Help convince me to go BB in my Duster?

-
gotta agree with jamesdart on all his points.. K.I.S.S (keep it simple stupid)

no need for fancy ign systems and **** like that.. like stated all that crap can be changed/upgraded as money allows down the road..
 
abodyjoe said:
check junk yards. a friend picked one up with 3.73 gears and disc brakes for $200 out of a local yard. an explorer should be easy to find.
Click to expand...

Will hit up pick apart soon, before it's winter.

Are they stamped? how can you tell the gear ratios?
 
I'm probably one of the very few that would say NO to the 440 I did it and I wish I would have went with a 5.9 magnum instead but that may be due to using an automaticn I haven't had one in a muscle car for years I like the extra pedal
 
dodge71demon said:
I'm probably one of the very few that would say NO to the 440 I did it and I wish I would have went with a 5.9 magnum instead but that may be due to using an automaticn I haven't had one in a muscle car for years I like the extra pedal
Click to expand...

My family was never really into cars and when learning to drive 4-5 years ago my mom was dead against me getting a manual just because I do a lot of city driving. I learned a while back but I was never "great" at it, so I would just rather run an autotragic because at least then, I know I can drive the car and don't have to worry about refreshing my self on a manual after the winter or whatever lol
 
i googled it and a jeep forum had this info.. the explorer 8.8 is a common jeep cherokee swap..


looks like you look at the door decal to tell..

look at th eletters/numbers under "axle"


IMGP0505b.jpg

Explorer 8.8 Axle codes

43 Open 3200 3.08
41 Open 3200 3.27
42 Open 4.10
46 Open 3.73
45 Open 3200 3.55
D4 Limited Slip 3200 3.73
D2 Limited Slip 4.10
L73 Limited Slip 3.73


Specs:
Code Capacity Ratio
43 Open 3200 3.08
41 Open 3200 3.27
42 Open 4.10
46 Open 3.73
45 Open 3200 3.55
D4 Limited Slip 3200 3.73
D2 Limited Slip 4.10
L73 Limited Slip 3.73
L - Limited Slip Differential
C - Conventional Differential
Code Ratio
41 3.27
43 3.08
42 3.45
44 3.73
45 3.55
47 4.10
72 3.08C
74 3.45C
82 3.08C
84 3.45C
85 3.55C
86 3.73C
87 4.10C
89 (1992-1998) 4.10C
89 (1999-2001) 4.56C
91 3.27C
92 3.08C
95 3.55C
96 3.73C
97 4.10C
F4 3.45L
F5 3.55L
F6 3.73L
F7 4.10L
K6 4.10L
D2 3.45
D4 3.73L
D7 4.10
R5 3.55L
R6 3.73L
R7 4.10L
 
Yes they have a tag that reads the gear ratio and if there is a trac lok. You can also read the sticker in the doorjamb I believe which will also tell you
 
Expire said:
Good to know Doos, are the motorhome 440s worth it? I feel like they are under a lot of load for their mileage.

Also, I've found a couple 440s/trans for around 4-600 but like I said, I'm not currently in the market quite yet.

Unrelated, is the 727 the Auto trans for the 440? Or does it still run a 904?
Click to expand...

I'm comfortable with motor home or truck 440s. Best bet is to try and find one you can hear run and make an assessment of the condition. If you can't hear it run you should steer clear of any engines that are outside exposed to the elements. You can also pull a valve cover and have a look. Heavy sludge indicates neglect. Nice and clean or very little sludge is a good sign. Also you will need a different oil pan and pickup tube to drop it into a car. The truck engines have a front sump if I remember right. You need a center sump for a car. The one I sold was ready to rock. I told the buyer if he was going to tear it down he'd be better off looking for a rebuildable core for less money. My guess is with headers it would make about 325,hp with 450 torque. That's enough to have lots of fun.
 
I did not read this entire thread so someone may have already told you this. The only way to run a 904 with a big block is either with an adapter plate or by cutting the bellhousing off the 904 and installing a JW ulrabell bellhousing 904 to big block. Same thing if you want to use a 727 from a small block. The small block and big block have different blot patterns. Your best bet is to get a big block 727.
 
This might help.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ft0SD7AaHHk"]Big block Duster vs supercharged late model Challenger - YouTube[/ame]
 
dude slap a friggin' 440 in that thang man!!!!!!

building a 318 is a waste of $$$ if you look at it from a dollar-per-hp standpoint because everything you can get for a 318 you can get for a 360 and end up with more HP due to the additional 42cu" and it doesnt seem like youre one of those guys that is specifically into 318s (of which there are definitely some, but even theyll tell you that it makes more "sense" to build a 360 if your main goal is making HP)

now back to 440 swaps...

