Help convince me to go BB in my Duster?

-
If you have to be convinced, don't bother. The worry about suspension and brakes comes from people who grew up driving modern suspensioned cars. A 440, all iron, weighs about the same as a slant six car with 5 passengers. Not great for slaloming or the quickest to stop, but not dangerous. You can always add mods later as you wish. But like Joe says - it all bolts in. You just have to buy more stuff because they are different.
 
moper said:
If you have to be convinced, don't bother. The worry about suspension and brakes comes from people who grew up driving modern suspensioned cars. A 440, all iron, weighs about the same as a slant six car with 5 passengers. Not great for slaloming or the quickest to stop, but not dangerous. You can always add mods later as you wish. But like Joe says - it all bolts in. You just have to buy more stuff because they are different.
Click to expand...

Convince was the wrong word. I guess it was more "I'm told it won't work with a ton of custom fab, is this true?" Regardless, I'm pretty sold on it, so hopefully this winter I'll stuff one in!
 
Like I said the people you are hearing that crap from are idiots.

It's a bolt in deal. The 727 will bolt right to the existing crossmember. Get the right motor mounts and you are good to go. Headers are the biggest decision.


Few upgrades are recommended but they are bolt on also. I'd go bigger torsion bars if it's mainly a street car. If it doesn't already have disc brakes I'd put them on.
 
abodyjoe said:
Like I said the people you are hearing that crap from are idiots.

It's a bolt in deal. The 727 will bolt right to the existing crossmember. Get the right motor mounts and you are good to go. Headers are the biggest decision.


Few upgrades are recommended but they are bolt on also. I'd go bigger torsion bars if it's mainly a street car. If it doesn't already have disc brakes I'd put them on.
Click to expand...

So far I definitely will need disc brakes, a rearend and driveshaft, and was going to do torsion bars regardless. Do I need to modify the K-member?
 
Expire said:
So far I definitely will need disc brakes, a rearend and driveshaft, and was going to do torsion bars regardless. Do I need to modify the K-member?
Click to expand...

I drove mine for over a decade with drums. The rear can be an 8.75 or a dana. You definitely don't need to run bigger bars. I ran .870 bars for the life of the suspension. Now I have an RMS and rocket here is running my bars and suspension. The Kmember will need a slight cut of its a 67-72 style. Not sure what mods are needed for spool mounts but I know the swap is still a bolt in deal.
 
What is the "Goal" for the car?
street cruiser, street /strip ?
look at the total package

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=309711

I tried to make a list of what I parts I had
and what I needed
after 2 years, started stripping the car, getting it ready for a BB
i'm almost finished with the fuel lines and trans line today
hope to hear it run soon,
then off to the Exhaust and alignment shop.
 
Expire said:
So, I have a '74 Duster, who through a friend of a friend, can get a pretty solid 318, which would get built to 300-350, which would of been fine, but now I think it wouldn't be as enjoyable, or I'd always want faster?

I was looking into a 440 swap but everyone I know is telling me that it won't work, too much fabrication, front end will sag. Also is this too adventurous for a first-time motor swap? (i'd probably try to find one one CL that comes with trans, motor, msd, etc etc)

What all do I need for going BB?

I know through just common sense, I would need at least an 8 1/4 rear end, and from watching that one episode of Roadkill, I know I'll have some problems with the headers.

Is there a lot of fabrication into bracing the front end? Or would it just be heavy duty torsion bars? Do I need to mess with the trans tunnel?

My checklist so far (regardless of BB or SB):
- Schumacher Motor Mounts
- Heavy Duty Torsion Bars
- 8 1/4 rear end
- Some fabrication for the Headers
- MSD or some other ecu?
- disc brake conversion


Thanks for the help guys!
Click to expand...


I'd upgrade to the 8.75 rear, with a sure grip or other locker. And some Caltracs or super stock springs. otherwise, looks good.


and as far as convincing goes....

No Replacement for Displacement. Machining and parts for the most part almost the same regardless of 318 or 440, sometimes the 440 parts are cheaper, sometimes the 318 parts are cheaper, but in the end, you either have a 318 maxed out or a 440 that probably isn't.....and that has a heck of a lot more torque.
 
roccodart440 said:
I drove mine for over a decade with drums. The rear can be an 8.75 or a dana. You definitely don't need to run bigger bars. I ran .870 bars for the life of the suspension. Now I have an RMS and rocket here is running my bars and suspension. The Kmember will need a slight cut of its a 67-72 style. Not sure what mods are needed for spool mounts but I know the swap is still a bolt in deal.
Click to expand...

I know on the schumacher kit to go from /6 to RB, youve got to cut and drill the mount ears on the /6 k.
 
draginmopars said:
What is the "Goal" for the car?
street cruiser, street /strip ?
look at the total package

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=309711

I tried to make a list of what I parts I had
and what I needed
after 2 years, started stripping the car, getting it ready for a BB
i'm almost finished with the fuel lines and trans line today
hope to hear it run soon,
then off to the Exhaust and alignment shop.
Click to expand...

Overall, street, maybe see a few times at the strip, but mostly a streetable fun car.
 
