Small block Trickflow heads and PRW rocker arms ???

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Also I can get the right side push rod centerd a lot better than the left side push rod. On a rocker pair.
 
yellow rose said:
Very true. All I could fit was 11/32 pushrods. So that’s what I used. When I do the W2 junker it’s getting at the least a 3/8-7/16 single taper pushrod. I’d rather do a double taper but I’ll see what happens.
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Was that the R Block set up that was supposed to start in January or February? LOL..
 
I am definitely running those shims, just none underneath the shafts.

I don't recall how mine wound up, but shimming them was a task. I had to be very careful with aligning the shaft hold downs because the free play was enough to cause trouble. When installing my shafts, I kept feeler gages between the rockers or hold downs as necessary while ensuring the rollers were centered.

Trying to remember, and I believe I wound up not using the thicker spacers between the rockers and hold downs. I wound up stacking washers/shim to get it right. The thicknesses wound up consistent, I just couldn't use the thicker ones typically found next to the hold downs. I think the hold downs they use are just a bit too wide.

If I can, I'll try to get a picture of what my shimming wound up like in the end.
 
Phreakish said:
I am definitely running those shims, just none underneath the shafts.

I don't recall how mine wound up, but shimming them was a task. I had to be very careful with aligning the shaft hold downs because the free play was enough to cause trouble. When installing my shafts, I kept feeler gages between the rockers or hold downs as necessary while ensuring the rollers were centered.

Trying to remember, and I believe I wound up not using the thicker spacers between the rockers and hold downs. I wound up stacking washers/shim to get it right. The thicknesses wound up consistent, I just couldn't use the thicker ones typically found next to the hold downs. I think the hold downs they use are just a bit too wide.

If I can, I'll try to get a picture of what my shimming wound up like in the end.
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A picture would be nice. Yes I agree I noticed the holes in the hold downs are bigger than the studs and they have some slop to them. I have 0.045 shims on each side of a rocker pair and if i remember i still had 0.042 side clearance. Only soposed to have 0.030 maximum. To me it seems like I might have to have the hold downs shaved and or the rocker arm spacers. Huges engines sells billet rocker arm holds down for I think $89 a set. I am going to call them monday and see what size the hole in there hold downs are.
 
mopar65 said:
I have a 5.9 magnum that I installed the new trickflow heads on. I am running a comp cams soild lifter. I have to use push rod oiling so I have AMC lifters and Smith Brothers push rods. Which are 3/8 x.083 wall thickness. As far as I can tell there is only a few rocker arm choices that allow oil through push rods
Comp only in 1.5/ PRW 1.5/1.6 and the new Harland sharp rockers 1.5/1.6. The instructions say to use the Harland sharp ones. But Frack man they are $922 a set on summit's website. It was recomend I use the PRW 1.6 roller rockers, which I bought. Well for the life of me I cant get the damn things set up right. If I shim the rockers to wear the roller wheel is centered on the valve, the damn push rods rub the heads at max lift, so then if I get the push rods centered in the cut out in the head, it puts the roller real close the the edge of the valve stim. But even getting the push rods centered in the cut out of the heads. At max lift the push rods are touching the heads at max lift. Trickflow says the heads are cut for 3/8 push rods. But I am not seeing how. Looks to me like the push rod holes in the heads need cut deeper and wider. But in you cut much more you will either be cutting into the valve cover rail or possible into the intake runner.
Very sorry for the long winded post, I am just vinting..i am not smart like all you guys on here and maybe this stuff is over my head. So I am looking for advice on what to do? I mean go down to a 5/16 push rod or bite the bullet and get the $$$ harland sharp rocker arm kit
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65 are you using the shaft type rocker or the peddle stool type discard this post as your running the shaft type. I use the Hughs rocker hold down studs with their tool steal ends . C cams Pro mag rollers
 
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yellow rose said:
Ok, this old man is having trouble tracking what’s happening here. So be patient with me.

You have the B3 Kit? If so, and you have it installed correctly it should move the rockers AWAY from the valve and towards the intake manifold.

When this happens, you need to look at what happens to the pushrod side of things when you move the shaft.

The horrible pushrod angle coming off the lifter gets even more exaggerated. As the lifter rises, it will swing the bottom of the pushrod around and it will hit the tunnel.