- with the Schumacher conversion kits a 440 swap is completely a non-pain-in-the-*** kind of deal. You just have to make sure you buy the entire kit, not just the motor mounts. Even more true is this statement if youre talking about a "B" motor swap (383, etc)

- do NOT waste your time putting an 8-1/4 behind a 440 (ESPECIALLY if you plan on using a Big-Block A-Body for whats its good for) - youll break it in no time. An 8-3/4 is pretty much mandatory (unless youre putting the car together for the show circuit which it doesnt sound like thats what youre doing)

- that Roadkill episode where Dulcich has to butcher that header is completely non-relavant to your situation... Frieburger accidentally ordered those TTI headers not realizing they didnt work with an RB (440) block in an A-Body. The Schumacher headers that come with their kit work with a 440 AND power steering if you so desire. I can personally confirm that because thats what i have... a '70 440-Duster with their full conversion kit and it fits totally fine.

theres a zillion big block C-bodies and Trucks out there for cheap to use as a donor car so the availability is totally there and when youre talking about HP per dollar, any speed part you put on a big block will give you more HP / speed than putting that same part on a small block.

so unless youre building a "G-Machine" and youre gonna swap the motor anyway, the question really becomes why NOT go with a big-block swap?!?!?!

good luck!!!!!
 
greazerlou said:
dude slap a friggin' 440 in that thang man!!!!!!

building a 318 is a waste of $$$ if you look at it from a dollar-per-hp standpoint because everything you can get for a 318 you can get for a 360 and end up with more HP due to the additional 42cu" and it doesnt seem like youre one of those guys that is specifically into 318s (of which there are definitely some, but even theyll tell you that it makes more "sense" to build a 360 if your main goal is making HP)

now back to 440 swaps...

- with the Schumacher conversion kits a 440 swap is completely a non-pain-in-the-*** kind of deal. You just have to make sure you buy the entire kit, not just the motor mounts. Even more true is this statement if youre talking about a "B" motor swap (383, etc)

- do NOT waste your time putting an 8-1/4 behind a 440 (ESPECIALLY if you plan on using a Big-Block A-Body for whats its good for) - youll break it in no time. An 8-3/4 is pretty much mandatory (unless youre putting the car together for the show circuit which it doesnt sound like thats what youre doing)

- that Roadkill episode where Dulcich has to butcher that header is completely non-relavant to your situation... Frieburger accidentally ordered those TTI headers not realizing they didnt work with an RB (440) block in an A-Body. The Schumacher headers that come with their kit work with a 440 AND power steering if you so desire. I can personally confirm that because thats what i have... a '70 440-Duster with their full conversion kit and it fits totally fine.

theres a zillion big block C-bodies and Trucks out there for cheap to use as a donor car so the availability is totally there and when youre talking about HP per dollar, any speed part you put on a big block will give you more HP / speed than putting that same part on a small block.

so unless youre building a "G-Machine" and youre gonna swap the motor anyway, the question really becomes why NOT go with a big-block swap?!?!?!

good luck!!!!!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, yeah, after some thinking, I'm definitely considering it, I have been putting off looking under neath at the frame rust. The car is pretty worn, so I wouldn't be surprised if the frame was too. I don't want to drop 200lbs more in, then shake it all apart, you know?

I think the plan is going to be have the motor swapped, disc brakes, and a rear end by March. As well as replace worn parts along the way.
 
If 200lbs will break your car you have bigger issues than what engine will go in it. That's less than having me a passenger with you.
 
roccodart440 said:
If 200lbs will break your car you have bigger issues than what engine will go in it. That's less than having me a passenger with you.
Click to expand...

I don't know man, myself and all my friends are pretty lanky/lightweight..

But in all seriousness, I know for a fact it all has at least surface rust. The torsionbars are coated (but those would get replaced anyways).

I have about a foot wide hole that needs patched in the trunk on the passenger wheel well. The whole car seems pretty sturdy though. I'm going to be pulling carpet and things on friday to look for floor pan issues.

If no rot, the plan is to sand off all the rust on the frame and coat it in some rust reducer/preventer, if rot, I need to figure out if I need to find a welder friend who can make housecalls or something, and get it patched.
 
Really the thing that would most likely affect your chassis would be power and traction, not weight.

Clean the bottom of the car and see what you're working with. put subframe connectors in no matter what and weld them. At least weld the ends. You can add tack welds to any of the seams etc. Replace any bad areas.
 
roccodart440 said:
Really the thing that would most likely affect your chassis would be power and traction, not weight.

Clean the bottom of the car and see what you're working with. put subframe connectors in no matter what and weld them. At least weld the ends. You can add tack welds to any of the seams etc. Replace any bad areas.
Click to expand...

Just something like this? But instead of bolting I weld them?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4286868/overview/make/plymouth/model/duster

Yeah it sounds like this winter is going to be putting a running 440 in and reinforcing the car.. fun! lol

So assuming everything isn't rotted, if it's not going to be moving under the power (yet) I could wait on adding the subframe connectors? and other reinforcement? Or should I still have those in before I drop the block in?
 
Expire said:
Just something like this? But instead of bolting I weld them?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4286868/overview/make/plymouth/model/duster

So assuming everything isn't rotted, if it's not going to be moving under the power (yet) I could wait on adding the subframe connectors? and other reinforcement? Or should I still have those in before I drop the block in?
Click to expand...

I would bolt them in first, then weld. It just makes it easier. But yes, you could just weld them in.

I would do the connectors before I drop any engine into that car.
 
roccodart440 said:
I would bolt them in first, then weld. It just makes it easier. But yes, you could just weld them in.

I would do the connectors before I drop any engine into that car.
Click to expand...

Alright I'll add it my list, is there any other reinforcing I should look into?
 
..................................pictures speak volumes.........2 of mine past and present....
 

Attachments

  • eng4.jpg
    39.1 KB · Views: 175
  • 10580236_10152658683992498_3006675437233184599_n.jpg
    63.2 KB · Views: 178
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top