68 GT convertible project

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Right after I got my trans cooler mount finished, I read that these coolers shouldn't be installed with the fittings pointing down. Air will be trapped in the upper passages and decrease the effectiveness of the cooler. Recently I corrected the problem by flipping the assembly upside down. I had to buy some new fittings and redo the lines but it wasn't a big deal.

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Now the cooler is behind the bumper so it won't be in direct airflow from the grill. I don't think that's going to be an issue though.(the front spoiler I'm going to use should direct some air up to the cooler) I plan on running the fluid to the external cooler first, then to the radiator cooler. This setup will work out much nicer for running the cooler lines too. After getting the first arrangement finished, it was obvious that I didn't have an easy way of routing the PS cooler line around the lower radiator hose. Going on top of the hose would have gotten close to the fan and going under the hose would have been too low to the ground. Now I have both lines running to the DS. I just drilled one hole in the rad support for the second hose.
 
Got my valve covers basically done. I wanted to paint them black but that was a little boring. I looked online at pictures of custom covers to get some ideas. I found a couple pictures I liked...
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The first thing I did was take some scrap 1/4" thick aluminum and cut it into two 5/8" strips on the table saw. Once they were cut, I started smoothing the edges with a metal file to get rid of the saw marks. Once the sides were smooth, I rounded the ends and gave them a quick sanding. Here is what the rough pieces looked like laid on top of the covers.
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I really wanted a clean look without seeing any fasteners holding the aluminum strips on. I contacted 3M about using double sided tape. Unfortunately, they don't have any double sided tape that will hold up to 250 degrees +. I ended up settling for studs/nuts on the bottom side. I bought some 10-24 threaded rod and cut it into 3/4" long studs. I drilled and tapped the aluminum for the studs and will use lock nuts on the under side of the valve covers. Not ideal but if I use an all metal(not nylon) lock nut, I don't think they will come loose.

Next, I sanded with finer and finer paper and then started buffing. I'm not very good at buffing aluminum but I was able to get these looking decent. I used two different buffing compounds and wheels from Harbor Freight. Last weekend I did some paint tests on the valve covers. The covers must have been anodized because paint didn't want to stick unless I sanded/roughed up the coating. So, yesterday I sanded the covers and sprayed them with Eastwood Extreme Chassis black. I'm really happy with how these turned out. I think they look great!
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I didn't like how there was a large gap between the radiator and the rad support. The original radiator over hangs the inner lip and looks a lot nicer. I decided to make a simple filler strip for that area to take up the gap. It's a detail that I think will really set off the engine compartment.

I bought some more dimple dies on E-bay.(1/2", 3/4" and 1") I used the 1/2" dimple die to dimple the filler strip every 1 3/4". Then I used a jack handle as a guide to bend the ends down. I bent a scrap piece as a test using a piece of exhaust pipe but it was too large a diameter. The jack handle gave me a tighter bend that matches the curve of the radiators top tank. I was originally going to have the filler strip flush with the top of the rad support but I ended up liking better down lower. With it sitting lower, the dimples reflect on the side of the top tank. I still need to make some small angle brackets to install it to the rad support.

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Haven't been doing much with the car. I've been meaning to make a small trim ring for the steering column though. Went over to my father-in-laws house and he helped me with it this weekend.

As most of you know, the 68 steering column is smaller in diameter then the 70+ columns. When a factory Tuff Wheel adapter is used on a 69 and older column, the size difference is very noticeable and pretty unattractive. Last year at the Mopar Nat's, I saw a 68 Dart that had a custom made trim ring on the bottom of its steering wheel adapter. It helped transition between the large adapter and the smaller column. So, here is my version...

Here is what the Tuff Wheel adapter looks like on an older column. I had to clearance the inside of the adapter so it didn't rub on the outside of the column. Other then that, the adapter fits just fine. It looks pretty ugly the way it sits though.
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I started with a 5x5 piece of 1/2" aluminum. After cutting out the center hole on a mill and cutting off the corners(to minimize machining time), it was put in a lathe where the outside diameter was turned to the correct diameter.
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Once it was to size, the lathe was readjusted and a bevel was machined into the trim ring.
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Here is the rough cut trim ring installed on the adapter.
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I still need to do some hand sanding to finish the part but this is basically what it will look like. It really does a good job at making the adapter look like it was made for the earlier columns. IMO
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Working on the door GT emblems today. One emblem was in rough shape. I found a better one online to replace it. For now, I think I'll use the rough emblem on the custom trunk panels I'm working on. If I find another one in better shape, I can always replace it.