Since you have 1.6 rockers...well that adds to it. To get the ratio from 1.5 to 1.6, the pushrod cup is moved closer to the shaft. Again, look at what happens to pushrod geometry when you do that. You can’t really make the rocker much longer than it is on the valve side, so you move the cup in.

All that adds up to make the pushrod rub the head at the bottom of the pushrod tunnel. Rather than the pushrod moving straight up and down with the lifter, it actually moved up and out and down and in if I think rightly.

In any case, this is what happens, and it is a royal PITA. I hope the heads aren’t on for the final time. I’m hoping this is a pre-assembly dry run, because the only cure I know of is to grind out the pushrod tunnels until the pushrods no longer hit.

This is all based on my understanding your issue correctly.

EDIT: nothing wrong with the 3/8 pushrods. The bigger the better in almost every case, especially with the screwed up geometry small block Chryslers have.
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I hit the agree button ^^^^^^ , I had to clearance my heads 3 times before I got clearance, they do make a kick *** 5/16 pushrod that is real strong , but dont rememeber who makes it .
 
mopar65 said:
A picture would be nice. Yes I agree I noticed the holes in the hold downs are bigger than the studs and they have some slop to them. I have 0.045 shims on each side of a rocker pair and if i remember i still had 0.042 side clearance. Only soposed to have 0.030 maximum. To me it seems like I might have to have the hold downs shaved and or the rocker arm spacers. Huges engines sells billet rocker arm holds down for I think $89 a set. I am going to call them monday and see what size the hole in there hold downs are.
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If u have the hold downs shaved , hows that going to help , would only give more clearance ??
 
I have the Hughes rockers with the Hughes hold Downs and the Hughes shims. What a pain in the butt! Yes there's lots of side to side play. You set it all up shim it all up and it's different every time. Because of the play. I ended up doing it three times per side and getting it the best I could and it was still tight in some areas and loose and others. What I ended up having to do was tighten everything down and of course your checking the set that has no pressure on them to see if they have play so I would loosen one side of that and wedge a feeler gauge in there which moved some of the play in the hold down over and then retighten that hold down. until I got a little bit of play in each set... What a pain...
 
j par said:
Was that the R Block set up that was supposed to start in January or February? LOL..
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LOL. Yep, I’m WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY behind. That date was set before I decided to pull the junk engine, change the head gaskets, get the pushrods corrected, go to the dyno, change out the K member and the distributor machine is keeping me busy. The alligators are eating at my arse. I need to fix a distributor today, mill the choke off a Holley, and then convert it over to changeable brass and put a tune up in it. Plus, the £¥%*} lawn sprinklers won’t come on after they put the new roof on the well house so I have to sort that thing out today, or the wife says I have to pack my crap up and move in with you.
 
yellow rose said:
LOL. Yep, I’m WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY behind. That date was set before I decided to pull the junk engine, change the head gaskets, get the pushrods corrected, go to the dyno, change out the K member and the distributor machine is keeping me busy. The alligators are eating at my arse. I need to fix a distributor today, mill the choke off a Holley, and then convert it over to changeable brass and put a tune up in it. Plus, the £¥%*} lawn sprinklers won’t come on after they put the new roof on the well house so I have to sort that thing out today, or the wife says I have to pack my crap up and move in with you.
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MOVE IN WITH ME! NOOOOOOOOO!!!!
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FOR LORD'S SAKES GET THE SPRINKLER FIXED!.....
 
The budget Harland Sharp kit that Mancini sells seems to work extremely good right out of the box with trick Flows
 
Is it possible that Hughes had some correction In their rockers themselves?
 
B3422w5 said:
The budget Harland Sharp kit that Mancini sells seems to work extremely good right out of the box with trick Flows
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Got a link to them? Here are the ones trickflow says are to be used with a magnum block.
Screenshot_20200605-104715_Chrome.jpg
 
U can get shims in quite a few different thicknesses. On my Indy SR heads they have the rocker stands shaved a bit on both sides of it for clearance. I have also seen the rocker stands milled on the sides for clearance. Here. Kim​

BB1E7353-AD36-4A2D-B040-26C67D9B9D3F.jpeg
 
j par said:
Is it possible that Hughes had some correction In their rockers themselves?
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Im not sure. I’m sure Mike at B3 has a good idea what rocker TF used to develop their heads. Maybe they used an “average” rocker or maybe they use a specific brand. I do know they relocated the shafts so if the rocker is anywhere near to what TF designed for they need little if any correction.
 
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