340 oil pressure? Help

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Ryan ekes

Ryan ekes

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Ok guys I finally got the freshly rebuilt 340 in the cuda wired up and ready to go and when I started it my oil pressure was around 15-20 on a cold start idle and up to 45 around 2000 rpm. I'm running 10-30 and the majority of people are saying this is super low on a fresh motor and something isn't right. All thoughts, experiences, advice and pointers will be greatly appreciated thanks
 
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It's fine oil pressure for a stock volume pump. Why in the WORLD would you let a NEW engine IDLE cold? File that under S for stupid.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It's fine oil pressure for a stock volume pump. Why in the WORLD would you let a NEW engine IDLE cold? File that under S for stupid.
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Because I'm still learning is the best answer I got and I went from starting it letting it idle for a second to working up to 2000 rpm to see what the oil pressure was . Didn't know I wasn't supposed to do that
 
Seems a little low to me as well. What is it warmed up at idle? 10w30 is light IMO.
 
Ryan ekes said:
Because I'm still learning is the best answer I got and I went from starting it letting it idle for a second to working up to 2000 rpm to see what the oil pressure was . Didn't know I wasn't supposed to do that
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When you fire a fresh engine, with a flat tappet camshaft, you need to keep RMS up to promote cam break in. Other wise you take a BIG risk of ruining a new cam, engine. 3000 RPm to break in. follow your Camshaft manufactures advice too a tee.
 
I'm not a fan of std vol pumps, I personally don't like low oil pressure
especially if your making power and revving it to 6000
10 psi per 1000 rpm, 7000 rpm 70 psi
 
brian6pac said:
I'm not a fan of std vol pumps, I personally don't like low oil pressure
especially if your making power and revving it to 6000
10 psi per 1000 rpm, 7000 rpm 70 psi
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Yeah I'm going to pull it and go with a high volume just for good measure. What weight do you run?
 
i am not saying your engine has a problem, BUT there is a plug behind the dist drive that a non mopar builder forgets lots of time,I forgot it one time myself. Low oil pressure is the result of that. Kind of common, and can be installed with the engine in the car, a real pita but can be done. Not saying that is your issue but something to look at.
 
Mopar Tim said:
i am not saying your engine has a problem, BUT there is a plug behind the dist drive that a non mopar builder forgets lots of time,I forgot it one time myself. Low oil pressure is the result of that. Kind of common, and can be installed with the engine in the car, a real pita but can be done. Not saying that is your issue but something to look at.
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I'll look into that hopefully the shop that built it missed it and it's an easy fix
 
I would also pull the dist and check the plug in the left oil galley as mentioned above
 
Ryan ekes said:
Because I'm still learning is the best answer I got and I went from starting it letting it idle for a second to working up to 2000 rpm to see what the oil pressure was . Didn't know I wasn't supposed to do that
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If it's a flat tappet camshaft, idling is the DEAD WORST thing you can do on a fresh build. Once started, you should bring RPM up to at least 2500 and vary it between 2500 and 4000 for the first 15 minutes, otherwise you risk wiping a lobe and destroying the camshaft and lifters.

When I am "new" to something......especially something that can cost thousands of dollars, I READ every bit of information I can.
 
Ryan ekes said:
Yeah I'm going to pull it and go with a high volume just for good measure. What weight do you run?
Click to expand...

Why on earth? It has great oil pressure. It's a stock pump and that is perfectly sufficient. Absolutely zero need for a high volume oil pump.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If it's a flat tappet camshaft, idling is the DEAD WORST thing you can do on a fresh build. Once started, you should bring RPM up to at least 2500 and vary it between 2500 and 4000 for the first 15 minutes, otherwise you risk wiping a lobe and destroying the camshaft and lifters.

When I am "new" to something......especially something that can cost thousands of dollars, I READ every bit of information I can.
Click to expand...
RustyRatRod said:
If it's a flat tappet camshaft, idling is the DEAD WORST thing you can do on a fresh build. Once started, you should bring RPM up to at least 2500 and vary it between 2500 and 4000 for the first 15 minutes, otherwise you risk wiping a lobe and destroying the camshaft and lifters.

When I am "new" to something......especially something that can cost thousands of dollars, I READ every bit of information I can.[/QUOT
I do read all the information I can but it doesn't hurt to learn from other people too. And if you can't help me with that without being a dick then don't bother man. I'm not on here to be berated
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Nobody berated you or was a dick to you brother. I gave you good information. It's not my job to be your mama and tell you bedtime stories. If you do somethin stupid, I'm gonna tell you. We've all done it. That's how I've learned my most valuable lessons.

