A question about intakes

[Mineallmine]

I just made arrangements to pick up a 273 V8 engine on the weekend to build for an eventual swap in my 63 dart. Got what I think is a good deal so I couldn't really pass it up.

It was supposedly rebuilt completely 10 years ago with new rings, new bearings, rebuilt heads, ect but never fired. The motor was placed in car but never fully connected and was never started. From sitting it is now stuck. Haven't torn into it yet to see if it's just slightly weather stuck or if water got into it at some point. All the ports on intake and plug holes were plugged so hoping just from sitting.

Any way, on to my question. It has an edelbrock D4B intake with the CHRY2836139 number printed on it. Only info I can find is that this number was on the LD4B which is the later manifold. Did the earlier manifolds ever come with the Chrysler stamped number as well? I would have thought it would have been a different number as it is a different manifold (I know same manifold overall just different mounting hole angles for later years).

The motor is in a 66 Canadian Valiant Convertible that the current owner was restoring until it was decided to be too far gone chassis wise to be worth the effort to save. I am pretty sure the motor wasn't original to the car as the intake indicates it should be a 64-65 engine. I have yet to pull the heads to see the pistons to see if in fact this was a commando engine originally. Valve covers are stock so possibly not, but as it isn't original maybe I'll get lucky and they were swapped at some point.

Any way, as I have researched I know this to be a good manifold but just want to see if this manifold also carried the same number. I did read that one person had an LD4B manifold with this number that you could barely see the L as it was slightly miscast...is it possible this is the case and I have a 66 motor? Just looking for opinions. The D4B looks pretty clear.

 

[j par]

Does it have the adjustable rockers?

 

[Slantsix64]

Hey buddy, try pulling the plugs out and spraying some PB BLaster, or any kind of penetrating oil let it sit over night, and with a breaker bar and drink a lot of milk try to break her loose. You can buy a small inspection camera and stick it into the plug holes and see the top of the pistons as well through your smart phone.

 

[Plymouth 65]

I have rarely had luck with stuck motors coming back to life. My advice would be to carefully disassemble the engine and rebuild it properly. I m sure others may disagree, but that's just been my experience. 65'

 

[Mineallmine]

As to rockers, I believe they are.. will double check when I pick it up Sunday. Just looked at some pictures on line as to what non adjustable would look like and am now almost positive that they are adjustable

Slantsix64 I iplan to pour marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and let it sit then try to break it loose. I have had good luck with that. I had a Pontiac Engine I freed up that way and used PB blaster another time on a SB Chevy that was bad (cylinder full of water that stuck). I already have an inspection camera so I do plan to check to see extent of the issue before adding oil.

Plymouth 65 I have actually had good luck with this so far. Normally I would immediately tear into it but as it was completely rebuilt it may barely be stuck and a little lube might just clear it up. The Pontiac I freed up still showed great compression after I freed it up and I had to work it back and forth until I made a full revolution, then it was good. If it doesn't come free, I'm not concerned as I will just take it apart and see if the block can be saved or just keep the parts for another build or spares. I did good enough on the engine that the price I paid was close to just the value of the intake alone. Anything else I get is a Bonus

 

[Plymouth 65]

It's all good, for that price it's all upside! 65'

 

[krazykuda]

I just made arrangements to pick up a 273 V8 engine on the weekend to build for an eventual swap in my 63 dart. Got what I think is a good deal so I couldn't really pass it up.

It was supposedly rebuilt completely 10 years ago with new rings, new bearings, rebuilt heads, ect but never fired. The motor was placed in car but never fully connected and was never started. From sitting it is now stuck. Haven't torn into it yet to see if it's just slightly weather stuck or if water got into it at some point. All the ports on intake and plug holes were plugged so hoping just from sitting.

Any way, on to my question. It has an edelbrock D4B intake with the CHRY2836139 number printed on it. Only info I can find is that this number was on the LD4B which is the later manifold. Did the earlier manifolds ever come with the Chrysler stamped number as well? I would have thought it would have been a different number as it is a different manifold (I know same manifold overall just different mounting hole angles for later years).

