INST Fuse blowing

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67Dart273 said:
If it helps to "un-discourage" you some, a circuit with multiple loads, and an intermittent are a couple of the hardest types of problems. Stay with it, the fact that you are willing to get your hands dirty is most the battle LOL
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Got back on it today for a while. Traced the orange wire to the radio light, heater switch light, gear selector light, and ash tray light. Wire to the ashtray tray light worn slap through grounded to the frame right behind the bulb socket. Score!
Now for the orange wire that goes to the dash lights. Still reads short to ground. What do you think? All the cluster lights worked during bench testing. Where's the most likely place for that wire to be grounded?
 
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2 orange wires come out of the one fuse one goes to a split off ,the other one goes to the Gear select...forementioned split-off goes to a white wire that goes to your bulkhead it looks like it ties/piggy backs to a black wire that goes off to ...either the parking brake , printed circuit board connector ...or the turn signal cam/switch..

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MOPAROFFICIAL said:
2 orange wires come out of the one fuse one goes to a split off ,the other one goes to the Gear select...forementioned split-off goes to a white wire that goes to your bulkhead it looks like it ties/piggy backs to a black wire that goes off to ...either the parking brake , printed circuit board connector ...or the turn signal cam/switch..

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This is incorrect and I already addressed this earlier. What you are seeing is the radio power connector. The white and red are connected, not the orange. Orange is unique in Mopars it is "only" connected to orange

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^^This what you are looking at?^^
 
67Dart273 said:
Is this with the cluster unconnected? If not just about has to be "right in" the cluster
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No it is still connected. I think you are correct sir. I'll pull the cluster back out and see what's going on. Thanks a lot for your help, it ain't long now!
 
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67Dart273 said:
This is incorrect and I already addressed this earlier. What you are seeing is the radio power connector. The white and red are connected, not the orange. Orange is unique in Mopars it is "only" connected to orange

View attachment 1715187349

^^This what you are looking at?^^
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Thank you. That's the same thing I was thinking. I really appreciate you pointing out the differences in the mymopar color coded diagram and the FSM. I would have been chasing my tail.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
2 orange wires come out of the one fuse one goes to a split off ,the other one goes to the Gear select...forementioned split-off goes to a white wire that goes to your bulkhead it looks like it ties/piggy backs to a black wire that goes off to ...either the parking brake , printed circuit board connector ...or the turn signal cam/switch..

View attachment 1715187336

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Unfortunately I think you got caught in the same trap I did. Evidently there are some inconsistencies in that wiring diagram. The service manual is really the thing to use when troubleshooting the wiring. Thanks for trying to help though. It is really appreciated.
 
67Dart273 said:
This is incorrect and I already addressed this earlier. What you are seeing is the radio power connector. The white and red are connected, not the orange. Orange is unique in Mopars it is "only" connected to orange

View attachment 1715187349

^^This what you are looking at?^^
Click to expand...

Yeah, i sourced that from the same site apparently. There used to be a site i used, bookmarked it, would print diagrams... That were accurate... haha... it's gone now and all I have left of prints are 1971 dart, I could have referenced it but it wouldn't be 100%correct.
 
moparmandan said:
Unfortunately I think you got caught in the same trap I did. Evidently there are some inconsistencies in that wiring diagram. The service manual is really the thing to use when troubleshooting the wiring. Thanks for trying to help though. It is really appreciated.
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Right on, yeah when i see threads go on a bit without resolve I feel obliged to try offer any help i can.
 
It's easy to do there are "unclarities" in the factory prints and also some mistakes over the years.

One mistake for several years involved the horn and start wires going through the bulkhead connector. They magically were connected on either side of the connector LOL

And "Ma" never made any real effort to describe some of the odd stuff, and the seat belt interlock is a great example.
 
67Dart273 said:
Is this with the cluster unconnected? If not just about has to be "right in" the cluster
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What's your best guess on "right in" the cluster? Sitting here brainstorming at work on break..............
All sockets and bulbs new.
Amp meter bypassed.
5v factory voltage reg replaced with a 7805.
Fuel level and temp gauge seem to work.

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View attachment 1715187440
 
Can't see what you are trying to post. I would just take it apart and inspect it. Might be something like, part of the connector pins "pushed through" and touching the cluster frame underneath, "I guess" it could theoretically be a shorted bulb, though I've never seen one.
 
Thanks. Will do. Looks like we lost power to the tan wire also. Probably took out the headlight switch because we don't have running or tail lights now either. But we have power on both sides of fuse number 5 , the tail light fuse. No biggie already picked up a new headlight switch.
 
Corrosion in the tail light fuse slot. All dash light working.
Now just fun stuff. My son said the key in ignition buzzer is the most annoying thing he's ever heard. LOL
Ashtray light working. Wipers work great, park great. On to the glove box and dome light!
Oh yeah, one question. Where the hell does the heater control light plug in? Forgot to do that while everything was apart. Oops. Am I going to be able to get my hand up in there?
 
67Dart273 said:
If you can't run this down, and confirm it is on the orange wiring side of the fuse, I would just cut one at a time until the short goes away, hook them up except of that and then figure out what is not working.
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just start with the diagram, see which devices(loads) are on that wire. disconnect all the loads. put each load back on the circuit until your fuse blows. then you can pinpoint which part of the circuit is the culprit. just repaired an alfa for a friend. isolated everything at the fuse block.pulled all the wires and put back on one at a time. alfas known for eletrical problems, quite fun actually!
 
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