1965 dart charger 273

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Urgerman said:
Ya it's a dual point. I kind of understand the single point but not the dual. Do u need to add the dwell in a dual point like if it's at 17 you go 17+17=34 can anyone explain a simple way sorry for the question kind of new to all this
Next question is it better to go electronic distributor
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With a dual point you disconnect one set at a time set the dwell on the set connected then do the other set while the one you just did is disconnected. Never set dwell with them both connected.
 
Dual point u set each side to 36 dwell and combimed it usuall drops to about 30
 
Overlap is why you have dual points ie better spark and dont float out until higher rpms than a single point.
 
Ok so let me see if I have this right set the timming to 14* and set each point for about 36
 
What an interesting and rare car. Very cool project. Congrats on the find. I also recommend take your time and restore it to original. I think we would all love to see pics of the car as the resto progress's.
 
I really thank you all for the help I will do it this weekend will let you all know how it goes
 
Yes I bought the car. I think if I get all the body work done it will be a good looking car when it's done just sad to see what they did to some of it but I will do my best to fix and make it look good. Shofar I been getting a lot of help from everyone on here wich is Kewl
 
chewy said:
Oh, and a paper match stick is enuff to block off one side at a time.
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Yeah that would work.

Back in the day when I had a 67 273 Commando, I just tore off a small piece of paper and put that between each set of points one at a time to check the dwell with the engine running. It was nothing more than a corner torn from a piece of ordinary paper.

As I think about it more is coming back to me. I used to rotate the engine to get to the exact high point on the distributor cam to set the point gap by pushing down on the alternator belt and turning the fan blade with my other hand. It was a very precise way of doing it. As I did it more and more, I got pretty good at setting the points. I was going through 2-3 tankfuls of gas per week so it had to be done a couple times a year.
As you increase the point gap, it decreases the dwell reading and vice versa. I used to have the point gap and dwell memorized but it's been too long since I thought about it. The point gap range, individual point dwell and cumulative dwell were in the FSM. I was kinda jealous when GM put a little window in their distributor to adjust the dwell while running using an allen wrench.
 
As you do the body work, the original rear valence had a notch cut-out for the resonator.
Here is a picture of the resonator (shown on a 67? W /notched transmission support, i.e. better for dual exhaust systems)

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=197334

This was a unique system, and worthy of several noise tickets.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/archive/index.php/t-241571.html

1965 was a year where the straight through muffler appears to have been used initially as part of this 273 HiPo (Power Pack[or Pak?]) system. The 273 HiPo engine was standard on the 180 factory Dart Chargers, 300 dealer kit car Dart Chargers (select GT's w/31 engine code) and formula S Barracuda (I believe), and optional on other Valiant, Dart and Barracuda models except station wagon. The parts manual changed in Nov. 1964 so I don't know if the straight through (louder) muffler was switched then to the 1965-1967? version.

Anyway, that is what the rear valance notch was for. The original Dart Charger single exhaust was adequate for many applications, and had its own unique sound. Another cool part of the car's history!
 
What's the best place to buy rear leaf springs and u-bolts. A buddy said jegs or like clasic car industry. Do u all have a place you like to get your parts from.
 
Well I have bad news for me I just found out I may have to sell my 1965 dodge dart charger 273 let me know if anyone is interested
 
Keep at it. Make a list. Doesn't all have to be done at once.
 
I've had two 65 Dodge Darts. Bought my first one in 1966. It had a little over 10,000 miles on it and was in perfect condition. It came with the spring yellow paint, black vinyl top, white and gold interior with 273 HiPo engine with 4-speed and 7.25 open rear with 13" Cragar mags. The mags had chrome rims, but the aluminum spokes were polished, not chrome. Best time in the 1/4 mile was 14.71 with cheater slicks. Chrysler must have replaced 5 spider gears and I replaced 2 diffs after the warranty ran out. I beat every GTO 4 barrel, 325horse SS396 Chevelle and every Mustang except the 271 hp cars, and they only got me by a 1/2 car length or so. No automatic HiPo Dart or Barracuda ever beat me in the 1/4 at Phenix Dragway in Phenix City, AL.
My current 65 Dart is a Dart Charger built in December 1964 at the LA plant. I'm in the process of restoring the car but have put 15" Cragars on it, Wilwood front disc brakes, all new suspension with front and rear sway bars from PST as well as a 8.75 limited slip 3.55 diff. I'm just wrapping up a rebuild on a 340 to install in place of the badly worn 273. I'm also converting it from an automatic to an 833 which I rebuilt myself. It's attached to a Gearvenders overdrive so I can cruise comfortably on the street.
Purists may dislike the decisions I've made to a real Dart Charger, but it's my car and I'll do what I wish with it.
 
65ChargerDart - your car looks great. I like the dual cut outs. I did that when painted. Left the single exhaust on mine, for now. I am switching to the dual circuit brakes, finally. I think mine was a street racer. Most mods are bolt on, even Sebring seats. My car was a 65 with the dealer kit. Arkansas car, in black with white top and interior. When you bought your first one, was it a loud version? Straight through exhaust? They said the dealer would pay for the noise ticket? The four speed had to be tough on the 7 1/4.
 
65ChargerDart said:
I've had two 65 Dodge Darts. Bought my first one in 1966. It had a little over 10,000 miles on it and was in perfect condition. It came with the spring yellow paint, black vinyl top, white and gold interior with 273 HiPo engine with 4-speed and 7.25 open rear with 13" Cragar mags. The mags had chrome rims, but the aluminum spokes were polished, not chrome. Best time in the 1/4 mile was 14.71 with cheater slicks. Chrysler must have replaced 5 spider gears and I replaced 2 diffs after the warranty ran out. I beat every GTO 4 barrel, 325horse SS396 Chevelle and every Mustang except the 271 hp cars, and they only got me by a 1/2 car length or so. No automatic HiPo Dart or Barracuda ever beat me in the 1/4 at Phenix Dragway in Phenix City, AL.
My current 65 Dart is a Dart Charger built in December 1964 at the LA plant. I'm in the process of restoring the car but have put 15" Cragars on it, Wilwood front disc brakes, all new suspension with front and rear sway bars from PST as well as a 8.75 limited slip 3.55 diff. I'm just wrapping up a rebuild on a 340 to install in place of the badly worn 273. I'm also converting it from an automatic to an 833 which I rebuilt myself. It's attached to a Gearvenders overdrive so I can cruise comfortably on the street.
Purists may dislike the decisions I've made to a real Dart Charger, but it's my car and I'll do what I wish with it.
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I Think the 15" Cragars will fill the Wheel house perfecrt! Shot some pictures for us! Of cause you shood do what you want to do with your car! Every mans right!
 
Reason for I need to sell the car is just don't have the time and money to put in the car. I rather sell it and let someone els enjoy making this car beautiful again. I would love to but at this point in life I can. So if anyone is interested let me know thank you all.
 
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