Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Seems to me (with my foggy memory) there was a guy....maybe a sponsor?...here that did TQ rebuilds and/or hop-ups & mods. Anyone remember who or what company? Thanks
TQ question
- Thread starter Captainkirk
- Start date
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AdamR
Big Member
Demon Sizzler. He doesnt post much anymore.
AdamR
Big Member
And Im gonna need another soon.
Don't forget me yall. I do um too
AdamR
Big Member
Ive got a pile of parts that use to be a thermoquad if your up for the challenge, LOL
EL5DEMON340
Well-Known Member
This guys the best if your wanting a restored one.
http://www.harmsauto.com
http://www.harmsauto.com
I can do it. Provided you're willin to supply the kit and any pieces missin.....which I may have.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
How do the TQ's stack up against Holleys and Eddy Performers in the performance theater? I've always run Holleys and know how to tune them, but something about those mammoth secondaries intrigues me. Anyone running one on a performance motor, and would you recommend it over a Holley, Eddy, Demon or other performance carb?
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
This guy right here.
They stack up better, IMO. I have run a piss load of them. I think they're the best carburetor ever made. That's how it is. You either love them or hate them. PLENTY of stock eliminator records have been set and broken over the years with the TQ. IF they have a shortcoming, it is their primary metering system. In engines with a low vacuum signal (big cam) the metering rods get confused at idle because the vacuum signal goes away. So, they tend to bounce at idle and they do not idle very crisp.....but they still work fine everywhere else.
There's a seller on Ebay called ninja fuel systems that sells tuning kits for TQs that include different springs. That might be a cure. I have also seen people REMOVE the metering rod piston spring altogether, though I have never tried it. For a dual purpose mild to moderate build, they simply cannot be beat. They do have a learning curve regarding tuning, but once you see what everything does, they are easy to understand. They are one of few carburetors that can run just as well on a slant six as a 440 with only minor tuning mods. Also since their primaries are so small, they can get unbelievable gas mileage on the street with mild gearing.
I have to agree. I've run them on 273's, 340's and my 383. Performance wise they can be breathtaking when those secondaries come on. They have a spring loaded secondary air valve that can be infinitely adjusted to perfectly open for your engine (no power valves). I have sold all my Holleys.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
I've been running a large overlap/duration cam with fairly high comp. pistons (11.5:1) and a Torker with a 650 DP. It runs very strong. This current build will likely use a similar cam and same pistons (maybe a bit less compression). The Torker/Holley combo provided a fairly low vacuum signal (if memory serves, around 10-12" at idle) I'm guessing I should try to pair the TQ with a good dual plane if I use it to boost the signal?
X's 3 and what the two above posts said.
And here's more;
With big cams, the metering rod spring can be removed since there is a cam to activate the rods upwards motion regardless. The other primary short coming is the lack of adjustable air bleeds. This is a custom job Demonsizzler used to do. This is a mod for big cams.
Tuning parts can be very hard to come by. I didn't know about the above guy Rusty mentions. You can bend AFB rods 3/4 of an inch from there regular bend to approximate the TQ rod length. Then Trim the bend to fit.
The choke can be a challenge to get working since it uses a choke welled bi-metallic spring with the rod going upward from the intake manifold to the carb. A manual choke cable can be adapted. It is a pain to do but with some thinking and creative work, it's a go.
(There is a small primary electric choke version out there. It may not be a MoPar throttle arm though. The TQ was also sold as a aftermarket/replacement carb. Ford used a TQ for 1 year only FWIW.)
I would suggest a TQ manual for the set up, though I'm sure Rusty will take care of that chore, just to be sure and aware of where and what everything should be and why. Once set up there excellent.
The adjustable secondary air door is a big plus. The AVS also has this. I like a good OE AVS! When the TQ replaced the AVS, it was an air bleed mixing carb. The. Next year and all there after are solid fuel units that should be used.
