Bigdummy
Not a Nova
DONT KNOW IF THIS IS A GOOD PRICE OR NOT!
I have a roller
Oils of today are far different then oils used to be. Choose the wrong one and you maybe replacing a camshaft. The worst the Zinc will do in a newer engine is plug up the O2 sensor and that is only after prolonged use.Back in '72, I asked my parent's mechanic to use Penzoil racing oil (20w-40) when he serviced their new '71 Road Runner. It wasn't until many years later I found that racing oils are non-detergent (to prevent foaming), maybe not the best for a daily driver.
It's fair ,Summit is listed as 6.99 @ qt. B.D...DONT KNOW IF THIS IS A GOOD PRICE OR NOT!View attachment 1715159383
No just the 20w50.Great oilDid the have 10/30?
I gotta be diff. , we ran straight 40 or 50 weight , depending on what my "little ' sponsers gave me .------back then !20w50 is the best protection for hydraulic or flat tappet(pre roller) motors. It stick to rotating parts. It was the oil that all motors ran in drag racing until the early 90's. Yes, PS cars run 0w10 but they get torn down often and they need to make every possible HP and have big budgets. It doesn't make much difference until you are under 9.50. Just get the motor warm if you are at the track and your car will be consistent. Don't know about the high end road race cars but the rest run 20w50.
Put 3 passes on my "stock eliminator" car using 10-30. Change the oil and filter, at the track, to straight 30,
That's funny, when warmed up to operating temperature 10-30 and straight 30 should have the same viscosity, that's what the second number "30" means. The "10" would be a thinner viscosity when cold. Therefore, in my opinion, quicker elapsed times with 10-30 versus straight 30 don't jive with the science of oil viscosity at higher temperatures, unless the time trials were done with a cold motor.