Battery relocation

[stormydart]

Should the positive wire going to the front be fused. Also should the one wire alternator wire going back to the battery cut off be fused also. Thanks

 

[AJ/FormS]

I don't know about fusing that bad-boy, on account of the starter can pull a lot of amps thru it.
And I don't know about fusing the alternator output
But if you run that wire to the back, you'll need to run it thru a big HD relay, else the car won't shut off with the key/master switch. Also, if you're planning on a battery cut-off switch, you'll probably want to use a double-pole type to run the alternator output thru one side.... for the same reason; namely so that the engine will shut off when one of the boys slams the handle in.
If you've done a careful job of cable routing, I can't see needing fuses

 

[Fisher]

Well if you are not planning on taking the car to the drag strip, then just extend the existing wires as is. I am not a real fan of battery in the trunk.

 

[72bluNblu]

Well if you are not planning on taking the car to the drag strip, then just extend the existing wires as is. I am not a real fan of battery in the trunk.

Not a good idea. The “existing” wires are typically 4 and 6 gauge wires. To run the battery to the trunk you should be running 0 or 1 gauge.

 

[crackedback]

If you make the runs longer you MUST upsize the wire carrying that energy. Otherwise voltage drop becomes an issue.

There are many ways to do a trunk battery set up. NHRA legal and other methods. Pick one, size wire correctly with protection and go with it.

 

[famous bob]

If you make the runs longer you MUST upsize the wire carrying that energy. Otherwise voltage drop becomes an issue.

There are many ways to do a trunk battery set up. NHRA legal and other methods. Pick one, size wire correctly with protection and go with it.

I ran #2 battery cable from the right rear of the trunk to a mopar relay, (TRIED A FORD, IT GAVE UP EARLY) . The mopar relay is located where the heater motor was, (but that`s a diff. story), 10 gauge wire to the single wire 130 amp alternator under the motor plate where the fuel pump used to be. Original cable going down to the starter from the relay. No fuses, no cut offs, no breakers. Everything is installed to not short out or give any problems. There is more ways to skin a cat ! SIMPLE IS BETTER FOR ME.

 

[stormydart]

I ran #2 battery cable from the right rear of the trunk to a mopar relay, (TRIED A FORD, IT GAVE UP EARLY) . The mopar relay is located where the heater motor was, (but that`s a diff. story), 10 gauge wire to the single wire 130 amp alternator under the motor plate where the fuel pump used to be. Original cable going down to the starter from the relay. No fuses, no cut offs, no breakers. Everything is installed to not short out or give any problems. There is more ways to skin a cat ! SIMPLE IS BETTER FOR ME.

Thanks

 

[mderoy340]

I run a ford starter solenoid in the trunk for the starter. Alt output back to the battery on 60 amp CB. You can use a single pole cutoff switch if you add a bosch relay to the voltage reg ign feed. Use ign switch to control relay and battery feed for relay power.

 

[famous bob]

I run a ford starter solenoid in the trunk for the starter. Alt output back to the battery on 60 amp CB. You can use a single pole cutoff switch if you add a bosch relay to the voltage reg ign feed. Use ign switch to control relay and battery feed for relay power.

oops, SORRY, no voltage reg., or ballast resistor. Total rewire.

 

[67Dart273]

I run a ford starter solenoid in the trunk for the starter. Alt output back to the battery on 60 amp CB. You can use a single pole cutoff switch if you add a bosch relay to the voltage reg ign feed. Use ign switch to control relay and battery feed for relay power.

Just remember this, if you race......When you are upside down trapped in that smoldering mess, and fuel dripping everywhere, that alternator wire IS STILL HOT and is just as dangerous as if it were a no4 or no00 battery cable for producing "ignition"