Mopah340
Member
10w30, 10w40 or 20w50 oil
Massachusetts, summer only.Diesel, gas or jet engine?
Race engine? Northern or southern climate?
Info will help.
I know. Another huge can of worms.Oh no.
That didn't tell us much.Massachusetts, summer only.
Sorry guys I’m having technical difficulties here. Purchased matching #s Dart Swinger 340 4 years ago. Lots of documentation with car. Except for engine. Hand writ note saying “bored 30 over, hydraulic H cam. Purple bigger, compression ratio 10.5:1” I’ve been running VR1 20w50 based upon recommendation of local speed shop, but recently was told that oil was too heavy. Thanks guys!That didn't tell us much.
I run 10/30 Valvoline Conventional and Rislone Zinc additive. I don't think you need 20/50. A 10/30 or 10/40 would be fine. Just make sure it has zinc (zddp) in it, usually 1000-1200ppm.Sorry guys I’m having technical difficulties here. Purchased matching #s Dart Swinger 340 4 years ago. Lots of documentation with car. Except for engine. Hand writ note saying “bored 30 over, hydraulic H cam. Purple bigger, compression ratio 10.5:1” I’ve been running VR1 20w50 based upon recommendation of local speed shop, but recently was told that oil was too heavy. Thanks guys!
Man, just run 10w30 in the thing like Chrysler recommended. This ain't rocket science. Simply make sure to run an oil with plenty of ZDDP or run an additive. I run 10w30 Lucas Hot Rod Oil in my 75 F250 and in my 64 Valiant. It already has 2400 PPM of zinc. That's all they need. No need for anything fancy.
My factory 1973 W200 360 93000 miles 60 cold and 45 hot at idle rebounds quickly to 60 hot.I’m gonna regret this.
what is the oil pressure cold, at start up? And hot, at idle?
My factory 1973 W200 360 93000 miles 60 cold and 45 hot at idle rebounds quickly to 60 hot.
20w50 during the summer and 10/40 during the winter since 1983.
Quite respectable with factory tolerances. Would probably also be just fine with 10-30, ‘cause you don’t need 45 psi at hot idle.
Interesting, I started my engine yesterday, about 35ish degrees , (not sure) . The oil presdsure was slower to come up than I`ve ever seen , and climbed way slower than I `ve ever seen. I let it get to operating temp on the gauge , and the pressure still dint come up to what it usually does. It has recently new 15w40 in it , from a main seal cap change .
I had a hair over .002 clearance when I put it together about 8ish yrs. ago . Hoping I didn't hurt the bearings , ether need warmer weather or lighter oil !
I need to get a pressure gauge installed. It’s all original with original Rally Dash. All gauges operational. Oil pressure gauge slightly over 1/2 way point on start up and 1/2 way consistently. I’m a purist and didn’t want to add gauges to the interior. I may tuck a small one under the dash.I’m gonna regret this.
what is the oil pressure cold, at start up? And hot, at idle?
I’ve been running Valvoline VR1 20w5020w-50 with zinc is fine for summer only. Been running it for decades... Main thing is quality oil and zinc. 30, 10w-30, 20w50 it's all good.
I’ve been running Valvoline VR1 20w50
(the VR1 with zinc in it)since I’ve had the car for the past 4 years. I run it spring, summer and a little in the fall on nice days here in Massachusetts. I change the oil at the end of every season, roughly every 1200-1500 miles.
I tend to agree, but, if his oil pressure isn’t spectacular with the 20-50 going to 10-30 might not be ideal.
I need to get a pressure gauge installed. It’s all original with original Rally Dash. All gauges operational. Oil pressure gauge slightly over 1/2 way point on start up and 1/2 way consistently. I’m a purist and didn’t want to add gauges to the interior. I may tuck a small one under the dash.