I basically just cleaned/polished each emblem to clean them up. Then I sprayed them with primer and satin black paint. Finally, I used an old sock dipped in lacquer thinner to wipe away the paint on the raised surfaces. Not perfect but they look much better.
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Right after I got my trans cooler mount finished, I read that these coolers shouldn't be installed with the fittings pointing down. Air will be trapped in the upper passages and decrease the effectiveness of the cooler. Recently I corrected the problem by flipping the assembly upside down. I had to buy some new fittings and redo the lines but it wasn't a big deal.

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Now the cooler is behind the bumper so it won't be in direct airflow from the grill. I don't think that's going to be an issue though.(the front spoiler I'm going to use should direct some air up to the cooler) I plan on running the fluid to the external cooler first, then to the radiator cooler. This setup will work out much nicer for running the cooler lines too. After getting the first arrangement finished, it was obvious that I didn't have an easy way of routing the PS cooler line around the lower radiator hose. Going on top of the hose would have gotten close to the fan and going under the hose would have been too low to the ground. Now I have both lines running to the DS. I just drilled one hole in the rad support for the second hose.
Looks much better after you fixed it with the 2 lines off to one side, plus it will work better.
 
I usually run my trans cooler lines just like that. Use bulkhead connector fittings at the radiator support, and then run the hard lines down the frame rail behind the steering box. Then I use steel braided hose to go from the hard lines over to the transmission fittings.
 
I've got stock trans lines hooked to the trans right now. I cut the lines off pretty much flush with the front of the K-member. Then I'll run braided line to the external cooler, then through the rad cooler before heading back to the trans.

A-body lines make a weird bend by the starter. They didn't leave enough room for the shift cable to clear. I ended up using 73 Challenger trans lines. They are shaped much nicer in that area and still clear the body.
 
Just a small project I did a few weeks ago.

Bought a reproduction horn cap last year but it was missing the silver paint ring on the inside. A little tape, a razor blade and some rallye wheel paint took care of that.
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The cap was still pretty boring looking so I wanted to add something to make it look more interesting. I thought maybe a Fratzog emblem would look good on there. I saw some B-body 1/4 panel roof emblems at the Mopar Nats that looked promising but they weren't in the best shape and asking prices were a little high. Then I remembered that I had an SE emblem sitting around from a car I used to own. This emblem had broken mounting pins and a broken corner but the Frazog looked like it was in good shape.
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So, I cut off the SE parts and sanded the edges leaving just the Fratzog section.
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I drilled a hole in the center for mounting and used a grinder to shape the back side so it fit the contour of the horn cap. Finally, I sprayed black paint in the recessed areas, on the back and on the sides. I think it looks better then the plain cap.
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I also did a quick little rendering of what I want the car to look like on my computers "Paint" program. I started with this picture of a 69. I took this picture at Carlisle a few years ago.
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I deleted the 69 side markers and added the 68's. I found a wheel design I liked in a google search and copied/pasted them onto the picture. Finally, I added a carbon fiber stripe on the rear. So, here is what I hope it looks like when done.
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I haven't posted anything on this for a long time. There hasn't been much to post. The car is still sitting in the garage and looks pretty much the same. I burned out and didn't work on it for quite awhile. I've started working on it again...doing some small jobs so it's ready to be assembled as soon as it gets painted. I got most of the stainless trim sanded and polished. I just have the small vertical stainless pieces on the door glass and 1/4 glass to polish. Everything else is done. That took a long time.

Previously I had purchased a headlight relay kit from member "crackedback". I just purchased a convertible top relay kit from him as well. I wasn't completely happy with how I had the headlight relays mounted so I redid it and added the convertible top fuse holder to the bottom of the battery tray. I made up a small mounting plate out of 20 gauge sheet metal. I put a few dimple died holes in it to add strength and added some rivnuts for easy attachment to the tray.
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The relays are almost completely hidden under the tray.
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I mounted the convertible top relays to the rear seat x-member by the top pump.
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I also got the plug wires cut to length and routed cleanly. With the Pertronix distributor the boots are extremely close to the wiper motor. I "think" it should be OK though. I made sure to set the timing at 15 degrees(with the 20 degree limiters in the distributor) before making the wires. I have the distributor turned to maximize the clearance at the wiper motor.
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I've been looking at the Layson's rear interior panels since mine are pretty rough. I'm probably going to suck it up, open the wallet and buy new ones. My chrome moldings are pitted and reproductions are $100. I decided to make my own replacements.

