proportioning valve (to be or not be)?

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D.Coulter

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I have a 67 A body barracuda. Its a 340 car w/ 8 3/4 rear. currently it has front disc ,I'm putting rear wheel disc on it. I spoke to a Mancini tec. and he informed me that I don't need a proportioning valve that I could just run the master cylinder with a block valve..question is have you ever heard that before....I don't want to hit the brakes and end up in the ditch some where...not cool any advise will be great . btw I have a m/c with the 15/16 bore non power . long live the Mopar
 
I have a 67 A body barracuda. Its a 340 car w/ 8 3/4 rear. currently it has front disc ,I'm putting rear wheel disc on it. I spoke to a Mancini tec. and he informed me that I don't need a proportioning valve that I could just run the master cylinder with a block valve..question is have you ever heard that before....I don't want to hit the brakes and end up in the ditch some where...not cool any advise will be great . btw I have a m/c with the 15/16 bore non power . long live the Mopar

That does sound right since the Prop valve was there to account for the two different types (Drum/Disk)
 
I have also been thinking about this, I've had some people tell me that the proportioning valve actually holds some pressure on the rear circuit for drum brakes. I haven't got that far yet but, if its true then it would be a bad thing for rear disc's. I was also thinking that since you have two lines going to the front brakes and only one to the rear that would mean less volume to the rear, but that might not matter if the rears take less volume to squeeze. So if i amy add to your question do you need a specific PP valve for rear discs?
 
I have also been thinking about this, I've had some people tell me that the proportioning valve actually holds some pressure on the rear circuit for drum brakes. I haven't got that far yet but, if its true then it would be a bad thing for rear disc's. I was also thinking that since you have two lines going to the front brakes and only one to the rear that would mean less volume to the rear, but that might not matter if the rears take less volume to squeeze. So if i amy add to your question do you need a specific PP valve for rear discs?
thats what I was trying to get today but when I hung on the phone I was more confused then when I called them...I believe that there has to be kind of brake distribution involved. Im guessing that I will have the correct answer tonight after I posted it here with the rest of our Mopar family, somebody knows the answer just have to wait for it.
 
the residual pressure valve holds pressure on the drum brakes
truthfully I have never heard of a residual pressure valve but I have heard of the block valve and a proportional valve. I do have a basic understanding of them I was jus t wondering now that I have 4 wheel disc , what type of valve would be appropriate for this brake configuration.
 
I found this on Wilwood's site I think I may go this route

PP valve.PNG
 
But you don't want this with rear disc's correct?
The residual pressure valve should be in every MC that is purchased as a Disk/ Drum. I have heard is removable from the MC rearline port since you do NOT want it on a disk line. I was looking through some old notes to find the reference I had... no luck yet. I will keep looking.
 
I like the idea of the adjustable, if I read correctly it adjust's the flow to your rears only, with different caliper set ups and what-not you could use this to tune your brakes how you want. You could start with the valve all the way open and start trial runs, pinching the valve back until your rears lock up when you want them too.
 
If you read the shop manual........and I've posted this till I'm blue....

Go to MyMopar they have them free.......they show you in there HOW TO REMOVE the residual valves out of a drum master. This is to overhaul the master

On my 67, which has 73/ 74 A body disc up front, and Lincoln Versailles in the rear, NO prop valve was needed, and furthermore, in my case, the STOCK 67 MASTER worked fine, gave me good pedal (manual master)
 
If you read the shop manual........and I've posted this till I'm blue....

Go to MyMopar they have them free.......they show you in there HOW TO REMOVE the residual valves out of a drum master. This is to overhaul the master

On my 67, which has 73/ 74 A body disc up front, and Lincoln Versailles in the rear, NO prop valve was needed, and furthermore, in my case, the STOCK 67 MASTER worked fine, gave me good pedal (manual master)
ok ill check that out ...thanks for the in put
 
I have a 67 A body barracuda. Its a 340 car w/ 8 3/4 rear. currently it has front disc ,I'm putting rear wheel disc on it. I spoke to a Mancini tec. and he informed me that I don't need a proportioning valve that I could just run the master cylinder with a block valve..question is have you ever heard that before....I don't want to hit the brakes and end up in the ditch some where...not cool any advise will be great . btw I have a m/c with the 15/16 bore non power . long live the Mopar
He`s right, I used the stock one on mine when I switched 4 wheel discs .
 
4 wheel disc on my '69 Dart. No prop valve, and no residual valve. Works fine. If you go to an aftermarket master cylinder like I did (like Wilwood or Baer) they do not have a residual valve in the master cylinder.
 
Hang on I didn't see anybody post their tire sizes.

The P valve is in there to prevent pre-mature rear wheel lock up..... period.
The factory put four same size skinny tires on these cars, and if the rear tires were to lock up, the rear of the car usually steps out to the side, and if you are asleep, then a spin is eminent ! You kindof want to prevent that.
Most of us hotrodders run big and little tire combos; with 225 to 245s up front and 275s to 295s out back. So for us the P valve is unnecessary, we can easily achieve correct proportioning with wheel cylinder size.
However rear discs may have more power to stop than drums. And then around she might go.
So
If you have staggered tire sizes as above, then you PROBABLY don't need any proportioning. And you for sure don't want any residual valves on your car AT ALL.

If you already have a P valve installed, just leave it on there it can't do any harm. But you may, MAY, not have optimum rear braking with it in the circuit. In any case it is easy to disable it at a later date.
Or you could install an adjustable valve, and defeat the oem one.

In every case, you will have to do some testing after everything is installed, to make sure the car stops straight. Chose your test location with care.

And a final FYI, on the street, rear discs are a luxury; the drums are perfectly adequate, even for staggered-size tires.
The only advantage rear discs offer is freedom or near freedom, from fade, and quick pad changes. But as a streeter,when and where, are you gonna need to take advantage of these features.
 
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