ValiantRacing
Well-Known Member
Anybody use these or have any info on them, are they any good?
Mopar Performance Roller Rockers
- Thread starter ValiantRacing
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PRH
Well-Known Member
Somebody has to go first......
xLURKxDOGx
"An angel fat, at satan's feast"
ValiantRacing
Well-Known Member
mopowers
Well-Known Member
So, are they just Proform rockers in black with a Mopar logo and twice the price?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I didn’t see the price, but I’d use them if the cost was reasonable. They are bushed which is one reason why they cost more. I think I’d look at a set of PRW stainless rockers too. You can get them in 1.6 ratio too.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
They are $400 at Summit. Meanwhile, the blue versions are $280. I'd bet they're the same rockers, but I could be wrong.
Exactly. Those are NOT Mopar Performance rockers. They are ProForm rockers with a license from Mopar to put their name on them. I do like how they are bushed instead of needle bearings.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Question is - why in the hell would Mopar want to license a shitty off-shore rocker? I guess it's all about the Benjamins?
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
are the blue ones bronze bushed? I think not
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And yeah, they are over 100 bucks more than the standard ProForm rockers on Summit. Same rocker, but blue without the Mopar logo. lol
Whoops, I take that back. The standard blue ProForm rockers have needle bearings. That's a big thumbs up for the black Mopar logo rockers in my book.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Looks like they're not bushed at all (good luck with that). Looks like the extra $120 buys you bronze bushings and a pretty Mopar logo.
The bronze bushings alone are worth the extra expense....at least to me. They make them for big block too so I bookmarked them.
Yep, definitely need to be bushed rockers, & I don't like needle roller rockers because if they come apart it's an expensive fix.
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
What is the reason everyone is wanting the bushings on a rocker arm that has an aluminum body?
Staying close to this price point, you could get DOVE rockers made in USA, aluminum body, but I don't think they have bushings. Mancini Racing is also selling their own brand name aluminum rocker arms, supposedly made by Harland Sharp but without any bushing or needle bearings. Both of these would be a lot like the old Crane gold and the Mopar blue that were made by Crane.
The blue Proform from post 13 is also modeled after the old Crane rockers, but the blue Proform used to come with a note saying it was not to be used over something like .480" or .500" lift at the valve. I forget the exact number, and i don't know if it was a strength or geometry reason for that note.
Staying close to this price point, you could get DOVE rockers made in USA, aluminum body, but I don't think they have bushings. Mancini Racing is also selling their own brand name aluminum rocker arms, supposedly made by Harland Sharp but without any bushing or needle bearings. Both of these would be a lot like the old Crane gold and the Mopar blue that were made by Crane.
The blue Proform from post 13 is also modeled after the old Crane rockers, but the blue Proform used to come with a note saying it was not to be used over something like .480" or .500" lift at the valve. I forget the exact number, and i don't know if it was a strength or geometry reason for that note.
gzig5
Well-Known Member
I was going to say that too. And the way the bushings are grooved will help distribute the oil film, similar to what the grooved shafts do.
Aluminum alone is in general a poor performer as a plain bearing material compared to bronze or other materials. You will never see a aluminum used to bush a steel part unless there was no other option or the person doing the work didn't know better. Will it work, maybe/probably. Is it a better choice than bronze? Absolutely not.
xLURKxDOGx
"An angel fat, at satan's feast"
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
Then why don't all aluminum pistons have bronze bushing inserts? Or aluminum connecting rod pin bores? Or main and rod bearings for that matter? That is why I question it.
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How many of you guys that don't like needle roller rockers have ever had a good roller rocker like Harland Sharp or Jesel come apart on you? Huh? How many? And if so was it the rockers fault or your poor installation?
Whoops, I forgot to add T&D to my list of good ones.
Whoops, I forgot to add T&D to my list of good ones.
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gzig5
Well-Known Member
Pistons are not a bearing fit tolerance in the cylinder bore, the rings are in hard contact. Can't answer the others, I've seen some that do and some that don't. I would put bronze in anything that wasn't getting regular tear down and inspection. I'm sure there are coatings that help too. It probably comes down to cost and required durability in most cases.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
I was referring to the hard chrome piston pin moving in limited sweeps inside the aluminum piston bore. Just like the aluminum rocker arm on a hard chrome shaft.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I’ve run unbushed Crane gold rockers with up to 340 pounds on the seat, close to 900 pounds over the nose, shifting at 8500 and never failed one. And that was with both W2 and W5 heads.
The bushings give little room for error if you don’t get the oil to the rockers. I prefer bushings and detest needle bearings on a reciprocating shaft, but an aluminum rocker without a bushing will work just fine.
ValiantRacing
Well-Known Member
I have 2 sets of PRW rockers, one is 1.5 ratio and comes in at 1.4, and a 1.6 that comes in at 1.4. Hopefully the Mopar ones are the right ratio.
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