The motor is in a 66 Canadian Valiant Convertible that the current owner was restoring until it was decided to be too far gone chassis wise to be worth the effort to save. I am pretty sure the motor wasn't original to the car as the intake indicates it should be a 64-65 engine. I have yet to pull the heads to see the pistons to see if in fact this was a commando engine originally. Valve covers are stock so possibly not, but as it isn't original maybe I'll get lucky and they were swapped at some point.

Any way, as I have researched I know this to be a good manifold but just want to see if this manifold also carried the same number. I did read that one person had an LD4B manifold with this number that you could barely see the L as it was slightly miscast...is it possible this is the case and I have a 66 motor? Just looking for opinions. The D4B looks pretty clear.

I bought an LD4B that on one side had LD4b and the other side had D4B.... You would need to look at the mounting holes to verify what you have...

If you can fit a drill bit larger than 3/8" Through the mounting holes, it's most likely a LD4B... Unless someone drilled the holes on a D4B oversize....

 

[4spdragtop]

Took a while thru Google, but found an LD4B with that number. They arent that common with that number stamped on them.

 

[Slantsix64]

As to rockers, I believe they are.. will double check when I pick it up Sunday. Just looked at some pictures on line as to what non adjustable would look like and am now almost positive that they are adjustable

Slantsix64 I iplan to pour marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and let it sit then try to break it loose. I have had good luck with that. I had a Pontiac Engine I freed up that way and used PB blaster another time on a SB Chevy that was bad (cylinder full of water that stuck). I already have an inspection camera so I do plan to check to see extent of the issue before adding oil.

Plymouth 65 I have actually had good luck with this so far. Normally I would immediately tear into it but as it was completely rebuilt it may barely be stuck and a little lube might just clear it up. The Pontiac I freed up still showed great compression after I freed it up and I had to work it back and forth until I made a full revolution, then it was good. If it doesn't come free, I'm not concerned as I will just take it apart and see if the block can be saved or just keep the parts for another build or spares. I did good enough on the engine that the price I paid was close to just the value of the intake alone. Anything else I get is a Bonus

Cool, positive thinking is always a plus!

 

[Mineallmine]

Took a while thru Google, but found an LD4B with that number. They arent that common with that number stamped on them.

View attachment 1715403503

That's what I found as well. I couldn't find any with the Chrysler number and the D4B. If it is in fact a 64-65 motor with the D4B manifold, I can only assume it might be even less common than the Ld4B with the Chrysler number as there seems to more of the Ld4B manifolds around

 

[krazykuda]

I just made arrangements to pick up a 273 V8 engine on the weekend to build for an eventual swap in my 63 dart. Got what I think is a good deal so I couldn't really pass it up.

It was supposedly rebuilt completely 10 years ago with new rings, new bearings, rebuilt heads, ect but never fired. The motor was placed in car but never fully connected and was never started. From sitting it is now stuck. Haven't torn into it yet to see if it's just slightly weather stuck or if water got into it at some point. All the ports on intake and plug holes were plugged so hoping just from sitting.

Any way, on to my question. It has an edelbrock D4B intake with the CHRY2836139 number printed on it. Only info I can find is that this number was on the LD4B which is the later manifold. Did the earlier manifolds ever come with the Chrysler stamped number as well? I would have thought it would have been a different number as it is a different manifold (I know same manifold overall just different mounting hole angles for later years).

The motor is in a 66 Canadian Valiant Convertible that the current owner was restoring until it was decided to be too far gone chassis wise to be worth the effort to save. I am pretty sure the motor wasn't original to the car as the intake indicates it should be a 64-65 engine. I have yet to pull the heads to see the pistons to see if in fact this was a commando engine originally. Valve covers are stock so possibly not, but as it isn't original maybe I'll get lucky and they were swapped at some point.

Any way, as I have researched I know this to be a good manifold but just want to see if this manifold also carried the same number. I did read that one person had an LD4B manifold with this number that you could barely see the L as it was slightly miscast...is it possible this is the case and I have a 66 motor? Just looking for opinions. The D4B looks pretty clear.

