Can I just cut the rubber piece off and splice them all three together or does the rubber piece have to be where they come together?You probably won't find one just like it. You'll have to make your own splice.
Can I just cut the rubber piece off and splice them all three together or does the rubber piece have to be where they come together?
Both fusible link wires are 18 on one side and 14 on the other. Do I have to get the same gauge for the replacement?You can pitch the rubber piece in the trash, but you probably should replace the fusible link wire.
Would it be okay to splice that in, even though the wires will be different gauges on each side?splice in this blade fuse holder.....
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Both fusible link wires are 18 on one side and 14 on the other. Do I have to get the same gauge for the replacement?
Would it be okay to splice that in, even though the wires will be different gauges on each side?
Assuming the fusible wire is in good shape you should be able to cut the rubber off and splice the wires together. I would be sure to use a high amp splice preferable same type as OE. If when you remove the black rubber all the strands of wire are still attached to each other as the OE made it you could create a mold and over mold the OE splice area with appropriate black material. I think Eastwood sells such.Can I just cut the rubber piece off and splice them all three together or does the rubber piece have to be where they come together?
I'm not sure where to find a fusible link wire that is both 18 and 14 gauge though. The ones I see online are all the same gauge on each side.Not in my opinion, no. @67Dart273 That's Del. Hes an electronics legend genius. Maybe he will chime in. He probably knows something I don't for sho and for certain. lol
The single wire is connected to two wires that have a fusible link and each of them have two different gauge wires on each side of the fusible link. Sorry if I made that confusing earlier.I don't believe the large single wire is a fusible link. I could be wrong but I don't think it is. So, All you would need to do would be to splice the two smaller wires to the large wire. I believe that is acceptable since you are going from one large lead to two smaller ones.
The single wire is connected to two wires that have a fusible link and each of them have two different gauge wires on each side of the fusible link. Sorry if I made that confusing earlier.
I agree with this method. In my 85 ram I had a fuseable link blow and I spliced in one of those blade fuses and never had no more trouble with it.splice in this blade fuse holder.....
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Doing that would be the easiest thing to do, I’ll try it if no one else objects to it.I agree with this method. In my 85 ram I had a fuseable link blow and I spliced in one of those blade fuses and never had no more trouble with it.
There’s only two fusible link wires under the hood, so this would probably be too bulky. It’s interesting though.I just did this with my GLH-Turbo. Replaces all the fusible links with a fuse panel. Should make life easier in the future.
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Generally not a good idea to use a fuse where a fusible link was located. That would make sense only if completely rewiring with a fusebox on the engine bay side. Even then, a fusible link on the alternator supply is still generally better. That way the alternator can supply full current for short peripods of time while still being protect from short.Would it be okay to splice that in, even though the wires will be different gauges on each side?
The single wire is connected to two wires that have a fusible link and each of them have two different gauge wires on each side of the fusible link. Sorry if I made that confusing earlier.
Actually, based on the photo in your earlier thread and the FSM diagram, there should be 3 fusible links there and as well as a fourth on feed going direct from the battery to the bulkhead connector. First thing is to ID the one that failed and find out why it failed.There’s only two fusible link wires under the hood, so this would probably be too bulky. It’s interesting though.