I started by milling a piece of aluminum with a ball mill. That gave me the concave shape I needed. Not pretty but you have to start somewhere.
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With the grooves machined, I cut the aluminum into strips and started sanding and sanding and sanding. Eventually, I got the pieces to the profile I needed and polished them. The finished product looks great. The only difference is that they are twice as thick as the originals. The originals are 1/8" thick at their thickest. Mine are 1/4". I need that extra thickness so I can drill/tap for mounting studs once I get the new panels.
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glad you're back at this. a break can be a good way to get back the enthusiasm
 
My most recent project was dealing with the alternator pulley. I'm running aluminum pulleys and brackets but no one makes and aluminum pulley and cover for a Denso alternator. The pulley looked very ugly and out of place.
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The pulley that came on the 65 amp Toyota unit that I'm using had three shallow holes in the face. Not sure what they are for but they looked like the perfect spot to mount a pulley cover. I started by drilling those holes deeper and tapped them for 1/4 x 20 thread. I bought a 1" thick piece of 3" diameter aluminum at the local metal yard. I made a pencil rubbing of the pulley so I could transfer the three mounting hole locations to the aluminum. I drilled and countersunk the holes for some stainless allen head bolts.
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I mounted the aluminum to the pulley with studs/nuts at first to make the initial cuts on the lathe.
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With the outside diameter machined concentric to the pulley, I unbolted it from the pulley, flipped it around and machined the recess in the center to clear the alternator shaft and attaching nut.
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I also machined an 1/8" lip so the aluminum would fit inside the pulley opening to keep it centered.
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With that done I mounted it back onto the pulley and started cutting the different angles I wanted.
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After sanding out the machining marks and polishing it, it really looks great. Now the alternator doesn't look out of place and matches the rest of the pulleys.
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Awesome detail. I especially love the hidden relay setup. I am planning on something similar. Under the batt tray seems like a good place.
 
One more project in the books...tach mount.

I wanted to add a tach to my Dart. This isn't a race car though so I don't need it to be huge and "in your face". I wanted it to be a little more subtle then ones you see mounted to the steering column or top of dash. I like the look of the factory console tachs but they are really expensive. Since I changed the gauges and radio faceplate to white, the factory black faced tach wouldn't look right anyway. I had an Autometer "in-dash" tach just sitting on the shelf from another project so I thought I might as well use it. So, I set out to make a tach mount that resembles the factory console tachs. I'm lucky to have a father-in-law with a lathe and a mill!

I picked up a 6" long piece of 3-1/2" solid aluminum round stock at the local metal shop. That piece of aluminum cost me $25. After measuring the "in-dash" tach, I made up a cardboard template to see how it would look and to make sure it would fit on the console. This picture shows the raw aluminum round stock, my template, the tach insert and what the factory console tach body looks like.
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I determined that I only needed to start with a 5" long piece, so after cutting an inch off I mounted the aluminum in the lathe and started hogging the inside out so the tach insert would fit. I drilled 3" into the center with a 1" drill bit to start with. Then used a few different tools to enlarge the hole little by little until the tach fit inside.
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With the tach fitting, the aluminum was turned around and I machined a taper on the back side to give the mount some shape.
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Once that was done, the aluminum was mounted in the mill so I could machine a "flat" on one side. That "flat" lets the tach sit at an angle once it's mounted to the console. During each of the machining steps I referenced the template I made to make sure everything was turning out right.
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I traced the shape of the "flat" onto some paper and transferred that to a piece of 1/2" aluminum to use as the base. I drilled three holes through the base and counter sunk them for some allen bolts. Then I drilled and tapped three holes in the tach mount so I could attach the base. Here's what the two piece look like together while sitting on a table.
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Then it was time to make sure it looked good and fit on the console. I was worried at first about if it would interfere with the aftermarket shifter I'm going to use. It's a very tight fit but both tach and shifter will work.
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Now that I knew it was going to fit, I had to make clearance for all the wiring. To locate where I needed to remove more material, I put some Play-doh in the bottom of the hole. Then I inserted the tach. The spade terminals on the back of the tach made impressions in the Play-doh.
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Once I had clearance for all the wiring, I drilled and tapped the base for a hollow 3/4" stud. Then all that was left was a lot of sanding and polishing. The finished product looks really good. Due to the size of the tach insert, it doesn't have the exact measurements of the factory tach but it does look very similar to the factory piece...that's what I was going for.
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So, this just cost me $25 and a lot of time. Most of my $25 ended up on the shop floor...
 