The LD4B has 29/64" holes for the intake, where the D4B has 27/64" holes...

I have a LD4B that has the part number and says D4B on that side.... check the holes for what size they are to see what it is exactly...

LD4B:

D4B:

LD4B

D4B:

 

[Donnie514]

How's come nobody thinks about the crankshaft. I would figure this has not been rotated or had the oil pump priming the motor since it was set in. Gravity will pull the complete rotating assembly down on the main bearings and mess up the crank.
I would do the marvel mystery oil, wait a while and tare it down.

 

[Mineallmine]

So update. Just picked up the engine. Intake does not have ld4b on either end, just d4b and the Chrysler number. Took one bolt out but haven't checked size yet, but holes have not been modified at all. Intake is in nice shape, just have to drill out one broken stud and Chase the threads on the others to clean them up but overall good. Motor is stuck but I have put PB blaster in to let it soak for a few days.

Where are the engine numbers located so I can determine year? The head numbers are 2658920-2 which according to my research is 66-67 273 so now I'm really confused. The bolt holes on the intake don't look drilled out and the bolts sit flush but the numbers on the intake say it should be for earlier heads.

Heads look like a good set by the numbers, shows from a 4bbl, so I'm hoping for high rise Pistons too which will make a good engine to build.

 

[toolmanmike]

The LD4B has 29/64" holes for the intake, where the D4B has 27/64" holes...

I have a LD4B that has the part number and says D4B on that side.... check the holes for what size they are to see what it is exactly...

View attachment 1715403610


View attachment 1715403617


LD4B:

View attachment 1715403612


D4B:

View attachment 1715403613


LD4B

View attachment 1715403615


D4B:

View attachment 1715403616

I don't believe I have ever seen a D4B with a part number. I don't think the part numbered LD4B's came out until later. (not immediately in 1966)

 

[toolmanmike]

The 65 heads (and the D4B) should have 5/16" intake bolts. The steel covers tells me it's a 2 barrel engine but they could have ben changed. Dual point distributor? Doesn't look like it from here.

 

[toolmanmike]

I don't believe I have ever seen a D4B with a part number. I don't think the part numbered LD4B's came out until later. (not immediately in 1966)

And I can't imagine the part numbers were the same. I have seen a lot of LD4B's (just because I have owned a half dozen) with missing numbers and letters. These were sand cast and not the highest quality casting wise.

 

[Mineallmine]

And I can't imagine the part numbers were the same. I have seen a lot of LD4B's (just because I have owned a half dozen) with missing numbers and letters. These were sand cast and not the highest quality casting wise.

So I just went out to look again. Casting number on block is poor but best I can tell it's a 1966 block with 2 barrel Pistons ( used my scope on one cylinder and looks like flat top Pistons with reliefs for valves. On the plus side it looks like I can see hone marks on the cylinder walls which would indicate the engine was actually rebuilt with no use. Some moisture got into valley as some lifters are a little crusty but not bad, while others look new. I think plan now is to pull intake and heads, clean everything up, see what's still good and reassemble. Single point dizzy. Good news is the one cylinder I looked at didn't look Rusty. Hope the rest look good. May soak cylinders in evaporust once I get it opened up (and in valley) to clean it all out. Either way I definitely got my money's worth just in parts on the engine. Good intake, heads and all the right brackets, mounts and exhaust manifolds to do a V8 seat in my car eventually. Also came with 2 alternators, 2 starters, a new fuel pump, and spare dizzy. All this for $275 cdn, so just over $206 USD.

 

[toolmanmike]

So I just went out to look again. Casting number on block is poor but best I can tell it's a 1966 block with 2 barrel Pistons ( used my scope on one cylinder and looks like flat top Pistons with reliefs for valves. On the plus side it looks like I can see hone marks on the cylinder walls which would indicate the engine was actually rebuilt with no use. Some moisture got into valley as some lifters are a little crusty but not bad, while others look new. I think plan now is to pull intake and heads, clean everything up, see what's still good and reassemble. Single point dizzy. Good news is the one cylinder I looked at didn't look Rusty. Hope the rest look good. May soak cylinders in evaporust once I get it opened up (and in valley) to clean it all out. Either way I definitely got my money's worth just in parts on the engine. Good intake, heads and all the right brackets, mounts and exhaust manifolds to do a V8 seat in my car eventually. Also came with 2 alternators, 2 starters, a new fuel pump, and spare dizzy. All this for $275 cdn, so just over $206 USD.

