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mopardude318 said:
What do you recommend. Bare, assembled? If bare, what valves, etc.
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Every builder I've talked too about these heads is buy them bare and use quality hardware. That goes for all of their heads be it Mopar, Ford and that other company. I bought mine bare and had them set up for my cam and build.

Maybe they are using better hardware now so it may be worth buying assembled.
 
mopardude318 said:
What do you recommend. Bare, assembled? If bare, what valves, etc.
Click to expand...
it really depends on what you're putting them on and what your expectations are. I bought complete heads and ran them basically out of the box. I paid $95 to have them looked at and they were pretty close to the specs I had already on my well done Factory heads. The only thing they had to do is just free lubricate the valve guides... So far they've ran flawless on my Stroker with a dual quad tunnel ram..
 
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dano said:
Every builder I've talked too about these heads is buy them bare and use quality hardware. That goes for all of their heads be it Mopar, Ford and that other company. I bought mine bare and had them set up for my cam and build.

Maybe they are using better hardware now so it may be worth buying assembled.
Click to expand...
Yeah before I but mine last year I called Don's over there on Stark and they said at least $800 to rebuild them as everything was wrong with them. The valve guides the seats all had to be replaced everything. They said $800...
And again I ran mine out of the box for the most part and everything's been fine for the last year or I should say all this summer... But again that's just been my personal experience..
 
^^^notice most builders don't make any money unless they do some work on them LOL
then call a head shop and they laugh and said they wish they could sell brand new heads that had to be rebuilt...
 
j par said:
it really depends on what you're putting them on and what your expectations are. I bought complete heads and ran them basically out of the box. I paid $95 to have them looked at and they were pretty close to the specs I had already on my well done Factory heads. The only thing they had to do is just free lubricate the valve guides... So far they've ran flawless on my Stroker with a dual quad tunnel ram..
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Did you get the complete CNC 190 heads or the 170 heads? Since I'm asking questions, maybe 50-60hp increase?
 
I ordered the $226 manifold for $135...
They're a must for a magnum swap...
LOL it's been in my cart for 3 months..
 
Sorry I have a stupid question they say pushrod oiling but do they have internal oil passages In them to run them on an older Pre-magnum block
 
They are a standard LA head...oil thru the heads into the shafts......
 
DentalDart said:
Did you get the complete CNC 190 heads or the 170 heads? Since I'm asking questions, maybe 50-60hp increase?
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I just got the non cnc'd heads...
I can't imagine not getting more horsepower with CNC heads with the correct cam...
I personally bought them because I wanted aluminum heads and I wanted them to be a little lighter and perform a little better. I wasn't looking to set the world on fire with Speedmaster heads... I did pay 820 when they had their 30% off sale about two months before they had the 40% off sale and they're down to 700..
Oh well I'm happy with them..
 
I really wonder if you’re playing with fire running these fully built heads right out of the box. And I’m sure they’re work, but for how long? I guess for a budget build, sure send it. But if you got money in your bottom end, I’d be afraid to bolt on cheap heads and run them hard, but that’s just me. You gotta ask yourself, do you feel lucky, well do ya? :). Bare castings built up with quality hardware sounds like the way to go with these.
 
I took a chance on SM's crank trigger setup yesterday for $125. Didn't know they sold them until it showed up in a Summit search. Wheel/brackets look like copies of the MSD that was selling for $310. I was likely going to modify the MSD version as it was, at worst i can imagine maybe replacing SM's magnets and pickup.

Grant
 
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