There is also a race version of this carb rated at 1,000 CFM's. It also, is not a solid fuel unit. It also uses press in jets like the first year TQ IIRC. It lacks a ring around the primary booster and the primary bore is huge and straight through. No taper. Kind of like the 800 CFM AVS.
Normally I pick these carbs for cheap and rebuild them myself.
I have run Holley's OE carbs, Edelbrock's etc,,,, and find the TQ my favorite street, street/strip carb.
It may or may not be the carb for you. Only one way to find out if it fits.
And here's more;
With big cams, the metering rod spring can be removed since there is a cam to activate the rods upwards motion regardless. The other primary short coming is the lack of adjustable air bleeds. This is a custom job Demonsizzler used to do. This is a mod for big cams.
Tuning parts can be very hard to come by. I didn't know about the above guy Rusty mentions. You can bend AFB rods 3/4 of an inch from there regular bend to approximate the TQ rod length. Then Trim the bend to fit.
The choke can be a challenge to get working since it uses a choke welled bi-metallic spring with the rod going upward from the intake manifold to the carb. A manual choke cable can be adapted. It is a pain to do but with some thinking and creative work, it's a go.
(There is a small primary electric choke version out there. It may not be a MoPar throttle arm though. The TQ was also sold as a aftermarket/replacement carb. Ford used a TQ for 1 year only FWIW.)
I would suggest a TQ manual for the set up, though I'm sure Rusty will take care of that chore, just to be sure and aware of where and what everything should be and why. Once set up there excellent.
The adjustable secondary air door is a big plus. The AVS also has this. I like a good OE AVS! When the TQ replaced the AVS, it was an air bleed mixing carb. The. Next year and all there after are solid fuel units that should be used.
There is also a race version of this carb rated at 1,000 CFM's. It also, is not a solid fuel unit. It also uses press in jets like the first year TQ IIRC. It lacks a ring around the primary booster and the primary bore is huge and straight through. No taper. Kind of like the 800 CFM AVS.
Normally I pick these carbs for cheap and rebuild them myself.
I have run Holley's OE carbs, Edelbrock's etc,,,, and find the TQ my favorite street, street/strip carb.
It may or may not be the carb for you. Only one way to find out if it fits.
If your going to use a aftermarket dual plane, then my two choices would be a Weiand Action Plus or a LD-340 that has been carved to adapt the TQ to fit.
The 2 single plane intakes would be a Holley Strip Dominator or a MoPar M1 single plane.
(I'd be shocked if you found a Offenhouser (sp?) Port-o-sonic with a spreadbore for sale. In which they are sold new at a really hefty price.)
The low vacuum signal should be addressed with lighter springs on the center rod.
The 2 single plane intakes would be a Holley Strip Dominator or a MoPar M1 single plane.
(I'd be shocked if you found a Offenhouser (sp?) Port-o-sonic with a spreadbore for sale. In which they are sold new at a really hefty price.)
The low vacuum signal should be addressed with lighter springs on the center rod.
DionR
Well-Known Member
You could do what I did and build a bracket to mount the aftermarket TQ choke setup if you don't have the choke well in your manifold.
Anyone know where to find a new choke cover though? Apparently they are made of unobtainium.
Something else to be aware of though is the transfer wells in the bottom of the fuel bowl. They can leak and cause problems. Rusty, do you have a way of repairing them?
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Cool...tons of good info here! The reason I never used the TQ to begin with was the goofy choke/high idle garbage as the Torker I bought had no choke spring well. My engine only needed the choke on the Holley for starting; not warm-up or running, so the thought of a thermostatic choke didn't sit well anyway.
Not sure which manifolds have choke wells or are spreadbore manifolds. I would be tempted to run the stocker port-matched and the divider cut down if it weren't for the weight. Which SB manifolds work well with the TQ? BTW, I do have an adapter plate, just not hyped on using it if I don't have to.