Score!!!

 

[pishta]

I'd lube the solid lifters, breaker bar it a few times till it turned over and start it up. Let it clear its lungs. Can't count how many frozen motors I got turning and finally got started that ran fine afterwords. If it were rusted hydros, I would just get new lifters but not solids. Check oil before anything.

 

[Kendog 170]

My Uncle swears that caster oil is the best thing ever for freeing up motors. Squirt some in the cylinders and wait couple of days. This guy owned a consultant business and would either diagnosis and tell them the problem or go fix the cars himself.

 

[66fs]

64-65 273 heads had 5/16 bolts and 1/2 inch heads on the bolts. 66 up had 3/8 bolt heads. Nice find. 4 valve notches are 2 barrel pistons, but should be about 9:1 and .020 from the deck. Good for todays gas.

 

[Mineallmine]

So after looking things over a bit more it seems that this is in fact a 66 or 67 motor. I am guessing 66 as that is what it came out of. The intake must be an LD4B intake, just missing the casting on the "L" as Toolmanmike pointed out to be a possibility. It's odd that the L is missing from both sides however but I guess it's possible. As it has the Chrysler part number and the only info I can find of these intakes with the part number is the LD4B it adds to the idea if the miscast of the letters. The bolts sit flush and don't appear to have been drilled out. Either way, I am pleased with my purchase.

I have decided to pull the engine apart however. It is still stuck (I haven't really cranked on it yet as it is still in the wagon I used to transport it, haven't had a chance to put together my engine cart. Don't want to put it on my engine stand as I plan to pull the slanty to clean and paint it as well as replace the seals and gaskets on it as I will be running it for a while before doing the V8 swap.)The reason I decided to pull it apart is so I can properly clean the components and inspect everything. It was built supposedly 10 years ago and never fired but I don't know how it was stored so condensation makes a mess of things and the seals might be leaking too, so $80 on a gasket and seal set is cheap insurance. It also allows me to see exactly what was and wasn't done internally. I don't plan to pull the pistons or crank unless I find something down there that really concerns me. So far what I'm seeing does indicate a rebuild. Either way, I think I did well on this purchase (already drilled out and tapped the broken bolt in the intake) and spending a couple more bucks still puts me having a cheap engine with no leaks if nothing else when I'm done. Would hate to do a bunch of work getting it running and then have to pull it again because it was leaking all over the place.

I will keep everyone posted on what I find. I plan to take lots of pictures as it's always better with pictures

 

[Kendog 170]

Squirts some oil in the cylinders while your waiting. Also pick up some cam lube with that gasket set.

 

[Mineallmine]

Squirts some oil in the cylinders while your waiting. Also pick up some cam lube with that gasket set.

Already done. Have a tube of assembly lube in my parts cabinet I plan to coat everthing with as I reassemble after inspection.

 

[Mineallmine]

So I tore into the engine yesterday and have discovered a few things. First this is a 66 block. The intake has not been modified so it must be the Ld4b intake. The engine has definitely been rebuilt. You can still clearly see the hone marks on the cylinders. The heads look to have been done and it has a brand new cam in it. It appears the lifters are toast from condensation as they were stuck and some are collapsed. I got them free and will be replacing them. The cylinders are not rusted like I thought they might be but currently it's still stuck. Haven't attached a bar to the crank yet to really force it. Going to drain the oil shortly and pull the timing cover and pan to inspect there as well. Definitely got my money's worth though. Hopefully a new set of lifters and a set of Haley's and seals once I free it up and we'll be good to go.

Have to flush the block of course. The only thing I noticed is that they never cut the ridge of the cylinders but that shouldn't be an issue as it's less than it looks.