jonn6464
1970 Duster
Install the plastic tabs and start working the glass into the channel.
I did not get a pic of it, but I found it much easier to use a small pair of vice grips to hold the tabs together while installing into the channel. You need both hands for that install and the tabs will pop out. Remove the vice grips when you get to the tabs.
Remember when I mentioned having patience? Well, this is where you need it. The mylar is VERY fragile. Go slow. You may need a small flat head to tuck the material up into the chrome piece, because it does shift and move as you go. I will admit that I destroyed a set of them and had to re-order another ($85 later). It is next to impossible to slide the glass into the channel without snagging and tearing the mylar somewhere, especially when it gets close to the plastic tabs. But, that doesn't mean it is ruined. The mylar pieces are much longer than you actually need. So, you can work a very easy repair.
Simply overlap another piece to where you had the tear (after you cut out the torn section). and install the plastic tabs again. When the glass is installed, it is tight. It is hard to see the overlap.
**IMPORTANT NOTE - You have to insert the bottom corner of the glass into the top of the chrome piece and slide it down. The channel at the top is wider, to accept the glass.**
You can just barely see the line where it overlaps.
To remove the glass from the frame, you have to drill out the rivets. I found these at the local hardware store. I drilled out the existing holes (where the rivets were) a bit bigger. It worked well, nice tight fit. Once again, patience is key. I used a slim punch to line up the holes.
All that was left was to install the vertical seal (not a DMT product), buff the little half moon head that attaches the latch to the glass and test fit in the car.
All in all, not too hard of a job. Should be 1-3 hours. Depending on if you do any polishing.
I did not get a pic of it, but I found it much easier to use a small pair of vice grips to hold the tabs together while installing into the channel. You need both hands for that install and the tabs will pop out. Remove the vice grips when you get to the tabs.
Remember when I mentioned having patience? Well, this is where you need it. The mylar is VERY fragile. Go slow. You may need a small flat head to tuck the material up into the chrome piece, because it does shift and move as you go. I will admit that I destroyed a set of them and had to re-order another ($85 later). It is next to impossible to slide the glass into the channel without snagging and tearing the mylar somewhere, especially when it gets close to the plastic tabs. But, that doesn't mean it is ruined. The mylar pieces are much longer than you actually need. So, you can work a very easy repair.
Simply overlap another piece to where you had the tear (after you cut out the torn section). and install the plastic tabs again. When the glass is installed, it is tight. It is hard to see the overlap.
**IMPORTANT NOTE - You have to insert the bottom corner of the glass into the top of the chrome piece and slide it down. The channel at the top is wider, to accept the glass.**
You can just barely see the line where it overlaps.
To remove the glass from the frame, you have to drill out the rivets. I found these at the local hardware store. I drilled out the existing holes (where the rivets were) a bit bigger. It worked well, nice tight fit. Once again, patience is key. I used a slim punch to line up the holes.
All that was left was to install the vertical seal (not a DMT product), buff the little half moon head that attaches the latch to the glass and test fit in the car.
All in all, not too hard of a job. Should be 1-3 hours. Depending on if you do any polishing.