see that cuda in my dreams and i think "is this heaven" with a four speed i think it is. and my favoritest color of all time and those dogdishes on red lines MMMMMMMM
 
And ya'all need to play nice in here ...i am ASE certified in auto collision repair and refinishing and according to my instruction .....yes the adhesive would be approved for such a repair

However ...it is preference ....as i said before i would weld it.

but we are helping out a newbie with limited resources so its an option on the table. disgust
 
RustyRatRod said:
I've done it for a living for a short time, yes. I was merely pointing out what "I" would do.....which is what the OP asked for.......opinions. Seems to me one place you say one thingm the another something else and seem to insult some for differing....even though that's what you did in your first post. Yeah, I remember when you got that job. How's it goin? Well I hope.
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In my first post I quoted his pop rivet question. I told him that it wasn't a good idea for the area.

Then, someone suggested panel bonding. I agreed.

If you insist on having this petty, argument, get your facts strait.
 
I'd say weld it but on a similar completely made of aluminum note, lotus has been essentially bonding there cars together with screws and adhesives for years. What could go wrong?
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
In my first post I quoted his pop rivet question. I told him that it wasn't a good idea for the area.

Then, someone suggested panel bonding. I agreed.

If you insist on having this petty, argument, get your facts strait.
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X2... this stuff is stronger then welding.... look it up who ever disagrees :glasses7:

If you still disagree fine, but I will be doing All of my relacement with it... it seals and it is stronger when it is applied correctly
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
In my first post I quoted his pop rivet question. I told him that it wasn't a good idea for the area.

Then, someone suggested panel bonding. I agreed.

If you insist on having this petty, argument, get your facts strait.
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Ok,ok. So I made a boo boo. Now, can you answer my sincere question about how the new job is going or is all you know how to be negative?
 
memike said:
X2... this stuff is stronger then welding.... look it up who ever disagrees :glasses7:

If you still disagree fine, but I will be doing All of my relacement with it... it seals and it is stronger when it is applied correctly
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I didn't disagree. I simply said it's MY preference to weld. Is that ok by you?
 
The only problem I would see with bonding a floor panel in is the sheet metal work required to achive a bondline that is not too thick or thin.
Aircraft bondlines are .005 -.030" anything over .030 requires a hard shim, any bondline over .060" requires stress engineering to evaluate the bond...

I would recommend buying a patch panel, fit it the best you can, and take the car to a welding shop and have the work done.
Also check out local community colleges, high schools most offer welding / body shop classes maybe they would work on the car in for a small donation.
 
I've been restoring classic's since 1979, I run the resto part of the shop,The collision and in and out side is run by another guy he uses panel bond all the time, i've tried it but don't like it my opinion!! All my work is butt welded much cleaner and stronger IMO,
For all you old guy's out there remember working on Vette's bonding always coming apart?? So i say do it once and butt weld it, Again my opinion.
Here's a couple pic's of my pan i did at home.
Ed.
 

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Fred Flintstone didn't have any floor pans in his car and it was a unibody.
The show ran for several seasons without any problems......
Geez guys, lighten up!
My solution is to weld in sub frame connectors, glue the floor in and never worry about it again.
Now the welders and the gluers will all be happy.
 
Discussion is good.

I have a welder, that doesn't mean I am a welder. Something as important as the structural integrity of my vehicle will be entrusted to a professional welder not a bottle of Elmers. Just my humble opinion.
 
cuda65vpt said:
Discussion is good.

I have a welder, that doesn't mean I am a welder. Something as important as the structural integrity of my vehicle will be entrusted to a professional welder not a bottle of Elmers. Just my humble opinion.
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LOL, that's where the downfall of this discussion came from right there.

New products and new ways of doing things come along and sometimes change is hard to accept.

I was the same way when I saw this stuff used for the first time. We glued an entire roof panel on a Civic (or maybe it was an Accord).

I thought it was crazy but it was a repair procedure, approved by the manufacturer and I-Car.


Kind of like when CDs came out. I still like Records and think CDs suck. Don't even get me started on digital downloads.

Here is a quick link to basic panel bonding.
[ame]http://www.i-car.com/pdf/upcr/procedures/ab/ab01.pdf[/ame]
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Kind of like when CDs came out. I still like Records and think CDs suck. Don't even get me started on digital downloads.
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Having said that, you should be able to see where I'm coming from. Now, are you enjoying your job, or are you just going to keep being completely unsociable?
 
anyone ever seen " Are We Done Yet" ? Opinions vary, bonding is a viable option.
The op will choose, the one availible to him.
 
My first comment is we really need some pics to know whether the patch is even sufficient. Regardless which method you go with you need to remove any rot and avoid overlap that can trap moisture or it will eventually rust worse. Seal both sides after it is structurally sound.
I think all the 'right' ways are covered pretty good here. No doubt that welding it is the best, adhesives are probably good too, but are even more dependent on good prep and fit than welding.
That said... in my youngerdays, I metal taped, riveted in any old scrap of metal I could find and did all kinds of makeshift repairs just to get through inspections and keep beaters on the road. None of them ever fell apart, but I was not building high torque race machines either. No I am not suggesting that you do a cheesy repair!
Back to the original post If they used aluminum rivets, they would react with the steel over time. Steel rivets are a 'structural' fastener. Combine them with any good metal epoxy and you can fix this pretty solid. Again I am saying this could work for a few small repairs not suggesting it a 'good' way to build a car.
So, before you even start in like that. Where are you going with the build? Is there other stuff that should be welded? I know I asked myself that when I started mine and the clear answer was - Quit messin around and get a welder. Best decision I made...
 
You bring up galvanic corrosion and this is a good place for a reminder on that.

I'm sure thousands of cars are out there with cut up aluminum, road signs and aluminum pop rivet patches. That's a recipe for making things worse down the road.

Another mistake is mixing used abrasives or tools.

For example (and our cars don't really have aluminum to worry about but...)

If you use a body file on aluminum then use it on your steel hood, that nice paint job you put on that hood will more than likely fail in a few years.

The transfer of aluminum particles will cause galvanic corrosion under the paint. I should take some pics of the aluminum hood on my brothers Ford Explorer. It looks like it has a bunch of rust under the paint. Someone cross contaminated it during a repair.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
It is a career that I approach as a professional and I absolutely love it.
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Well I am super glad for you. I know yall have been through a lot in the past couple years. I think it's awesome you found something that not only you're good at (as evidenced by your experienced posts) but that you also love. You DO realize how rare that is? You are very blessed, my Nova loving friend.

LMAO
 
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