Buyer Beware - Rick Ehrenberg

-

rt-man

Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2017
Messages
15
Reaction score
4
Location
Massachusetts
Yes, that Rick Ehrenberg, long time tech editor for your favorite Mopar magazine.

I bought a rebuilt 340 (oil pan to intake, less exhaust manifolds) from Rick in the summer of 2017. While he didn’t build it, he said he knew the engine builder who did and he’d stand behind the engine. The rebuilt motor had been sitting for a while in someone’s garage and Rick had obtained the motor. I picked it up, looked in two cylinders with a crappy borescope Rick provided (they looked okay), and took it back home for installation.

Painted, put it in over the Winter. Ran crappy when fired up. My mechanic tried several things, but engine had no power whatsoever. Eventually determined that the rings didn’t seat. Lots of blow by. Rick believes it was because we used synthetic break-in oil. Nevertheless, we had to tear down the motor to put in new rings. Upon teardown, the mechanic did a ball hone on the cylinders and saw porous rust on the bottom of some of the bores. Rather than sleeve the cylinders or bore out the rusted cylinders, my mechanic and I decided to use a 360 he had lying around (block and crank) and reuse what we could from the 340.

I sent Rick the pics of the rust. I asked Rick to reimburse me a little less than a third of what I paid for the motor to cover buying new pistons, rings and what would have been the cost to bore out the cylinders and the labor to teardown the 340. Furthermore, I told Rick I’d give him back the 340 crank, pistons, and whatever else we weren’t using from the 340. He basically told me he was too busy, kept returning to the synthetic oil break-in issue (which doesn’t create rust in the bores), and never accepted responsibility for a motor he said he’d stand behind.

I don’t expect he’ll ever do the right thing here. I bought it from him because he’s known in the Mopar community. After this, I guess being known and being a stand-up individual are two different things. Expensive lesson for me. He’s the one with the long-time reputation; I’m just some schmuck who believed what he said.

Rick Ehrenberg – buyer beware.

IMG_0380.JPEG


IMG_0381.JPEG
 
Wow. Those cylinders are certainly not run worthy. The builder obviously didn't use a very good assembly lube. A good assembly lube will hang out for years before being started. That sucks man. Sounds to me like you were more than reasonable.
 
E-booger slimed you. You know dino oil is break in oil now....If he told you he would stand behind the builder pretaining to the build, he may. I seen built motors based on a crappy block, as the builder wasn't the machinist running the hone, or inspecting it months later. What does a rebuilder do to a cylinder before inserting the piston? He cleans is with whatever he has to remove any hone or glaze breaking particles or whatever suspended in the oil to a clean paper towel result, usually 2-3 times. That leaves the cylinder void of any oil. If he installed the pistons dry and never did anything else, whats to stop rust? How long would you estimate the rust took to damage your bores? Just playing the defense card here to see what the plantiff has to offer in this make shift court of screwing.
 
Last edited:
he is known in the mopar community alright. known as a douchebag to many.. :)

The problem solver, selling grade 8 bolts for 3 times the price. Taking advantage of people that don't know better. I never had a problem with any thing that he said was a problem. Douchebag like you said.
 
What is the bore on that block ? Is it saveable.
 
sat for a few years in a garage on the humid East Coast. and it rusted.. Parts rust in a matter of minutes on the humid East Coast.
 
Last edited:
You know dino oil is break in oil now....

Says who? What oil do the new Corvettes come with? The Hellcats? I can keep going. They were NOT broken in on carbon based oil. That's a big myth. Engines will break in just fine on synthetic and if Rick refuses some warranty because of that then he's wrong. He'll be wrong for any reason.
 
Says who? What oil do the new Corvettes come with? The Hellcats? I can keep going. They were NOT broken in on carbon based oil. That's a big myth. Engines will break in just fine on synthetic and if Rick refuses some warranty because of that then he's wrong. He'll be wrong for any reason.


What is the honed cylinder RA on these new cars? Not what it used to be in '69 or what a hot rods machine shops Sunnen stones can hone today. New blocks are honed to a much higher RA, so much in fact that moly rings seat within minutes on synthetic oil, not the hundreds of miles the cast or chrome rings needed back then. So these new low RA motors don't need the dirty carbon emission dino oil of old, but were not talking a new block here are we....

"...All of this has contributed to new power generated by the engine block, but to take advantage of it, new honing procedures have to be adopted. The techniques employed for the past twenty years are rapidly becoming unsustainable.
...Compare the production finish and standards of the engine cylinders of modern mass-produced automobiles. Yesteryear’s GM, Ford and Chrysler were typically rated at 18 to 22Ra. Today’s GM LS, Ford Modular and Chrysler Hemi engines measure 8 to12Ra. But that’s not all; the car factories anticipate further reductions to 6Ra in the near future...."
that was back in 2014.

Engine blocks have changed, so have cylinder honing practices: Here’s how to apply new procedures and gain power. – Moore Good Ink
 
I don't think that matters anymore. These newer oils adapt themselves well to pretty much everything. You'd just about have to use crappy, hacked up used rings to make them not seat.
 
