Righty, glad to see you got the oil dripper for the cam chain on, don't forget the oil slinger washer on the crank . . and eccentric for the fuel pump on the cam as you know . . .
318 LA rebuild after losing a valve seat
- Thread starter Righty Tighty
- Start date
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The only thing I changed was to remove the timing set and rotate the cam gear so that when installed, both gears lined up at 12. I'm going to look and see where the pistons are when the gears are both at 12 o'clock.
Thanks George, I did get the oil slinger and eccentric installed, I just didn't post pics. Another thing I did was drill an oiler hole in one of the cam thrust plate bolts, as I saw in another build thread here.
BTW, now I get the joke from post 118...
The only thing I changed was to remove the timing set and rotate the cam gear so that when installed, both gears lined up at 12. I'm going to look and see where the pistons are when the gears are both at 12 o'clock.
Thanks George, I did get the oil slinger and eccentric installed, I just didn't post pics. Another thing I did was drill an oiler hole in one of the cam thrust plate bolts, as I saw in another build thread here.
BTW, now I get the joke from post 118...
OK, this may be where your valve clearance problem lies.
You want to make sure you have #1 cylinder up at TDC on compression stroke, that is both valves fully closed . . Both cam lobes on that cylinder should be pointing down towards the oil pan.
Crank gear at 12 o'clock, cam gear at 12 o'clock, line them up with a straight edge across the cam gear down to the crank gear.
The big thing here is you have got to have #1 up on compression stroke on TDC while doing this.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
BTW, now I get the joke from post 118...
so what was it?
so what was it?
Not sure what the joke was, I earlier refered to post 118 for the piston that was at TDC .077 ths. down in the hole. I think most people got caught seeing Righty measuring the pistonat BDC in the hole. Lol . .
Yeah, that's what the joke was. I was measuring at BDC in the picture. I thought I needed BDC and TDC measurements.
Anyway, credit to nm9 for pointing out that the crank key wasn't visible when the gears were both straight up. That's where I screwed up. I turned the crank until the keyway was at 1:30 and installed the crank gear, boom - problem solved. I removed the checking springs and re-installed the springs I'll be using, then installed the checking rod. I slowly expanded the rod until zero lash, then measured and added .050 to account for preload. The result was 7.503 - strikingly close to the stock rod measurement at 7.500. Hmmm.....
I know a lot of you will say "I told you so," but I checked P-V clearance with the stock rods, and I measured .125. Plenty of room.
Also at the recommendation of nm9, I advanced the timing 4 degrees so I'll have a little more low end torque. This is going to be a street cruiser build, just looking for a reliable motor with a little bit of pep when I want it.
I'll be installing the heads and timing cover tomorrow, then prepping for one more shot of paint with hardener with everything assembled that'll be Chrysler Blue.
Anyway, credit to nm9 for pointing out that the crank key wasn't visible when the gears were both straight up. That's where I screwed up. I turned the crank until the keyway was at 1:30 and installed the crank gear, boom - problem solved. I removed the checking springs and re-installed the springs I'll be using, then installed the checking rod. I slowly expanded the rod until zero lash, then measured and added .050 to account for preload. The result was 7.503 - strikingly close to the stock rod measurement at 7.500. Hmmm.....
I know a lot of you will say "I told you so," but I checked P-V clearance with the stock rods, and I measured .125. Plenty of room.
Also at the recommendation of nm9, I advanced the timing 4 degrees so I'll have a little more low end torque. This is going to be a street cruiser build, just looking for a reliable motor with a little bit of pep when I want it.
I'll be installing the heads and timing cover tomorrow, then prepping for one more shot of paint with hardener with everything assembled that'll be Chrysler Blue.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
righteous
Just an update on the build. Things came together pretty quickly after the meticulous stages of crank, pistons, and valve train. I shot the block and heads once more with a final coat of Chrysler Blue, and everything else is just bolt-on-and-go (for the most part). The engine is ready to drop in, I just need to put the dash together.
So that's today - install the heater box, radio, instrument cluster, new speedo cable, and seats.
My question for the brain trust is this: what steps do I need to take when dropping the engine in, that might not be obvious? Right now it's dry, aside from assembly lube. I was going to add oil and prime it once it's in the car.
