Front wheel bearings! What am i missing?

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BIG-B-Barracuda

BIG-B-Barracuda

Well-Known Member
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Dec 25, 2011
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Location
CALIFORNIA
1968 barracuda 440
8 3/4 rear sure grip 727
front 73 A-body big bolt pattern disc brakes.

so after years and years of great enjoyment my Shark took a dump. (if we are being honest.... Another dump) feels good once we get her fixed and going though. haha
Driving down the 57 freeway felt what i first thought was a flat tire pulled over everything looked good so took the first exit very slowly and cautiously. Pulled up to a gas station inspected the car and everything seemed fine, drove towards my house at slow speed then started to hear a 'clunk clunk clunk' pulled over to another gas station jacked her up removed the front passenger tire and to my surprise my caliper was loose I removed the center cap and notices that what used to be a outer bearing no longer was but a mushed up piece of metal so hot it fused to my wheel spindle.

long story short.

BILL & ED's in Fontana CA has a spare 73 A-body passenger spindle. i will purchase this on the weekend.

BUT FOR NOW.
took her apart and put new bearings. (GRINDED OFF THE ONE THAT FUSED ON TO THE SPINDLE)

Though i have a feeling i missed something because when i finished putting her back together i took her for a drive down the street and because the passenger wheel spins clock wise like the center tightening nut does to get tighter its catching the nut and tightening on the bearing till there is no bearing left. (SMASHED)

what am i missing? i was looking online and there is a washer that i do not have. (spindle lock washer) is this my issue? or am i over tightening the center nut? or are my bearing not pressed all the way in?


HELP please.
 
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I believe there should be a lock washer. If you are missing that, it would allow the bolt to back off. I'm certain someone who knows more than I will chime in with some info
 
i thought so, about that washer but am i just lucky that its been okay this whole time with out it?

crazy
 
You need these. They lock the nut. You should have a cotter key hole in the spindle that locks the washer. When you torque the nut and apply the washer it may not line up with the key hole, so back it off to line it up. Its a bit of dance. It will makse sense when you do it.
Capture.JPG
 
You need a castle nut and a cotter pin, so the nut don't turn. Snug nut for barring preload and then back off to first hole and put cotter pin in.
 
Sorry to hear you are having problems, my advice is to take the other side apart and not only inspect the bearings but you will also see what you are missing. This way you can be confident both sides are in good working order. gnr
 
if i back the nut off, wont that loosen the rotor and shake?

any one have any photos of this? installed ready to go?
 
BIG-B-Barracuda said:
if i back the nut off, wont that loosen the rotor and shake?

any one have any photos of this? installed ready to go?
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Its a dance and judgement call. If you have to back it off, grab the rotor and do the wheel bearing test, shake it, shake it good! If sloppy tighten. There are a lot of variables that can effect the pre-load. The nut is a fine thread so backing it off doesn't change much. You can also overload the bearing (as you've seen).
 
I like em where any play (click when grabbing the top of the rotor and shaking it in and out) just goes away and no tighter.
Zero play and zero preload.
 
I tighten the nut as I turn the rotor and bang on it with the palm of my hand. This helps remove and play whatsoever. Then when the nut has removed every bit of slack, I tighten it down to the first or second slot it lines up with, depending on how it feels. I like a tad bit of preload on tapered roller bearings.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I tighten the nut as I turn the rotor and bang on it with the palm of my hand. This helps remove and play whatsoever. Then when the nut has removed every bit of slack, I tighten it down to the first or second slot it lines up with, depending on how it feels. I like a tad bit of preload on tapered roller bearings.
Click to expand...

Yea, well you are doing it wrong. :D

Really I have noticed a lot of people do it like you do, and I also do the "spin it while tightening" to get all the play possible out of it.
I spin it clockwise, you? LOL
 
Dumb question
On the front outer bearing does the sleeve got in first or does the bearing go in first?
 
from a bare spindle we are looking at -

rear bearing
then sleeve the rotor
the outer sleeve and outer bearing then
washer castle nut then retainer then cotter pin?
 
Sleeve? There is no sleeve. Rotor: Drive outboard and rear bearing outer cups into rotor/ hub. Pack bearing CONES. Drop inboard cone into rear cup, and install grease seal. Install rotor onto spindle.

With outer cone properly packed insert outer cone, then keyed washer, then nut, and adjust, and finally, add castlated cap and install cotter pin.

READ THE SHOP MANUAL
 
Been doin it my way since 1975 with no problems. Ain't changin now. lol
 
By sleeve, you are probably referring to the bearing race.
From the back side to the front side: seal, inner bearing, race. Rotor. Race, outer bearing, washer, nut (may be a castellated cap) cotter key, grease cap.
C
 
BIG-B-Barracuda said:
I am still getting used to this new website set up.
how do i find the manual on here?
Click to expand...


Read. Read post no 14. The link is right there. Ya know guys SOMETIMES ya need a "real" computer. Not a 2x4" smart phone, and not a 7" tablet. You need a real computer. something with a keyboard, and a screen big enough to see
 
I work 24/7 i am very limited to what i have to use.

also very limited in my learning sessions i get from you all.

i appreciate the patience
 
BIG-B-Barracuda said:
I work 24/7 i am very limited to what i have to use.

also very limited in my learning sessions i get from you all.

i appreciate the patience
Click to expand...

I live near you in Chino....Sunday I might have some time to come over and help you sort it out...
PM me if you want.

Jeff
 
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