The car went to the body shop for paint on Saturday. Looking forward to getting it back home and put together.
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Here are a few pictures of the frame connectors I made. I got the idea from some guys over on an E-body site I'm on. This style connecter will still allow the brake and fuel lines to be installed as one piece. The connectors that weld to the floor pan won't allow that. These are made from 1/8" thick 1x2 rectangular tubing. Holes were drilled though every 6" or so and 1/8" thick round tubing welded inside. This gives the rectangular tubing a lot more strength. I cut holes in the frame so the tubing can be inserted inside.
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Looks really great. Like a factory install. I did something similar with 2x3 14 gage and overlapping on the outside of the rear framerail, but I have a steel roof for stiffness. Not as critical as a vert. I had to remove butchered in subframe connectors by a prev owner, and redo it. The fwd parts of my rear framerails were butchered from the prev install. Had to clean up, and cover up lol. Yours looks really slick. Nice clean install. Ditto on the drain holes. I will have to slot my rear floorpan when it goes in.
 
... This style connecter will still allow the brake and fuel lines to be installed as one piece. The connectors that weld to the floor pan won't allow that....

I used the US Cartool weld-to-the-floor connectors, and was able to route the one piece brake and fuel lines through them without an issue, as they have sections where there is a gap between the connector channel and the floor to allow room for them to pass through between the two parts.
 
I can't see how it's possible. The lines pass through a small hole in the torsion bar x-member. You'd need a very long slot along the connector to be able to get the end of the line started in the hole and then pushed through. Then that defeats the purpose of completely welding it to the floor. What am I not seeing?

I guess it doesn't matter at this point. These connectors cost me less than $30.
 
Yep. I agree. I bought the 2x3 rectangle stock 21 ft long. Made a fully boxed lower radiator support out of it, 2 subframe connectors out of it, and still have 8ft left. Spent about $35. Budar, mine will have that same pass through your talking about. I am also rerouting my parking brake cable with 2 new holes through the torsion bar crossmember to line the cable up inboard of the subframe connector to run right inline with the rear floorpan cable fairlead. Cable pix are how I routed it on my 67. Will be doing the same on the 69.

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Playing around with different looks for the hood inserts. The inserts I got with the car were badly repainted and pitted. I blasted them to remove the paint and chrome. I hand sanded the top lip and was able to get all the pits out. Surprisingly the pot metal actually polished up really nice. I sprayed a texture on the sides followed by some silver and clear. I painted inside the scoop opening the same color as the engine.

The insert base is chromed with the center painted black. The chrome has miniscule pits all over it so something needs to be done to make it presentable. I bought some cheap generic carbon fiber vinyl to do a test with. It looks cool from a distance but the vinyl doesn't conform to all the tight bends and lifts in the corners. Maybe a quality 3M vinyl would work better but I think now I'm just leaning towards painting them with wrinkle paint. I could conceivably still add some of the carbon fiber vinyl to the bottom but not wrap it around the corners. Then you'd see the vinyl through the insert openings.

If it doesn't end up looking cool, I'll just buy the reproductions and be done with it. You never know what might look cool until you try it.
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IMHO, to have a complimentary look the carbon fiber would need to be carried over on some other exterior parts and possibly interior parts.

otherwise something more neutral like black, or conv top color or stripe color.
 
I agree. I was thinking about a rear GTS stripe but in that CF vinyl. They make a razor tape that you can layout in the shape of the stripe. Then you install the vinyl over it. Finally, you pull the metal line off which cuts the vinyl.

More leaning toward wrinkle paint now. It would hide the small pits in the chrome. Basically trying to salvage these inserts. If it looks goofy, I'll buy new.
 
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