Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Evening all.

so worked down my list of things to check.

I replaced all the vacuum caps, there was one with a crack.

took ether and sprayed around the carb base, found the adapter plate was leaking between it and the intake, removed it all, took a wire wheel to the top of the intake and knocked all the page and rust off, torqued it down and then added a 3/4 inch open plenum spacer just to make sure the butterflies were not hitting anything, even though they didn’t appear to be. Secondaries are a bit stiff in movement but they do move.

relocated the choke wire to a full 12 V, it’s now opening and closing fully.

Also managed to run a remove starter via a 6 ft jumper wire to the starter so I move around the car and under the hood.

oil pressure is about 45 steady while cranking, climbs to 65 the few seconds it fires.

All that above helped me get the revs down from nearly 4K, however, I still can’t solve the fact it dies within a second or two of letting go of the key.

I put in a new ignition switch, and ballast resistor, no change.

Ran a direct wire to the coil from the battery, no change whatsoever there.

I turned down the electric pump down to 5 psi. Didn’t help or change anything.

It’s like it cuts the electrical power as soon as the starter is released.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Evening all.

so worked down my list of things to check.

I replaced all the vacuum caps, there was one with a crack.

took ether and sprayed around the carb base, found the adapter plate was leaking between it and the intake, removed it all, took a wire wheel to the top of the intake and knocked all the page and rust off, torqued it down and then added a 3/4 inch open plenum spacer just to make sure the butterflies were not hitting anything, even though they didn’t appear to be. Secondaries are a bit stiff in movement but they do move.

relocated the choke wire to a full 12 V, it’s now opening and closing fully.

Also managed to run a remove starter via a 6 ft jumper wire to the starter so I move around the car and under the hood.

oil pressure is about 45 steady while cranking, climbs to 65 the few seconds it fires.

All that above helped me get the revs down from nearly 4K, however, I still can’t solve the fact it dies within a second or two of letting go of the key.

I put in a new ignition switch, and ballast resistor, no change.

Ran a direct wire to the coil from the battery, no change whatsoever there.

I turned down the electric pump down to 5 psi. Didn’t help or change anything.

It’s like it cuts the electrical power as soon as the starter is released.
Click to expand...
Is there a ground between engine and body? Curious is all.
 
I would be monitoring voltage at coil,and run a tach on other side of coil.
Timing coming on and advancing it too far?
 
Start and run circuit are separate. Once the key is released, it switches over from power after the resistor to before. Resistor is likely bad if it dies after the key is released from start to run.

The run away idle is a different issue.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Is there a ground between engine and body? Curious is all.
Click to expand...
Yes, 3 actually. I ran two additional on memikes advice a few weeks ago. That’s in addition to the ground from the battery to the engine and the ground from the head to the frame
 
Tooljunkie said:
I would be monitoring voltage at coil,and run a tach on other side of coil.
Timing coming on and advancing it too far?
Click to expand...
I hooked a 12 volt test light to the positive side of the coil, it lights up bright while cranking, dies instantly once I let go of the starter button, with the key in the run location
 
Did a little social distancing tonight.... Dont mind my smartass daughter flippin the bird in most these puctures....she is a chip off the old block...lol

50085.jpeg


50083.jpeg


50081.jpeg
 
Oh, I have the ammeters cables wired together since I don’t have an ammeter in the car, could that be part of the problem?
 
dukeboy_318 said:
I hooked a 12 volt test light to the positive side of the coil, it lights up bright while cranking, dies instantly once I let go of the starter button, with the key in the run location
Click to expand...
You just confirmed it, ballast or run circuit is bad.
 
Run circuit. Shall i quote the broken record now?
Bulkhead connector!
Guess the jumper wire you tried was nfg...
 
We had a thunderstorm kick up this afternoon. Just some mild rumbling and then it started to hail. Pea sized stuff at first and then it quickly grew to 3/8” size. Was starting to get concerned and then it suddenly stopped.

Thank goodness for that. Within minutes it was nearly melted away. By the time I got a photo more than half of it was gone.

FF3AC93F-2B61-4CE4-BA78-6A9A11ECBB92.jpeg
 
Chris, run a wire from the Batt Plus to the Plus side on the coil. Please......other wise tough to trouble shoot any further.....That will eliminate all the wiring in the car.....It should run till you remove the hot wire.........And make sure to remove the hot wire when you are done trouble shooting it, it will kill the coil and batt if left on, like all night...
 
Mopar Tim said:
Chris, run a wire from the Batt Plus to the Plus side on the coil. Please......other wise tough to trouble shoot any further.....That will eliminate all the wiring in the car.....It should run till you remove the hot wire.........And make sure to remove the hot wire when you are done trouble shooting it, it will kill the coil and batt if left on, like all night...
Click to expand...
I did exactly that boss. It still won’t stay running
 
Mopar Tim said:
Chris, run a wire from the Batt Plus to the Plus side on the coil. Please......other wise tough to trouble shoot any further.....That will eliminate all the wiring in the car.....It should run till you remove the hot wire.........And make sure to remove the hot wire when you are done trouble shooting it, it will kill the coil and batt if left on, like all night...
Click to expand...
Been there done that. Coil puked out all the oil and points were burned. Glad Ray sent me some good points, so i had replacements.
 
Coil good? If it is, and dist is good, and you have it hot wired properly, then it is Fuel related......wonder if float got stuck closed?
 
Evening all. Long day at work. Gee I get to quarentine for 2 weeks when I get off the boat next week. If I get off the boat next week. Working in Louisiana.:BangHead::mad:
So guess I will be living in a tent for those 2 weeks.
 
Company is still sending contractors to the boat. 1 set we heard 3 different stories from on where the have been, another group came in the first 2 days we were back and they drove in from NOLA.:mob: thanks office types.
 
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