Expire said:
Convince was the wrong word. I guess it was more "I'm told it won't work with a ton of custom fab, is this true?" Regardless, I'm pretty sold on it, so hopefully this winter I'll stuff one in!
Click to expand...

I agree with abodyjoe, I was told the same thing, you'll also hear crap about weight. a 440 is only 120 lbs heavier, stock for stock than an LA small block. you can lighten it pretty easy and depending on budget, can get it under the weight of a stock small block with much more power. Aluminum intake, headers, alum. water pump and there's 40-50 lbs, go aluminum heads and theres another 70-80 off.
 
What's to convince? It's a total bolt in swap that gives tire melting performance at much lower RPM than a small block. Plus it will slam fill the engine bay up. That always looks nice.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
I agree with abodyjoe, I was told the same thing, you'll also hear crap about weight. a 440 is only 120 lbs heavier, stock for stock than an LA small block. you can lighten it pretty easy and depending on budget, can get it under the weight of a stock small block with much more power. Aluminum intake, headers, alum. water pump and there's 40-50 lbs, go aluminum heads and theres another 70-80 off.
Click to expand...

I was planning to at this point: Before next summer

-Engine put in (whichever one I choose)
-Painted body or at least close to painted

-Pick up interior pieces along the way

Then since its running and looking good, start building performance.


------

So as I mentioned, this would be my first swap and it would probably be done from info from forums like this and maybe a book, so will this be do able as a first time swap?
 
Nothing like a big block!! You may want to put frameties in. Just in case you decide to get a little crazy with your right foot on the gas!!!
 
Expire said:
Great, thanks for the help everyone! Hopefully sometime this winter season I can come back and say I now have a 440 duster!
Click to expand...

Do not do what I did and let the rear tire pressure to 15 and release the line lock at 100 at the spedo, 50 works fine! Beer was involved of course!
 
halifaxhops said:
Do not do what I did and let the rear tire pressure to 15 and release the line lock at 100 at the spedo, 50 works fine! Beer was involved of course!
Click to expand...

Mine is sitting on some nice slashed tires for all corners, and is being supported by some fancy cinderblocks at the moment.. I think I'll be okay through winter haha
 
Expire said:
Mine is sitting on some nice slashed tires for all corners, and is being supported by some fancy cinderblocks at the moment.. I think I'll be okay through winter haha
Click to expand...

so is mine....and it'll be that way for at least another 2-3 winters.....
 
On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most difficult as far as swaps, the 440 into an A body would be about a 2. Easy
 
Doosterfy said:
On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most difficult as far as swaps, the 440 into an A body would be about a 2. Easy
Click to expand...

Even for a first timer? Who may or may not have access to an engine hoist? haha...

What would you say the scale is price wise based off of just what I need to run it, so don't include disc brakes.
 
Even for a first timer? Who may or may not have access to an engine hoist? haha...
Click to expand...

first few engines i did i did it with a come-along hanging from a large branch..:)

What would you say the scale is price wise based off of just what I need to run it, so don't include disc brakes.
Click to expand...

depends what you get with the motor..

motor mounts are what 170 ish?
correct oil pan- not cure how much. can usually find for decent price used..

exhaust will be the most expensive thing.. headers are not cheap no matter what brand you go with
 
abodyjoe said:
first few engines i did i did it with a come-along hanging from a large branch..:)



depends what you get with the motor..

motor mounts are what 170 ish?
correct oil pan- not cure how much. can usually find for decent price used..

exhaust will be the most expensive thing.. headers are not cheap no matter what brand you go with
Click to expand...

I'll pm you the motor I found on CL, I think it has all the accessories
 
what year is your car? what kind of budget? it can be done for cheap depending on what you want out of it. your talking about 40 year old engines that "run". I would find a runner, pull it apart and just go through it. hone, rings, bearings, summit cam and timing chain, lap the valves new seals and springs, shim head gaskets. go for tti or Schumacher headers. also go through the trans. why go through all this effort to swap in the unknown. I'm not saying it has to be perfect, big $$$ build, but if you have a cracked ring or burnt valve or something why not fix it. have a chance at getting a solid reliable 15-20,000 miles out of it with no smoke or leaks. there are some other options for the rear too. ford explorer 8.8" is an option. ive been running one for a while.
 
jamesdart said:
what year is your car? what kind of budget? it can be done for cheap depending on what you want out of it. your talking about 40 year old engines that "run". I would find a runner, pull it apart and just go through it. hone, rings, bearings, summit cam and timing chain, lap the valves new seals and springs, shim head gaskets. go for tti or Schumacher headers. also go through the trans. why go through all this effort to swap in the unknown. I'm not saying it has to be perfect, big $$$ build, but if you have a cracked ring or burnt valve or something why not fix it. have a chance at getting a solid reliable 15-20,000 miles out of it with no smoke or leaks. there are some other options for the rear too. ford explorer 8.8" is an option. ive been running one for a while.
Click to expand...

It's a '74 duster, at this moment, I could say that I could probably spend 2-400 on it every 2-3 weeks. (moved out and rent payments blow). I would probably be refreshing all of the gaskets and giving it a good run through before even installing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top