No one else gave you the break in information that I did. I couldn't care less how you perceive my attitude. That's all in your inference. ....and you inferred incorrectly, btw.

Good luck with your endeavor. My advice was simple. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. ......and yours ain't broke.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Nobody berated you or was a dick to you brother. I gave you good information. It's not my job to be your mama and tell you bedtime stories. If you do somethin stupid, I'm gonna tell you. We've all done it. That's how I've learned my most valuable lessons.

No one else gave you the break in information that I did. I couldn't care less how you perceive my attitude. That's all in your inference. ....and you inferred incorrectly, btw.

Good luck with your endeavor. My advice was simple. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. ......and yours ain't broke.
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Thanks lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
If it's a flat tappet camshaft, idling is the DEAD WORST thing you can do on a fresh build. Once started, you should bring RPM up to at least 2500 and vary it between 2500 and 4000 for the first 15 minutes, otherwise you risk wiping a lobe and destroying the camshaft and lifters.

When I am "new" to something......especially something that can cost thousands of dollars, I READ every bit of information I can.
Click to expand...

RustyRatRod said:
Nobody berated you or was a dick to you brother. I gave you good information. It's not my job to be your mama and tell you bedtime stories. If you do somethin stupid, I'm gonna tell you. We've all done it. That's how I've learned my most valuable lessons.

No one else gave you the break in information that I did. I couldn't care less how you perceive my attitude. That's all in your inference. ....and you inferred incorrectly, btw.

Good luck with your endeavor. My advice was simple. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. ......and yours ain't broke.
Click to expand...

Right, except it’s a roller cam!
So everything you said was completely irrelevant. No cam break in needed for a roller cam.

And yeah, you totally jumped all over the guy. And you’re totally wrong to boot, because you popped off without even asking if it was a flat tappet cam. Open mouth, insert foot.

Ryan ekes said:
Yeah I'm going to pull it and go with a high volume just for good measure. What weight do you run?
Click to expand...

10-30w is pretty light, but it’s a brand new engine. With the plug out I’m not sure you’d even manage the pressures you’ve got, but it’s possible.

Check for the plug. If it’s installed and that wasn’t the problem, you can go 15-40w or 20-50w. Thing is, your oil pressure now is as high as it’s going to be. The tolerances should be as tight as they'll ever be with a brand new engine. So, if the plug wasn’t left out, there’s a chance you have fairly loose tolerances on that brand new engine.

I’d check for the plug, then try a heavier weight oil before I messed with the oil pump. Just see what you get first. Modern machining techniques usually give tighter clearances than what these engines had 50 years ago from the factory, so, it follows that you should see higher pressures than was normal in the 70’s. You may have clearances that are a bit on the loose side. Which isn’t necessarily bad, but it’s worth figuring out now. Talk to your engine builder, better to get it sorted while it’s still under warranty from the shop.
 
72bluNblu said:
Right, except it’s a roller cam!
So everything you said was completely irrelevant. No cam break in needed for a roller cam.

And yeah, you totally jumped all over the guy. And you’re totally wrong to boot, because you popped off without even asking if it was a flat tappet cam. Open mouth, insert foot.



10-30w is pretty light, but it’s a brand new engine. With the plug out I’m not sure you’d even manage the pressures you’ve got, but it’s possible.

Check for the plug. If it’s installed and that wasn’t the problem, you can go 15-40w or 20-50w. Thing is, your oil pressure now is as high as it’s going to be. The tolerances should be as tight as they'll ever be with a brand new engine. So, if the plug wasn’t left out, there’s a chance you have fairly loose tolerances on that brand new engine.

I’d check for the plug, then try a heavier weight oil before I messed with the oil pump. Just see what you get first. Modern machining techniques usually give tighter clearances than what these engines had 50 years ago from the factory, so, it follows that you should see higher pressures than was normal in the 70’s. You may have clearances that are a bit on the loose side. Which isn’t necessarily bad, but it’s worth figuring out now. Talk to your engine builder, better to get it sorted while it’s still under warranty from the shop.
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Yeah I saw it was a roller WELL AFTER the initial post that SHOULD HAVE included that info. I didn't jump all over anybody. Are you head of the snowflake club now?
 
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