So that's today - install the heater box, radio, instrument cluster, new speedo cable, and seats.
My question for the brain trust is this: what steps do I need to take when dropping the engine in, that might not be obvious? Right now it's dry, aside from assembly lube. I was going to add oil and prime it once it's in the car.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Question: Were the intake gaskets metal or composition? Don't want a coolant leak inside and outside the engine. Most everyone here recommends using the composition intake manifold gaskets with an AL intake.
And did the cork end gaskets under the intake get clamped down well?
Snout bolt on crank damper torqued to 135 ft lbs?
Why do I think there is something missing from the front of the passenger side head in the 1st pix above? Like a freeze plug?? What is that circular 'thing' in that freeze plug hole?
And did the cork end gaskets under the intake get clamped down well?
Snout bolt on crank damper torqued to 135 ft lbs?
Why do I think there is something missing from the front of the passenger side head in the 1st pix above? Like a freeze plug?? What is that circular 'thing' in that freeze plug hole?
The gaskets are metal, and I torqued the intake to 35 ft lbs I wanna say. Will go back and double check my numbers. I might just swap them out for composite gaskets if that’s what is recommended.
The cork end gaskets received a healthy amount of RTV, especially in the corners, and were clamped nice and snug.
Yes, the snout bolt was torqued to 135 ft lbs after installing the damper with the correct tool. I didn’t feel comfy just banging it on with a hammer.
The freeze plug is there, that circular thing appears to be a sticker of some sort that was applied by the shop that did the reman. Tiny type says “warranty void if removed” or something to that effect.
So, I should go with the composite gaskets?
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Well, all I can say is that there was a thread here in the last few weeks where the OP said he had coolant running out of the front of the AL intake manifold... and he had used the metal kit gaskets. Felpro makes a composition set that is available in about ever auto parts box-store.
OK on the warranty sticker; I could not figure that out to save my life LOL
OK on the warranty sticker; I could not figure that out to save my life LOL
I didn’t even wait for your reply haha, just went straight to the parts store and ordered the composite set. I didn’t do all this work to “hope for the best.”
I suspect the sticker is some sort of heat sensitive sticker that indicates if the heads were run too hot, which would explain why they would want to see the sticker on a warranty claim. I work for the fire department, and we have similar stickers on our ladders that will change color when exposed to extreme heat.
I suspect the sticker is some sort of heat sensitive sticker that indicates if the heads were run too hot, which would explain why they would want to see the sticker on a warranty claim. I work for the fire department, and we have similar stickers on our ladders that will change color when exposed to extreme heat.
Here us a "Huge To Do" for you. Get yourself a tube of the Very High Temp Silicone Gasket maker, red or bronze in color. Use this high temp sealer to seal the 4 studs that go into the outside exhaust manifold threads in the heads, these holes go directly into the water jacket and need to be thread sealed.
Studs are 5/16 course that screw into head, and 5/16 fine thread that stick out for the manifold to bolt on. The rest of the exhaust manifold bolts are bolts.
Also instead of that cork gasket on the intake, people put a good bead of the black rtv gasket maker there and it will make its own gasket and seal good. Let it set for 2 hours after you torque it down, then come back with a razor knife and cut off the excess that is hanging out if you want to clean it up some.
Studs are 5/16 course that screw into head, and 5/16 fine thread that stick out for the manifold to bolt on. The rest of the exhaust manifold bolts are bolts.
Also instead of that cork gasket on the intake, people put a good bead of the black rtv gasket maker there and it will make its own gasket and seal good. Let it set for 2 hours after you torque it down, then come back with a razor knife and cut off the excess that is hanging out if you want to clean it up some.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
If the cork gaskets fit without being too tight or too loose, they work well too.
Might be easier to prime your engine out of the car. Would be good to have a friend come by and slowly hand crank turn the engjne over while you are running the priming drill that spins the oil pump.
This way it fills all the oil gallies and pumps up the lifters too. You will feel the drill grab good when it starts pumping the oil.
Then all primed up, can easily drop the distributor in while standing there. Then put the engine in the car.
This way it fills all the oil gallies and pumps up the lifters too. You will feel the drill grab good when it starts pumping the oil.
Then all primed up, can easily drop the distributor in while standing there. Then put the engine in the car.