I don't think that matters anymore. These newer oils adapt themselves well to pretty much everything. You'd just about have to use crappy, hacked up used rings to make them not seat.
That's probably what Boogers engine builder used! :lol:
 
That's probably what Boogers engine builder used! :lol:

No kiddin. I could be completely off base with that last statement, but I don't think so. We'd be seeing a LOT of cases where rings weren't seating and we don't. I know plenty of people who use nothing but synthetic from break in and after. We just don't see the problem.
 
Posting this on every Mopar board does not make the OP right.
FACT: You bought an engine that had been built long ago by someone else.
FACT: You obviously do not have the tools or skill to build an engine yourself so you had to rely on someone else to assess the quality of the build.
FACT: Rick admitted that he did not build the engine.
FACT: You did a poor job of inspecting a used engine.
FACT: The engine sat for years but you decided to paint it and run it anyway.
FACT: New engines get by with synthetic oil because they run tighter clearances for the piston, have thinner rings and have tighter ring gaps. Older style engines and synthetic oil is a crapshoot as to how well the rings will seat.
FACT: People that do not understand something often feel that they were "cheated" when something goes wrong.
FACT: Unless you saw the engine run, you do not know exactly how well it will run, no matter WHO built it.
This is a sad attempt on your part to cover your own mistake. YOU should have done a better job inspecting the engine.
 
No kiddin. I could be completely off base with that last statement, but I don't think so. We'd be seeing a LOT of cases where rings weren't seating and we don't. I know plenty of people who use nothing but synthetic from break in and after. We just don't see the problem.

I worked for Cadillac for 10 years and in 2003 we had a piston recall on the northstar and GM said do not hone the cyls, new pistons, rings, rod bearings & gaskets test drive it and it is done, not 1 was a oil burner all the cyls had all the crosshatch even at 100,000 miles and they used mobil 5000 oil only the Cadillac XLR got synthetic because it had adjustable cam timing.
 
Posting this on every Mopar board does not make the OP right.
FACT: You bought an engine that had been built long ago by someone else.
FACT: You obviously do not have the tools or skill to build an engine yourself so you had to rely on someone else to assess the quality of the build.
FACT: Rick admitted that he did not build the engine.
FACT: You did a poor job of inspecting a used engine.
FACT: The engine sat for years but you decided to paint it and run it anyway.
FACT: New engines get by with synthetic oil because they run tighter clearances for the piston, have thinner rings and have tighter ring gaps. Older style engines and synthetic oil is a crapshoot as to how well the rings will seat.
FACT: People that do not understand something often feel that they were "cheated" when something goes wrong.
FACT: Unless you saw the engine run, you do not know exactly how well it will run, no matter WHO built it.
This is a sad attempt on your part to cover your own mistake. YOU should have done a better job inspecting the engine.

Yes you are right to a point, but if Rick said it's good and he guarantees it, than that is it, there is no argument. Rick should back up his word.
 
Did you tell Rick you would post his refusal to back up his promise on this forum?
 
We don't know what Rick said, we only know what the OP claims that he said. To just instantly accept the word of a guy that airs his problems all over every Mopar board without hearing the other side is neither fair nor sensible.
 
Says who? What oil do the new Corvettes come with? The Hellcats? I can keep going. They were NOT broken in on carbon based oil. That's a big myth. Engines will break in just fine on synthetic and if Rick refuses some warranty because of that then he's wrong. He'll be wrong for any reason.

We didn't use any special oil on the engine line that I worked on... We used regular engine oil that was OEM recommended for the engine for all assembly from crank and main bearings, rod bearings, and cylinders before shooting the pistons...

We also ran the engines dry on a "cold test" dyno which filled the oil checked the oil signature pattern, and could catch a non-drilled oil squirt hole and tell you exactly what cylinder it was on... Cold test also gave valve timing events for valves opening and closing... This info was saved and archived using the bar code from the valve cover label...

So there was no special oil used for break in, and every engine had the oil system primed before shipping to the assembly plant...
 
Posting this on every Mopar board does not make the OP right.
FACT: You bought an engine that had been built long ago by someone else.
FACT: You obviously do not have the tools or skill to build an engine yourself so you had to rely on someone else to assess the quality of the build.
FACT: Rick admitted that he did not build the engine.
FACT: You did a poor job of inspecting a used engine.
FACT: The engine sat for years but you decided to paint it and run it anyway.
FACT: New engines get by with synthetic oil because they run tighter clearances for the piston, have thinner rings and have tighter ring gaps. Older style engines and synthetic oil is a crapshoot as to how well the rings will seat.
FACT: People that do not understand something often feel that they were "cheated" when something goes wrong.
FACT: Unless you saw the engine run, you do not know exactly how well it will run, no matter WHO built it.
This is a sad attempt on your part to cover your own mistake. YOU should have done a better job inspecting the engine.

You're presuming an awful lot here about a situation you really don't know anything about........perhaps we all are. Maybe Rick will come over and chime in. I would "like" to think he's a stand up guy.
 
People will tell you ANYTHING to make a sale. At least the ones with out credibility. I've said it here many times, buy whatever you can verify with your own two eyes and pay accordingly.
 
-
Back
Top