Too bad you didn't come here first, a few things to mull over for next time......
OIL.........
I personally do NOT like putting grease of any kind in the pump other than maybe a "small smear." Instead, prime the entire engine with a drill and a drive shaft down into the distributor hole. You can buy these or make them. I forget, 5/16 or 3/8 hex drive On a SB you turn CW
WHEN STARTING to prime, leave the oil filter OFF. This provides an open passage, relieves all head pressure off the pump, and a visual indication. Crank the engine or start your drill for a VERY short time. The pump should prime in about 1 second. Now fill the filter with oil and install it
Monitor next with an open hose installed at the oil sender hole, into a pan or bottle. When you get oil there, install a gauge. I use my cmpression tester, which has a quick connect, makes that easy
Next wait for the drill to bog, and turn or have someone turn the crank slowly to line up the cam oil holes. There are two postions of the crank. This will get oil to the top end.
Once you have oil to the rockers, you are done
TIMING.......As mentioned above, there are TWO methods of determining if the no1 cylinder is ready to fire.
If the valve covers are off, bring the timing marks up to TDC and look at the no1 and no6 valves. One pair will be closed and the opposite will be about equally open between intake and exhaust. Be careful here, you can get fooled
Otherwise, stick your finger into the no1 plug hole and crank or wrench the engine around normal rotation, CW/. At some point you will start to feel compression.
Now watch for the timing marks to come up, and do NOT set them to TDC. Instead set them to "where you want" initial timing to be set, and give it plenty of advance. A dead bone stock 273/ 318, maybe 10-12 degrees BTDC. A mild cam or stock 340, maybe 15. A fairly wild cam, maybe 20 degrees
Now install the dist, with the body rotated so the vacuum advance has "some movement" between firewall and intake manifold. If you have an original distributor, and properly installed the drive gear by the book (slot fore and aft, pointing to the far left front intake manifold bolt) then the distributor should have the rotor pointing "by the book" to the no1 dist. hole. THIS DOES NOT ACTUALLY MATTER
Now RETARD the dist. body (cw on a SB) and advance it back (CCW) until the points open, or the reluctor is centered in the pickup coil. WHEN YOU GET GOOD AT THIS you can actually move the dist back and forth with the ignition powered, and generate a spark as you move the dist. past the 'trigger point.' You can rock this back and forth and get the timing pretty close.
Plug the no1 wire in where the rotor points, and install the remainder of the plug wires
YOU CAN ALSO hook a timing light up and run it on the starter to set intial timing.
IF YOU DO THIS correctly, the engine will instantly fire if it has fuel. I've "test fired" engines with this method and NO carburetor, simply fuel "down the throat" from a squirt can