Thanks George, I wouldn’t have thought to seal the exhaust manifold threads. In fact, when I swapped the manifolds for headers, I did not seal any threads. Who knows if that contributed to my overheating problems, I literally found about a dozen leaky points as I disassembled the engine.
The cork end gaskets seem to fit very nicely, I think I’ll go with them unless there’s a reason I shouldn’t.
Good to know about priming the engine outside of the car. I used the old distributor to make a priming tool. I think it’ll do the job.
The cork end gaskets seem to fit very nicely, I think I’ll go with them unless there’s a reason I shouldn’t.
Good to know about priming the engine outside of the car. I used the old distributor to make a priming tool. I think it’ll do the job.
Here is a picture of aluminum intake installed with composite intake gaskets and black rtv gasket maker at the front and rear of intake. Studs in heads are installed and sealed.
Also, can never seem to get the dry installed valve cover gaskets to seal leaking oil all over freshly painted engine.
I use a very light coat of black rtv sealer gasket maker on the top and bottoms of the valve cover gaskets, also a small coating on the head lip too as they are course cast and a bit rough.
If you ever need to get the valve cover gaskets off, spray them with brake parts cleaner a couple of times and let it soak in. It will loosen up the rtv sealer so you can easily get it off. Then reseal again upon reassembly.
Also, can never seem to get the dry installed valve cover gaskets to seal leaking oil all over freshly painted engine.
I use a very light coat of black rtv sealer gasket maker on the top and bottoms of the valve cover gaskets, also a small coating on the head lip too as they are course cast and a bit rough.
If you ever need to get the valve cover gaskets off, spray them with brake parts cleaner a couple of times and let it soak in. It will loosen up the rtv sealer so you can easily get it off. Then reseal again upon reassembly.
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Also: Water pump / Timing cover bolts going into the water jacket, threads need to be sealed too.
Here we use the thread sealers called Aviation Sealer or High Tack. Dry out the block, apply thread sealant to bolt threads run them in and out a few times, and get the goo into the threads in the block. Then put a final application on the threads and install the bolts.
By doing it this way and with these products you can take the bolts out later on if you need to change a bracket or install a new water pump, and the bolts will still seal. Provided you drain the level of the water down below the bolt holes.
Lower Right 2 bolts, and Upper Bottom 2 bolts, go into water jacket and need to be sealed.
Here we use the thread sealers called Aviation Sealer or High Tack. Dry out the block, apply thread sealant to bolt threads run them in and out a few times, and get the goo into the threads in the block. Then put a final application on the threads and install the bolts.
By doing it this way and with these products you can take the bolts out later on if you need to change a bracket or install a new water pump, and the bolts will still seal. Provided you drain the level of the water down below the bolt holes.
Lower Right 2 bolts, and Upper Bottom 2 bolts, go into water jacket and need to be sealed.
the old distributer wont work to prime with unless you did something to the shaft going down to the oil pump, it is interlocked with the cam gears. I bought my priming shaft from amazon quick and cheap.
I don’t understand how it won’t work. The shaft of the old distributor mates directly to the distributor gear and turns the cam. Am I missing something?
aren't you just trying to prime the oil pump before turning the motor over? there is a primer shaft that you use to do that, gets the oil moving before turning the motor over
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIZZGY/?tag=joeychgo-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIZZGY/?tag=joeychgo-20
Yes, but why can’t I use the old distributor?
because it will spin the cam, deletes the purpose of priming the oil if you are going to be spinning the internals anyway, might as well just crank it over with the starter
Because the dist. shaft goes into the intermediate shaft, which has a gear on it. The gear meshes with the cam gear, which turns the cam. The cam timing chain would have to turn the crankshaft, pistons and bearings. Cannot be done safely, if at all.
Remove the Dist. and intermediate shaft. Insert long hex priming tool into oil pump hex. Spin with a low torque drill till you feel resistance. This will fill the oil pump, filter, and passages. Rotating the crank 2 turns will get some oil up to the rockers. Rotating the crank slowly while watching the rockers will fill the rocker shafts.
Thanks for catching that! That’s exactly why I come here, I can’t tell you how many times forum users have saved my hide when I was about to go do something stupid.
I’ll go buy the tool now...
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