Help convince me to go BB in my Duster?

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hammer down the lip where the trans tunnel and fire wall meet and shove it in there. do it or your scared
 
Sounds like you've all made up your minds, but I'd go for a stroked small block. That is my plan as soon as possible. They are lighter, they will drive better, and you can get a ton of power out of a stroker. Unless, of course, you just want a big block. they do look cool.
 
harrisonm said:
Sounds like you've all made up your minds, but I'd go for a stroked small block. That is my plan as soon as possible. They are lighter, they will drive better, and you can get a ton of power out of a stroker. Unless, of course, you just want a big block. they do look cool.
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Yeah I looked into a 408 stroker, but the money just isnt here at the time haha
 
Expire said:
So far I definitely will need disc brakes, a rearend and driveshaft, and was going to do torsion bars regardless. Do I need to modify the K-member?
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I had to grind my /6 ears down and drill new holes, no big deal. Total cost with you having a motor, resealing, header, install kit, exhaust, rad around 1500 or close. If you have a 8 1/4 it will hold up to 450hp or so. 7 1/4 take it out.
 
harrisonm said:
Sounds like you've all made up your minds, but I'd go for a stroked small block. That is my plan as soon as possible. They are lighter, they will drive better, and you can get a ton of power out of a stroker. Unless, of course, you just want a big block. they do look cool.
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Stroked small block is worth comparing. You get big block cubic inch and power in a lighter package. Slightly lighter... Again, a stroked small block IMO IS COMPARABLE to a big block.

What do you mean drives better though?
 
halifaxhops said:
I had to grind my /6 ears down and drill new holes, no big deal. Total cost with you having a motor, resealing, header, install kit, exhaust, rad around 1500 or close. If you have a 8 1/4 it will hold up to 450hp or so. 7 1/4 take it out.
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Yeah, when the time comes I'm going to try to do a lot of it through a trade since I won't have the cash amount in a while. But I do however have my current /6, 2 Cragar wheels (unknown condition atm), and a pretty solid BMW e28('83 528e) shell with a busted motor. Thats gotta be worth at least a little bit! haha


Edit:
Since this thread didn't die yet, anyone have a link to all the accessories I will need? Do i need an MSD Ignition kit, or can I use a stock 440 ignition, dist, sparkwires and plugs?
 
You just need an electronic ignition distributor for the engine you get. It might even have it already. It will plug right into your duster harness and your good to go. You shouldn't have to do anything with the wiring.
 
Expire said:
Do i need an MSD Ignition kit, or can I use a stock 440 ignition, dist, sparkwires and plugs?
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I'd recommend an MSD with a rev limit. I've used 2 digital 6 units and I really like those. They let you have 2 rev limits and a timing retard.

While I haven't used one the HEI units seem to have a good rep.

I'd stay clear of the orange box, chrome box etc. Can they work? Yup.. Antiquated technology though and every car I've had one on has failed me at some point. Wither the box failed or the ballast resistor let go. MSD eliminates the BR.
 
roccodart440 said:
I'd recommend an MSD with a rev limit. I've used 2 digital 6 units and I really like those. They let you have 2 rev limits and a timing retard.

While I haven't used one the HEI units seem to have a good rep.

I'd stay clear of the orange box, chrome box etc. Can they work? Yup.. Antiquated technology though and every car I've had one on has failed me at some point. Wither the box failed or the ballast resistor let go. MSD eliminates the BR.
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Does MSD run a kit package of everything I should need to get it running?
 
Expire said:
Does MSD run a kit package of everything I should need to get it running?
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Not sure. You need a distributer and a box.

I'd recommend the pro billet dizzy and the digital 6 box but any box with a rev limit will work.
 
The 6201 replaced the 6200 from what I'm seeing. If you look it's right on the line, that applies to the one above.
 
It sounds to me like you are on a budget. You don't need all that **** to get the car running. It can be upgraded later on down the road. I spent a good amount of money putting a viper trans in my car at the same time as an engine swap. There is no cheap way to that trans swap, so the rest of the engine swap was done on a budget. I already built cars buying good parts along the way and it was time to do something different.

Just So you can relate, I started with a slant 6 74 duster, luckily it had factory discs as an 8 1/4". It had electronic ignition fom the factory. While trans took all kinds of unique parts and fabrication I just dropped the BB in, I honestly used the original 1974 electronic ignition box tht was in the duster. Yes I even re used the original 1974 coil. It all worked so why not. I've had sever B engines through the years so I had stock electronic distributor. Weather it came in the 400 or not, I dont know. Probably. I ditched the huge 100 amp police alternator, and guess what? Used the same 1974 slant six alternator that had been working all along. I still to this day am using the factory original 1974 battery cables.The slant 6 wiring harness has everything in the right place for a bb swap. No extending wires. At some point I had parted a car that had an MP chrome ignition box and blaster coil so I eventually swapped that in. I honestly noticed no difference in my application. I have driven this car up and down the east coast. Yeah I have replaced some of that stuff along the way. I put a new higher amp alternator in before a road trip to Florida. Last year on a trip to ocean city Maryland that alternator took a crap. Has about 8,000 miles on it. In the trunk I had the original 1974 alternator, I swapped it in a supermarket parking lot and went on our way. I keep a used but good ballast resistor, fuel pump, ignition box, coil, alternator, and distributor in a tool box in the trunk all the time. It all fits along with some other mis labels things to hopefully get me back up and going on the side of the road. New parts can fail too.