I see a couple posts were added as I typed...mine was outfitted for the thermostatic choke rather than the electric one shown.
Not sure which manifolds have choke wells or are spreadbore manifolds. I would be tempted to run the stocker port-matched and the divider cut down if it weren't for the weight. Which SB manifolds work well with the TQ? BTW, I do have an adapter plate, just not hyped on using it if I don't have to.
I see a couple posts were added as I typed...mine was outfitted for the thermostatic choke rather than the electric one shown.
The reason the choke cover is unobtanium is because on a TQ with electric choke, the choke spring coils backward from anything else, so no other cover will work.....with some real creative thinking. I don't know anywhere that sells them. Every now and again, a TQ electric choke kit will pop up on ebay and I try to snag it. I also try to snag entire TQs with electric choke if their price doesn't get too crazy. I have a few.
The fuel wells are easy to fix. I use a 2 part epoxy to cement the well bottoms back that is resistant to gas and oil. I know people say they use JB Weld successfully, but JB will let loose in gasoline over time.
The fuel wells are easy to fix. I use a 2 part epoxy to cement the well bottoms back that is resistant to gas and oil. I know people say they use JB Weld successfully, but JB will let loose in gasoline over time.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Would the single planes have a weaker vacuum signal?
And would this help make up for it?
The car would NOT be a daily driver.....more of a car show thing and a tear-em-up toy. No strip time, likely, either.
Most of them were. The electric choke TQs are rare. I have a few. I try to get them when I can. The only ones that ever came from the factory with electric chokes were from Ford.
The others were never factory provided. They were aftermarket versions from Carter called Superquads. They were made from about the late 70s through the 80s. There were four numbers. Two for Chrysler and two for GM/Ford. 9800S, 9801S, 9810S, 9811S. The 9810 and 9811 were the Chrysler numbers, but the others can be used on a Chrysler with the correct throttle linkage adapter. All four of those Superquad numbers had electric chokes.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Rusty, are there certain mods you do to a TQ for street/strip application that you would recommend?
DionR
Well-Known Member
Yep, that's what I concluded also. I did find a cover on NAPA's website that might work, but I didn't want to spend $80 or more to find out if I was right. Spend quite a while looking at covers there, and there are a fair amount that are coiled correctly, but I don't know if they would work. I did find one off a Ford with TBI (why it has a cover, I will never understand) and is shown in the picture on the car. It didn't seem to have enough tension, but I was having other problems with my choke so it might be ok. Got it to work with the old cover I got off the carb, but I would feel better with a better one.
I wish it was that easy. The TQ is one of those carburetors that's best to adjust everything to factory spec when you build it and then tune it to the running engine. They are extremely dynamic carburetors. You can tune the secondaries completely out if you want and make it a 2 bbl or tune so the secondaries dump wide open or anywhere in between.......and make the engine take it. Since they rely so much on engine vacuum and each engine I different, that's the best approach I've found.
I've found this to work the best for me also. But my cars tend to be more steet than anything else. International Harvester also had OEM TQ's. If I remember correctly they had electric chokes. In general Big block TQ's are richer than small block TQ's and Original HP TQ's are a better place to start when setting up a HP engine. But all of them can be made to run great. I'll also second the "two part epoxy" for the well plugs. Not saying something else won't work, but that is what I use, and have had no problems.
Now that is clever! Good Job!
EL5DEMON340
Well-Known Member
The 72 to about 74 or 75 TQUAD are best. The 75, 76 truck quads are good also because lack of EPA junk, jets can be found for them or you can take stock ones and drill out. That said there are a few racers that swear the 71 and early 1000 quads are slightly better. I have 4 of the 71's and the ultra ultra rare jet and rod kit for them, but I haven't run one yet so can't say first hand. Big key is to make sure the center section is not warped and is square, and when seting up use the factory spec to start and do them in the order specified in the FSM. If anyone needs the jet drilled LMK
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