I would not worry too much about it... assuming you're gonna fire it back off as soon as you are done.Also. I’m seeing a lot of condensation coming out of my air compressor end. Should I be using a water separator or is the condensation ok going into the cylinder?
Are you leaning towards "not sure it's a seal issue"?Well I have hit a snag. Can’t get the air QD in on the #5 or 7 cylinders due to the headers. Gotta grab some nylon rope to try the rope trick.
However, all these seals I’m taking off are basically new. I have started to skip the exhaust seals. I’m not sure this is my issue.
Well I have hit a snag. Can’t get the air QD in on the #5 or 7 cylinders due to the headers. Gotta grab some nylon rope to try the rope trick.
However, all these seals I’m taking off are basically new. I have started to skip the exhaust seals. I’m not sure this is my issue.
They are umbrella. Mancini Racing Valve SealsThose do not look like umbrella seals. Do you know if they were installed with protective sleeves over the valve ends first? A little burr will mess up what looks like a Teflon seal to me.
All the seals were basically new. None showed any signs of wear and they were all pliable.
Next step is to take it to my mechanic for a leak down test.
Here is a video of the play the valve stem has in the guide. I’m not sure if this is within tolerance or not.
Could that play be the source of my oil smoke issues?On a cast iron guide that is just about as loose as I'd run it without a positive seal.
I've not typically seen heavy oil smoke like you reported from your tests on page 2 of this thread just from guide wear. Your guide wear is what I would call moderate. But I can not 100% rule it out; we all see new stuff everyday!
No smoking with hard throttle would typically rule out rings; it all points to the intake tract. I'd still be more inclined to look at the intake gaskets.
BTW, back on page 2 when you tested with no PCV and had lots of smoke under downhill deceleration, was the PCV just gone and the hose to the carb sealed off, or was the hose to the PCV still in the valve cover? Just checking to make sure I understand the test and what the results mean.
I removed the PCV from the valve cover but left it attached to carb since my tuning was setup with the additional air coming from the PCV.
I’m not sure how it could still be the intake gaskets as they are new with proper ultra grey around the ports.
Gotcha.... just thinking what is most likely. Very good on the PCV test setup; that took it out of the picture. Let us know if the seals help.I removed the PCV from the valve cover but left it attached to carb since my tuning was setup with the additional air coming from the PCV.
I’m not sure how it could still be the intake gaskets as they are new with proper ultra grey around the ports.
Well 4 times since owning the car for a year and half, not for this issue.Dang, 4 times? You sure the bolts are torqued enough? I would probably be frustrated enough at that point to go buy a bore-scope to check the intake seal... Drive it and decel down a long hill and after it starts smoking for a bit just pull over and put the scope down the carb.
Was this last test also with the PCV disconnected?
valve guide looks a little loose to me.On a cast iron guide that is just about as loose as I'd run it without a positive seal.
Is your PCV on the passenger or drivers valve cover?Well 4 times since owning the car for a year and half, not for this issue.
The PCV is connected and was connected for the last test. I figured it wasn’t an issue since it smoked with or without.
PassengerIs your PCV on the passenger or drivers valve cover?