Did i damage my 727

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MoparMark91

MoparMark91

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Hey guys so i finally went for a drive with the dart but something horribly went wrong. So to start off its a 71 dart with a 340 bored and stroked to 373 with a 727 tranny with 3k stall. So i installed the tci fast gate shifter(routing the cable was a *****) So i wanted to take it down the street and back to see how it does for a test run. So i get on the road it runs great plenty of power and torque runs great, then i make a u-turn and come back. Well i was about 100ft from my driveway doing about 25-30 and all of a sudden i felt something a shake in the front end and i felt through the shifter that something happened. i coasted into my driveway and shut it off. i looked underneath and it looks like the shifter cable moved and binded itself between a header tube and the engine and just got destroyed. Until i get a chance to jack it up and look at it more closely i think the cable stretched and moved and accidently threw it into park at around 25mph. My question is how can i tell if it damaged something in the tranny? Drop the pan and just look for debris? Also it still shifts good when i have my hand under the car and shift it manually? I
 
You may have broken the park pawl. I would pull the tail shaft, it can be done with trans in car.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
You may have broken the park pawl. I would pull the tail shaft, it can be done with trans in car.
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Okay that doesnt sound to bad but do the pawls break pretty easily? Also it can be accessed through the tailshaft? Sorry for dumb questions just dont know to much on trannies other than the basics really
 
If the cable is long enough like a b&m cable that comes with a shifter, I find it best to run the cable out the passenger side, then between the pan and torque convertor and up to the trans. If not, it’s a *****.
 
fklskv said:
If the cable is long enough like a b&m cable that comes with a shifter, I find it best to run the cable out the passenger side, then between the pan and torque convertor and up to the trans. If not, it’s a *****.
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I like that idea I'll run it that way then cause the other way just sucks I just really hope I didn't ruin my transmission
 
So you coasted into your driveway in what you think is the park position?
Does the car 'roll' as it now sits?
The 'cable bind' or movement would have had to move the selector through neutral, rev, to get to park.

I think you would know if it went into park while moving, It's a very f-in ugly noise.
 
If the cable is burnt the shifter will not move
 
It still rolls in neutral and the shifter would not move until I detached it the cable and the cable was melted and stuck/binded. I tried to move the cable and it didn't budge. The main thing that threw me off is how I got a massive front end shake that happened and then went away. It was in drive then the shake happened and I instantly tried putting it in neutral and coasted it into my driveway and shut it off
 
I have personally never seen the park pawl break but I would imagine if it was thrown in park at any reasonable speed its going to lock the rear tires and skid or snap off the pawl. The bigger tires you have the more chance something got damaged.
To pull the tailshaft you need to drop the crossmember and remove the mount. Put a jack under the pan so you can let the trans tilt down. Remove the tailshaft bolts and you will also have to remove a plate that is under the trans mount. Inside there is a clip that needs to be spread while sliding the housing off. The clip locks the output shaft bearing to the case.
Obviously you will need to remove the drive shaft and speedo cable/drive. Your going to loose some fluid so either drain it before or just put a pan to catch it.
You can check the park mech for proper operation without pulling anything.
 
I honestly don't think you hurt....pretty damn hard to hurt a 727....
Sort out your cable nd shifter nd resume. ..
 
70aarcuda said:
If the cable is burnt the shifter will not move
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70 Buster 340 said:
So you coasted into your driveway in what you think is the park position?
Does the car 'roll' as it now sits?
The 'cable bind' or movement would have had to move the selector through neutral, rev, to get to park.

I think you would know if it went into park while moving, It's a very f-in ugly noise.
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When the shake happened I couldn't hear **** cause of my exhaust being loud cause didn't realize
MoparMike1974 said:
I have personally never seen the park pawl break but I would imagine if it was thrown in park at any reasonable speed its going to lock the rear tires and skid or snap off the pawl. The bigger tires you have the more chance something got damaged.
To pull the tailshaft you need to drop the crossmember and remove the mount. Put a jack under the pan so you can let the trans tilt down. Remove the tailshaft bolts and you will also have to remove a plate that is under the trans mount. Inside there is a clip that needs to be spread while sliding the housing off. The clip locks the output shaft bearing to the case.
Obviously you will need to remove the drive shaft and speedo cable/drive. Your going to loose some fluid so either drain it before or just put a pan to catch it.
You can check the park mech for proper operation without pulling anything.
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Yeah I'll be inspecting it Monday when I'm off work and I'll report back
 
MrJLR said:
I honestly don't think you hurt....pretty damn hard to hurt a 727....
Sort out your cable nd shifter nd resume. ..
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That's what my buddy was saying that it's hard to hurt it and to do the same. Weird thing is I didn't have a tranny leak before this and then after I rolled it in driveway and shut it off I started getting a small leak at the rear of the pan. My buddy said it could of been the pressure inside the case? My plan of attack is drop pan inspect and replace with deep pan make sure everything good then figure out different route for the cable
 
you can get them in different lengths, so figure out a safe route before you buy the new one. if you still need to get close to the headers try some heat shielding
 
Don't know for sure but IIRC the parking pawl is designed to NOT engage at any real speed. It doesn't have time to fall into position but will make one hell of a rattle.
 
kursplat said:
you can get them in different lengths, so figure out a safe route before you buy the new one. if you still need to get close to the headers try some heat shielding
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I bought the heat sheath the last time but I think the problem was the routing and it needs to be secured better because the old one was melted and smashed
 
Dana67Dart said:
Don't know for sure but IIRC the parking pawl is designed to NOT engage at any real speed. It doesn't have time to fall into position but will make one hell of a rattle.
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Good information so I might be alright then but we'll see it's just really weird what caused the vibration and how it came and went away. Almost felt like something out of balance or tire maybe was hitting something? Hmm I just need to look and diagnose once I get home. One thing I hate is the headers are really close to the torsion bars as well but that's another issue
 
must have got crazy hot if it melted through the heat shielding
 
Shift the lever to park and see if the car rolls. If not ur probably good. Trail beast did a good write up on cables I think last year. Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
Shift the lever to park and see if the car rolls. If not ur probably good. Trail beast did a good write up on cables I think last year. Kim
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I will look for it because that's a big issue I just don't get how your supposed to route it like it shows in the instructions, it's crap
 
oldkimmer said:
Shift the lever to park and see if the car rolls. If not ur probably good. Trail beast did a good write up on cables I think last year. Kim
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Do u remember what the post was called at all?
 
MoparMark91 said:
I will look for it because that's a big issue I just don't get how your supposed to route it like it shows in the instructions, it's crap
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get about 12ft of some small wire rope or like product that will let you do some practice fitting. then you can see how long you need the new cable to be. they have eight, ten and twelve footers. if none of those are long enough, call B&M or try Art Carr
 
oldkimmer said:
Sorry no. If u know how to call him on the forum that will get his attention. Or message him. Kim
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I will message him but I think I'm going to try the idea of routing it to passenger side then down by pan then up and I'll make a bracket. The tci fast gate cables are different I think with the ends
 
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