Oil burn cloud on engine deceleration

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Super wet on the head side. I’m wondering if my pass through plates caused the issue. This is the first time I have ever run them.
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WSUTARD said:
Ok, what do you guys want pics of? I removed the intake. Looks like a ton of oil on the gaskets and intake surface.


I haven’t pulled the gaskets off the head yet. Was waiting for pic requests. Also, birthday party to go to.
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man, there is oil everywhere. why does the pic of the intake look like it has a gasket on it? Is the sealing surface of the intake flat? because it doesn't look flat. Also, you look like you could use a valley baffle, that might cut down on some of the oil flying around in the valley. I think Milodon, or somebody like that makes them. Judging from what I'm seeing, I don't think the manifold is sealing properly. bolt it up sans gasket to one head and then measure the gap on the other side in lots of places Then do it again on the other head. Don't use silicone on the intake bolts threads, use permagasket, no2, I think. It comes in a little white plastic bottle with a brush built into the cap. It's thickish brown, tarry looking stuff.
JC, do you run a high pressure or high volume oil pump?
 
rustycowll69 said:
man, there is oil everywhere. why does the pic of the intake look like it has a gasket on it? Is the sealing surface of the intake flat? because it doesn't look flat. Also, you look like you could use a valley baffle, that might cut down on some of the oil flying around in the valley. I think Milodon, or somebody like that makes them. Judging from what I'm seeing, I don't think the manifold is sealing properly. bolt it up sans gasket to one head and then measure the gap on the other side in lots of places Then do it again on the other head. Don't use silicone on the intake bolts threads, use permagasket, no2, I think. It comes in a little white plastic bottle with a brush built into the cap. It's thickish brown, tarry looking stuff.
JC, do you run a high pressure or high volume oil pump?
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The black gasket you are seeing on the intake is the right stuff I used around the water jackets on the head. I used permatex thread sealer on the intake bolts. There is a bit of it on the bolt hole in one of the pictures. This was the first time I used the gasket you see. I’m going back to the FelPro 1213 I normally use.

Should I ditch the crossover block plates?
 
Are you using the rubber manifold-to-block end seals? They can cause problems letting the manifold settle all the way down if the block or heads have been milled even a little bit.
 
C130 Chief said:
Are you using the rubber manifold-to-block end seals? They can cause problems letting the manifold settle all the way down if the block or heads have been milled even a little bit.
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If you look at the thread #72, he used the right stuff on the end rails.
 
WSUTARD said:
Ohh I’m going. Gona watch my Cougs beat up on some Ducks! GO COUGS!
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It looked like a Duck, smelled like, and played like, what a quack. quack quack say's the Duck fan. AND
It looks like you found the oil plume mystery. easy fix
 
Those type crossover blockers are sketchy for sure. Tried that on a BB once and did not work well! Always had some oil seepage that either went in the valley or got pulled into the center bores.

First thing is you started with two breathers only yes, and the blocker(s)? It does not take long for positive pressure to start pushing gaskets, the longer they cure it may lengthen that. PCV helps from the start! It does more than just evacuate unwanted blow by and such and keeps that positive pressure from doing the damage.

They make gaskets specifically to do the crossover block don't they? I Seem to remember installing gaskets of that type on my brothers 340 back in the late 80's that were blocked in the design. My BB blockers are built into the valley pan (no holes)!
 
Update for everyone. I still have smoke (blue) building during deceleration.

As everyone knows, I installed new intake gaskets FelPro 1213. I used a super thin spread of ultra grey around all the ports between the heads and the gasket as well as between the bottom of the gasket and the heads. I also put a thin strip along the bottom of the gasket and intake but did not put ultra grey on the intake side as the gaskets already had blue seals. I used right stuff for the China walls.

Since I’m still getting the smoke I am going to move on to replacing the valve seals and checking out the guides. Will update everyone once I get that done.

Another day, another dollar, spent. Ugh.
 
WSUTARD said:
Update for everyone. I still have smoke (blue) building during deceleration.

As everyone knows, I installed new intake gaskets FelPro 1213. I used a super thin spread of ultra grey around all the ports between the heads and the gasket as well as between the bottom of the gasket and the heads. I also put a thin strip along the bottom of the gasket and intake but did not put ultra grey on the intake side as the gaskets already had blue seals. I used right stuff for the China walls.

Since I’m still getting the smoke I am going to move on to replacing the valve seals and checking out the guides. Will update everyone once I get that done.

Another day, another dollar, spent. Ugh.
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Well that blows, I mean sucks.
Good luck with it, and I hope that's all it is.
Which trick are you going to use?
Heads on with air, string, piston at TDC?
Heads off?
 
TrailBeast said:
Well that blows, I mean sucks.
Good luck with it, and I hope that's all it is.
Which trick are you going to use?
Heads on with air, string, piston at TDC?
Heads off?
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I’m going to do it with the heads on.

nm9stheham said:
I believe that is Hot Cars Lesson 102 .... it's part of a series LOL
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It’s just pushing me towards building a 440.

Now I have a stuttering/delay issue with the carb when I give it a good amount of throttle.
I didn’t change anything about the carb so it might be a timing issue. I thought I put it baxk exactly where it was set but forgot to check it.
 
Anyone know how much pressure I should use on the air compressor to keep the valves up when changing the seal? I don’t want to overdo it
 
WSUTARD said:
Anyone know how much pressure I should use on the air compressor to keep the valves up when changing the seal? I don’t want to overdo it
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You can't over do it with any civilian compressor I know of.
 
I used rope the one time I changed valve seals with the heads still on since I didn't have a compressor at the time, takes a lot longer but you can smack the springs as much as you need to get the valve locks loose. Just my $.02, not sure on the psi for air but I would figure 100 psi or more to make sure the valves can't pop open if the locks are sticky? My methods may not be correct anyway lol, should be a way to free up the locks beforehand...
 
I've used 120psi in the past using my compressor. You can bring the piston up close to the plug hole, so if the valve ever dropped you can grab it easily.
 
Need help with the seals. I have 8 of each of the following. I have only done #1 and 8 but so far it looks like both exhaust and intake have the tall seal on them. How should I arrange my seals since I only have 8 tall 8 short?

The seals I have taken off so far look newer and with no damage and still playable. However they do have oil on the inside of the seal.
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70Duster440 said:
Short on exhaust, tall on intake.
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Thanks. I used the tall on the #1 and 8 exhaust since that is what came off the car. I am going to reuse two of the old ones since they basically look new and so I don’t have to redo the 1 and 8 exhaust
 
Also. I’m seeing a lot of condensation coming out of my air compressor end. Should I be using a water separator or is the condensation ok going into the cylinder?
 
The intake valve stem seals are the ones that really matter anyway because they have vacuum pulling on them when the engine is running; the exhaust ports have positive pressure so it's much less likely for oil to get pulled down past the guides. All the umbrella-type seals do is deflect oil from splashing straight onto the valve stem, just like an umbrella lol.

If the old seals still have some squishi-ness to them they're probably OK to reuse on the exhausts. When I did the seals on my old 318 they crumbled apart like some cheap hard plastic. Take a close look at all the intake seals you pull off too, might be able to spot a "smoking gun" for your issues.
 
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