Battery Choices?

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Kent mosby

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I am currently assembling my 1973 scamp. The motor is 512 RB and Holley super sniper, hyperspark ignition. For now, the battery is going in the battery tray. On the run stand, I used a battery from a honda CRV. I need to get a new one. Funny that searching the boards I could not find options. What options are best, worst and ???? Thanks.
 
@yellow rose . I am running the denso alternator (60 amp) that I got brackets for from AR engineering. I currently have stock cables, What upgrades would be beneficial? Now is the time to change. This is a new motor that was broken in on a run stand but has fewer than 2 hours on it.
 
Kent mosby said:
I am currently assembling my 1973 scamp. The motor is 512 RB and Holley super sniper, hyperspark ignition. For now, the battery is going in the battery tray. On the run stand, I used a battery from a honda CRV. I need to get a new one. Funny that searching the boards I could not find options. What options are best, worst and ???? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Hello,
Installed from Walmart into customers 73 duster a year and half ago and still going strong.
Fit into stock tray.
Removed all decals and looks great.
410 ci, MSD, 2 aux cooling fans, holley elect pump.
And yes, Add all new battery cables and ends.
Has not failed yet.
Happy Mopar :)
Arron
IMG_7095.JPG
 
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Most automotive batteries made in America are manufactured by one of two companies: Johnson Controls or Exide Technologies. Interstate, DieHard, Optima, etc are all made by Johnson Controls. Wal-Mart batteries, Johnson Controls. At this point, it comes down to price and warranty.
Costco use to sell Kirkland batteries, which were very good and inexpensive. Now they sell Interstate. I took a Interstate battery back to them, and it cost me $3.00. No questions asked. From what I have heard Wal-Mart, and some of the chain stores (Autozone, Oreillys,etc) have great replacement warranties. I have been going with Costco, and their Interstate batteries.
 
Kent mosby said:
Holley super sniper,
Click to expand...
Is that a EFI? and is so, then there must be electric pumps.
Kent mosby said:
I currently have stock cables, What upgrades would be beneficial? Now is the time to change.
Click to expand...
If the electric loads have been changed, then the most important cables will be alternator output to the the distribution point(s). If that's a relay box or fuse box, or a junction, doesn't matter so much.

The denso alternator is also more like to provide a higher recharging current to the battery.
A larger battery is will have a lower percentage of its stored power depleted during start etc. So that should help reduce the recharge rates.
Group 24 was a common size on IIRC. Group 34 will also fit.

Good clean battery clamps and connections both pos and neg definately help.

Do beware that most brands have at least two lines of batteries. I know Dekka and Interstate do.
IIRC the better Interstate line is MP-Group size.
The better line has thicker plates and weighs a little more, but lasts longer.
 
I just got a Duracell battery from Sam's club, 3yr warranty and all was like 125 out the door. It was between that one and one from walmart and the Sam's club one had better warranty and more CCAs
 
I bought a Autozone cheapie Valuecraft type 24 for my 63 Belvedere for $99.
A one year battery that is now 5 years old and will not die.Got lucky I guess.
 
I ran Walmart Neverstart's in my tool truck. :BangHead::BangHead: Had nothing but trouble. I have gotten 8 years out of Interstates in the car.
 
The new cars have "idle shut down" and this require HD batteries that sound to be a hybrid of deep cycle and conventional batteries . Also super HD starters .
 
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