Like I said I have built other cars with top notch parts, full rebuilds... When I wanted to build this car my priorities had changed, I knew I could still build a cool car and have fun so I just went about it a little differently. We have taken I on family vacations, drive it to work, fishing, to the beach, store, where ever. You don't need to dump 10,20, 30,000$ into a car to have fun.
 
jamesdart said:
It sounds to me like you are on a budget. You don't need all that **** to get the car running. It can be upgraded later on down the road. I spent a good amount of money putting a viper trans in my car at the same time as an engine swap. There is no cheap way to that trans swap, so the rest of the engine swap was done on a budget. I already built cars buying good parts along the way and it was time to do something different.

Just So you can relate, I started with a slant 6 74 duster, luckily it had factory discs as an 8 1/4". It had electronic ignition fom the factory. While trans took all kinds of unique parts and fabrication I just dropped the BB in, I honestly used the original 1974 electronic ignition box tht was in the duster. Yes I even re used the original 1974 coil. It all worked so why not. I've had sever B engines through the years so I had stock electronic distributor. Weather it came in the 400 or not, I dont know. Probably. I ditched the huge 100 amp police alternator, and guess what? Used the same 1974 slant six alternator that had been working all along. I still to this day am using the factory original 1974 battery cables.The slant 6 wiring harness has everything in the right place for a bb swap. No extending wires. At some point I had parted a car that had an MP chrome ignition box and blaster coil so I eventually swapped that in. I honestly noticed no difference in my application. I have driven this car up and down the east coast. Yeah I have replaced some of that stuff along the way. I put a new higher amp alternator in before a road trip to Florida. Last year on a trip to ocean city Maryland that alternator took a crap. Has about 8,000 miles on it. In the trunk I had the original 1974 alternator, I swapped it in a supermarket parking lot and went on our way. I keep a used but good ballast resistor, fuel pump, ignition box, coil, alternator, and distributor in a tool box in the trunk all the time. It all fits along with some other mis labels things to hopefully get me back up and going on the side of the road. New parts can fail too.

Like I said I have built other cars with top notch parts, full rebuilds... When I wanted to build this car my priorities had changed, I knew I could still build a cool car and have fun so I just went about it a little differently. We have taken I on family vacations, drive it to work, fishing, to the beach, store, where ever. You don't need to dump 10,20, 30,000$ into a car to have fun.
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I'm on a decent budget I would say, but I don't want to have no-name parts that will break on it? Like I said, original plan was a 318 and build it up, but became open to the BB. I just want something fun for street and if it makes it there, fun for strip. Not trying to build a show quality 440 that makes xxxx hp, but I do want to build something I'll be happy with that won't put me in debt.

Being 21, I have a couple debts here and there, but I pretty much paid off my current car and paid all my student loans, so I have a little room to play around.


Edit: I know some of the parts I listed are optional upgrades, I'm just looking for a list of everything I would possibly need to run the BB (not even moving it at the point) just to start it and idle. I understand I'll need a larger rear end before actually driving it.
 
Here's my budget built 400. Honed, new rings, small cam, previously rebuilt and lightly used 906 heads, used performer intake, ductile iron adjustable rockers, I tried th thermoquad carb but I couldn't get it to workout for me. Went with a used rebuilt holley 750 vs.

 
jamesdart said:
Here's my budget built 400. Honed, new rings, small cam, previously rebuilt and lightly used 906 heads, used performer intake, ductile iron adjustable rockers, I tried th thermoquad carb but I couldn't get it to workout for me. Went with a used rebuilt holley 750 vs.

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Looks good man, How's the pick up on it?

But yeah I just want a list so I don't say, buy the engine, then realize I need a 5k iginition system or something dumb like that, that potentially screws me over.
 
Expire said:
But yeah I just want a list so I don't say, buy the engine, then realize I need a 5k ignition system or something dumb like that, that potentially screws me over.
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These cars logged millions of miles with the factory ignition. For a starting point, I would just go that route. MSD fancy pants stuff can be added down the road.
 
Bad Sport said:
These cars logged millions of miles with the factory ignition. For a starting point, I would just go that route. MSD fancy pants stuff can be added down the road.
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When people sell 440s, do they usually include all of that stuff? Is the 440 ignitiosn different than my duster's /6?
 
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