Finally the decision has been made.

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nm9stheham said:
You need to add about .060" to the available compression to allow for some clearance to coil bind at max valve lift.

Spring rate is easy to figure:
  • Take the listed seated pressure and installed height and compare to the open pressure and that corresponding height
  • Subtract the seated pressure from open pressure
  • Subtract the open height from the seated height
  • Divide the difference in spring pressure by the difference in height
  • The result is spring rate in lb's/in
  • This applies for any 'straight rate' spring, i.e., a standard coil spring, including singles and duals, with or without dampers. (This does not apply to behives, which are progressive rate springs.)
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Yea I figured there was a clearance spec to figure in somewhere. Thanks for that info!
 
Cuprum-74 said:
Dartfreak,
This may or may not help you, I used Comp 995-16 springs on my "308" heads for my Lunati Voodoo cam.
COMP Cams Valve Springs 995-16

Granted this is a rollercammed 360 from 1990, so I'm using part #20200711 and have been for almost 4 years.
(I should've went with 20200712 now that I think about it, oh well)
Part #20200711 specs are as follows:
  • Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 270/279
  • Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 219/227
  • Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .515/.530
  • LSA/ICL: 112/106
  • Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
  • RPM Range: 1800-5800
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Thanks I was looking at those springs! Do they work with factory umbrella seals or did you have them cut for positive seals?
 
stumblinhorse said:
On a budget what I found was the comp 926 singles using the rest of the stock guides, retainers and locks, is "good enuf" for a pretty decent cam. All bets are off if you are going around over 6k rpms a bunch. But for a simple street motor I am going to run a howards .502/.525 on 926 springs with hughes 1.5 rockers. I think that should do just fine.
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Thank you I will look into them.
 
I may go ahead and just cut them down I dont think it will cost that much more and in the long run that may be something worth investing in.
 
From what I understand, which is not much. the jump is from single to dual that pushes you into machining and seals etc. That is why I am sticking to strong singles. I bought 2.02 J heads that I didn't want to have a bunch of work done to. Cheaper to pick up speed master AL head right now then mess with some stock 302s. Then you get everything you need to go as big as you want.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I have several times. Since I have to do everything on a budget, sometimes it's the only way.
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This 360 is probably gonna take me a while I have enough for the block now I'm gonna go ahead and get the machine work and the pistons done now. Get the short block assembled then save up for my valve train cam springs new valves etc. Hopefully by spring I will have saved up enough to get it finished. Lol I have 450 right now to work with. It's enough to ge the machine work done and buy the pistons but not the bearings so I will have to wait to assemble the bottom. I'm hoping and praying the crank dont need turned and I can use standard bearings
 
Cuprum-74 said:
Now here is what you might look into in the future. I sure am!
CHRYSLER 5.9L/360 Engine Kits & Rotating Assemblies - 4.000 in. Engine Stroke (in)

But I gotta be responsible, save up and pay off bills first.
Click to expand...

That is route I am going down. After I did all the math for a 318 vs 390 build. There wasn't a lot of $$$ difference. You can just slap in new slugs but if you are going through the work. You should have about 600-700 in machining just the block. To do it right. You should have it hot tanked and bore and honed, you should have it line honed as well and you should square the deck... around here that is $600 for all that. You can tack on another $50 or so and just have them do cam bearings and freeze plugs...
 
stumblinhorse said:
That is route I am going down. After I did all the math for a 318 vs 390 build. There wasn't a lot of $$$ difference. You can just slap in new slugs but if you are going through the work. You should have about 600-700 in machining just the block. To do it right. You should have it hot tanked and bore and honed, you should have it line honed as well and you should square the deck... around here that is $600 for all that. You can tack on another $50 or so and just have them do cam bearings and freeze plugs...
Click to expand...

Yeah, I estimated about $3000-3500 total (including the kit). I can do alot of the work so that helps save some.
 
At the advice of @Bodyperson I went and talked to the machinest in person about my engine build. He was very friendly and helpful he seemed impressed with my knowledge and understanding of what I'm doing. We talked for a while and discussed my build he said sounds like you got it all figured out that makes my job easy. Lol we talked a while about my cam selection and he did advise my to go one step lower on my cam. He said it will run a little better on the low end. He said the 703 will sound really good but he thinks the 220 duration cam will be better so I am gonna listen to him. So I'm going with this one

Screenshot_20181122-053907_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
dartfreak75 said:
At the advice of @Bodyperson I went and talked to the machinest in person about my engine build. He was very friendly and helpful he seemed impressed with my knowledge and understanding of what I'm doing. We talked for a while and discussed my build he said sounds like you got it all figured out that makes my job easy. Lol we talked a while about my cam selection and he did advise my to go one step lower on my cam. He said it will run a little better on the low end. He said the 703 will sound really good but he thinks the 220 duration cam will be better so I am gonna listen to him. So I'm going with this one

View attachment 1715255164
Click to expand...
One step smaller is better than going one step too big.
 
toolmanmike said:
One step smaller is better than going one step too big.
Click to expand...
That is exactly what he said. I showed him the card and he said he I'd like to see this one tick smaller (pointing and the @50 duration) so I pulled up the 701 he said I'd go up one tick from that one. So I showed him the the 702 he said that one is the winner in my book!
We also discussed the xe262h he said either or they both are good.
 
dartfreak75 said:
I found a .530 cutter for cheap I'm gonna do some research and make sure it is the right ones but I will order it and do it myself.
Click to expand...
Look up the kit # 10200703k. Its a complete package with springs retaners etc. Lookin at it myself for my build . 439 at Jegs. Tim
 
dartfreak75 said:
I found a .530 cutter for cheap I'm gonna do some research and make sure it is the right ones but I will order it and do it myself.
Click to expand...
dartfreak75 said:
That is exactly what he said. I showed him the card and he said he I'd like to see this one tick smaller (pointing and the @50 duration) so I pulled up the 701 he said I'd go up one tick from that one. So I showed him the the 702 he said that one is the winner in my book!
We also discussed the xe262h he said either or they both are good.
Click to expand...
I have the comp xe256h in a stock low compression 360 runs great but the difference is I have 318 heads on it currently chocking it down. Once I have my ported J’s on, I Bet the 262 or 268 comp or Lunati cam would compliment the engine a little more. My motor falls off around 4500/5000rpm it’s probably the heads more than the cam. Great power for a cruiser though, that 262 will get you another 500/1000rpm range but you have to consider at what rpm range are your driving the car. I don’t ever have to bring my car past 5,000rpm but it would be cool if I could. Those h116cp with a 262 or 268 I bet makes great power. Your engine builder sounds like he knows what your after. That’s a good signal. Good luck.
 
You will be much happier with the smaller cam.
I have the 703 in my duster, 340 with a 4-speed and 3.23 gears, it needs more gear.
 
sireland67 said:
You will be much happier with the smaller cam.
I have the 703 in my duster, 340 with a 4-speed and 3.23 gears, it needs more gear.
Click to expand...
Yea im going with the 702 per recommendation by the machinist. I think that will be a better choice especially since i have high gears right now.
 
doogievlg said:
Do not try to save money by sacrificing quality on the converter.
Click to expand...
The universally accepted rule of thumb seems to be that there here is no such thing as a good and cheap torque converter... It's definitely one component where you get what you pay for...
 
Wow its been 2 years since i formulated this plan. Im happy to say i just got my block and heads back from the machinist
Hopefully in then next day or two i will be able to get started on reassembling it.
 
i ran a 670 holley on my 340 it was enough for the street at the track could have used a bit more at the top end maybe a 750 would have helped a touch
 
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